(prototype) the GT Mini

Tried prying, but gave up.

Ok, I understand. Thanks for the reply. :beer:

You can also use a flat blade screw driver and try twisting around the bottom edge like this.

This way your only lifting. If you pry or lever the screwdriver your pushing down on the opposite side of the ring which defeats the purpose.

You’ll probably have to go in a circle or back and forth opposite sides lifting just a small amount each time.

/\ … Yeah, that is what I was ’trying to say’. :person_facepalming:

But Jasons picture & explanation detail it much better. :+1:

Especially with that cool red screwdriver!! :stuck_out_tongue:

Where can I get one of those Jason?? :innocent:

You might try diving in Crystal Lake.

Directions please… I am topping off the scuba tanks as I write. :wink:

This will be your scuba diving instructor...

Oh…. that Crystal Lake. :open_mouth:
Nope, no thanks… chinooker will have to take that one himself. :smiley:
Plus… I do not need an instructor. Especially not that one. :wink:

I had something more like this ‘Crystal Lake’ near Ouray, Colorado in mind. :+1:
.

My GT mini registers clicks only when pressed hard and about half the time. Tried rotating the rubber and it didn’t really help. Banggood refunded me a few months back so you can tick my name off the list. Is there anyway to fix it or do I have to replace the switch?

There’s no easy way to replace the switch since it’s an unusual design and soldered to the driver. You can try, though.

I managed to get mine working well again by letting the light run very hot a few times and then clicking the switch many times. No guarantees though…

Well right now there’s no led in it. I was planning to put a white flat in there but then thought what would be the point if the switch stops working. Is there any place I can buy a new driver?

Nealsgadgets. It is not listed but if you ask Neal he may get you one.

Anyone have throw numbers and/or beamshots with a dome on XP-L or even XM-L2? Looking for a further throwing “walk around” light (and willing to sacrifice throw to loose the pensil beam it has now with the SST-20).

The form factor is ideal [to me] for camping / hunting / hiking in heavily wooded area but the tight spot and minimal spill make it not good for that. I’d rather it be a usable light than a shelved mini thrower.

@TrueRMS, I’d recommend putting in an LH351D in for much more flood.

Second the motion on the LH351D, they trend towards a larger hot spot that looks clean, artifact free, and work great in a light like this! I like the 70 CRI W6 at 5000 K, it’s a soft white high powered emitter that never fails to impress me even ( or especially) in the lowest modes.

I actually just got done doing exactly that, went with a W6. It’s better, will definitely be more usable but still not what I was hoping for…

If I could get the same beam shape (albeit a lot less reach) as my FT03 that’d make it perfect. It’s [the FT03] hot spot to spill ratio is just perfect for the heavily wooded areas I frequently camp in but it’s to large to take on minimal backpacking trips and I don’t need quite that much lux 99% of the time.

I wish there was any 5050 led with a better tint (xm-L2 or SST-40 or 3v XHP50.2) and without the yellow corona and/or power ralated tint shift! Still, it’s WAY better for my needs than the CW sst-20 it had (back when I was going for pure performance / numbers)

Well, since you already have the floodiest 3535 3V LED, the other option would be to replace the smooth reflector with an OP reflector.

Problem being that we don’t have any measurements for the reflector.

Getlemen, I gotta say thanks to both of you for the recommendation yesterday! I wasn’t very impressed with it at 5m in my basement, sure it was better than the SST-20 but I didn’t think it’d be what I wanted IRL but when I took it out to the woods last night man did it change my mind. This is the light I needed for my use!

Glad we could help. :slight_smile: