But that robs you from the nice ramping UI, and my current EDC has 4 or 7 modes instead of just 1 (runs on a BLF-A6 driver, with also a famous TK UI 
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1 Thank
Great review!
Do we know the bin of the SST20 4000K 95CRI? FA3 hopefully to eliminate green a lower levels?
That would be hard since they aren’t a thing that exists. The “rainbow” mode cycles colors.
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hmmm, you are correct! I thought u were mistaken. The white is missing! Start counting with red as number 1 and there are only 6 colors. Something is amiss, and I’m sure TK just let the video run, she didn’t exclude anything. Maybe there are only 6 colors.
TK?
I ordered a D4 sst20 4000K with uncoated lens from Hank and it has zero green tint.
Great to know, thank you!
That was a video of the rainbow setting. Maybe the rainbow setting doesn’t include the white(ish) color in its rotation. I agree, it would be nice to see what the white aux color looks like, though!
Wonder if he has a different bin in.
The sst20 4000K D4 I got from Hank a few months ago is very green at intermediate and low power levels. Looks fine on turbo though.
Right, I’ve heard or seen nothing about a “white” setting existing so it would be hard to see a picture or vid of it. I could just be dumb and/or blind though (maybe shining flashlights into my eye has caused blindspots 
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It looks like the aux LED’s are RGB and are mixed to yellow, cyan, purple, and white(ish)? The results from the GIF at least look very cool.
I know breathing and/or fading transitions are bad standby battery drain, but if you ever felt a desire to tinker with the aux LED programming further, you could experiment with putting such a feature on a timer like sunset mode. I’ve seem some really cool implementations of smooth color cycling.
That’s just an idle thought, though. I’m already really impressed as is.
Thank you so much for all your hard work. I love this UI. I recently got back into flashlights. Several years ago low med and high was as good as it got. When you added lightning and candle mode it blew my mind. I purchased two of these. Looking forward to them.
Thank you so much for all your hard work. I love this UI. I recently got back into flashlights. Several years ago low med and high was as good as it got. When you added lightning and candle mode it blew my mind. I purchased two of these. Looking forward to them.
No. Changing the ramp ceiling sets the double click from off ouput, but not the double click from on (turbo) output.
As far as I know, changing the turbo output requires a small code change.
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went back and found this from the OP:
Official Specs
Aux LEDs: Red, yellow, green, cyan, blue, magenta, rainbow aux LED options is selectable through config UI, as well as the voltage indication function.
agreed, on intl outdoor there’s no mention of a white, but it is mentioned a couple times in the OP. Guessing the pictures/video/gif shows there are only 6 colors, not 7.
If that’s the worst thing to pick at on the light, not too bad I’d say.
With the target market for these being giant flashlight nerds, I think the tint bins should be listed on the order page.
Off may be a Color too?
Blacker than Black. 
Like with Video.
Apologies for the long comment… lots of questions to answer.
—— memory ——
TBH, I find manual memory annoying. It means the brightness resets every time I turn the light off/on, instead of remembering where I was a moment ago. But it was requested a lot, so I added it.
Yes, I think so.
I’m thinking of maybe changing some button mappings at some point though. Like, maybe 5 clicks for config modes and then 4 clicks would be available for things like manual memory. Not sure. This isn’t likely to happen soon though.
Okay, that makes sense. Things started out that way, but a lot of people complained. So I changed it to not remember shortcut-moon and shortcut-turbo, and people in general seemed happier with it.
Basically, people mostly voted against “true memory”… so it was changed to something fancier. I don’t think anyone has asked to get the old method back before, but reverting it back to true memory is a pretty small code change, if you are able to reflash it.
—— reflashing ——
Yes. It’s literally the only way to flash firmware on this light. There’s a picture of it in the review.
A couple of Lexel’s earlier drivers didn’t allow reflashing without unsoldering anything, but the issue was limited to only his drivers, and he fixed it after I complained. But Emisar’s lights are completely unrelated to any of that.
Not yet. 
I’m really hoping someone will make these commercially available, but it hasn’t happened yet. I’m not sure why. Someone really needs to sell some reflashing kits.
—— configuration ——
The ceiling level is configurable, but double click while on goes to full turbo. To change that level, you’d need to modify the firmware.
On the Nichia 219 model though, turbo is limited to 75% power. This is to reduce the risk of the light damaging itself.
Yes. Go to the mode and brightness you want, turn off the light, then activate momentary mode. That’s the mode and brightness it’ll use during momentary.
The supported modes include ramps (smooth or stepped) and the entire “strobe” group.
—— aux LEDs ——
Originally it was:
- Purple: full
- Blue: nearly full
- Cyan: high
- Green: medium
- Yellow: low
- Red: very low
- Off: critical
… but Hank felt that was too complicated, and the color mixing wasn’t very good on the prototype, so he asked me to simplify it to just blue/green/red to match how the Meteor’s voltage display worked.
It’s not very white. It’s red+green+blue, or … kind of an ice blue. Ish. I’m not totally sure, since the resistors on mine are different than production lights, so my color balance is a bit different.
The animation shows the rainbow mode… which includes the first 6 colors but not “white”.
These are the “colors” available:
- red
- red+green (yellow)
- green
- green+blue (cyan)
- blue
- blue+red (purple)
- red+green+blue (white-ish)
- rainbow (cycles first 6 colors)
- voltage
Regardless, if you want a white aux LED mode, I’d recommend just using moon mode instead. It makes more light and uses less power.
Only one of the aux LED channels has PWM. The others would have to be emulated. This makes smooth color-mixing pretty impractical.
—— misc ——
Nope, the bezel threading changed.
The tailcap seems to be swappable though.
Ah. Yes, it has a lot of extras. OTOH, the only things people need to know to use it are: Click for on/off, hold to change brightness. Everything else is optional.
This light is the definition of a pocket rocket.
There are more safety features in this than the original D4, like setting a default ceiling level of only half power instead of full power… and muggle mode, for lending it to others. But I’d still recommend being careful with it. In particular, lock it if you’re going to carry it anywhere the button could get pressed.
The original D4 lockout function was 6 clicks, and then it blinked slowly to confirm. It took a few seconds to lock or unlock, and it was necessary to unlock the light to use it.
The D4V2 lockout function is 4 clicks, and the confirmation blinks are much faster. It now takes about 1 second total instead of a few. Additionally, it gives access to two low modes during lockout, so it doesn’t need to be unlocked for quick tasks.
Or a slight turn of the tailcap can lock it too.
To be clear, it’ll still get pretty hot in turbo mode before it settles on a sustainable level. People mostly have wanted to make sure turbo will run for at least a few seconds before ramping down, even if that means getting hot… so instead of making turbo step down after like 2 seconds, it stays there for a little while.
But in general, aside from that initial peak, it should stay at a pretty comfortable temperature.
That’s going to take a few hours to measure. I suppose I should do it though… charging up a cell now.
DEL made the driver. He’s not active on BLF any more, but he has made the drivers for several of the most popular lights around here. For example, the BLF GT driver is pretty fantastic.
You certainly aren’t wrong about the light activating too easily. I would prefer a recessed switch too.
Where I disagree is that I don’t think a recessed switch would make sufficient difference. My D4S has a recessed switch and it still gets turned on in my pocket occasionally. I have had pretty much every light I’ve ever carried do that at least a few times, which includes the FW3A, ZebraLight H600Fd, Fireflies E07, Thrunite TH30, and many others. The only lights I really trust never to do that are twist-on types. (And I never to get stuck using a modern UI with a twist-on switch!) Some switches are more prone to this problem than others, but with any light that really heats up, even once is a serious safety hazard.
So I have come to the conclusion that some form of lockout is necessary no matter what kind of switch is used. Given that, the lack of a recessed switch is a minor disadvantage, but not a critical one.
Just a different perspective.
I have a D4 v.1 with Nichias (and no screws) where one has desoldered but will light up a bit if I take off and replace the optic, for a moment. I have a replacement LED although removing the MCPCB and reflowing the existing ones may get it up and shining. I have a daunting task. I just don't want to put it away in a drawer. I've reached out for help to some here in the forum but any recommendations are welcomed!