What did you mod today?

More likely a problem with the driver or a bad reflow.

Thanks for the input. I swapped the SST-40 with an XM-L2 and all is well. I didn’t change anything else. It has me puzzled.

I would reflow the SST40 and try again. Chances are that you didn’t have a good enough thermal path and the emitter got toasty :slight_smile:

I burned a couple of SST-40’s a while back when I upgraded to dual BlueSwordM BeCu Gen 2 springs in the tail of a Sofirn Q8 and used 30Q’s to power them through the stock FET driver. One burned out really badly and filled the reflector/lens with smoke. The other just burned a little and had permanently reduced output after. Ironically, I was trying to calibrate the Thermal Protection in Narsil, so the light was in full blast Turbo mode, waiting for me to save it from the blistering heat with a simple button push that didn’t come in time. :smiling_imp:

Can you guys recommend me a razor (or other) blade for de-doming? The crappy ones i’m using need an overhaul and I have a lot of LH351D 5000K 90CRI left :slight_smile:

No Wilkinson specials around? Thin, flexible, just put a shim around the LED and slice it across like you’re in a deli slicing boloney.

These? Amazon.com

Yeh, nice and bendy.

In case it helps:

:+1:

Ha! And a Wilkinson blade, too. :laughing:

A microtome.

I finally threw my CULNM1 (Boost HL, I think) in my Z1 after I burned the 1mm2 white flat I put in the first time. It's a glorious pencil-beam.

I did have to ream out a 3535 centering ring I had that fit the Z1, and unfortunately it is a white centering ring. So, there's a funny-looking pale donut around the blindingly white square I've painted on my wall. I can't wait to get it outdoors but it's too late now.

On white centering rings I always do an Al Jolson.

It took me a minute, but I think I figured it out, Al Jolson did blackface. I hadn't thought about painting/Sharpie/whatever the centering ring, but I'm not too worried about it. Every time I open the Z1, a certain O-ring tries to attack me and more importantly the underside of the lens (it got greasy once, and I took great care in cleaning it). Besides, the donut ring is humorous to me.

The thing is awesome though. I can see the beam itself through the air in the right environment (kind of like my green laser, but of course less). I know it's running at ~4.94 Amps (13x0.380A 7135) but I've been able to run it for several minutes without adverse effects. And I'm not too worried about battery life with a 5500mAh Shockli. The thing is not practical at all, it's the pencil-est beam I've yet dealt with, and for flood, well, it's burning 5A for like 900 lumens or something, I don't remember exactly the output. But it's so fun. And it fits in a coat pocket, unlike my MF02 (though I'm sure the MF02 out-throws it). I want to take it downtown at night and paint squares on buildings :D

I've got a second one, so now I'm seriously considering modding the MF02. If I got the focus right, it would be disgusting. I'd need a new driver, though...

I got some Feather Double Edge razor blades. They did great, had no idea those were so flexible and different from single sided safety razors.

Sliced a bit of my finger just setting it down wrong, scary sharp and hard to safely handle!

Hence the difference between them and safety razors…

I finally rebuilt my fw3a with sw40 219b’s. It took a while to reflash the ATtiny85 chip to toymakers andruil firmware as I had to get a better ROIC clip.

I cannot tell the difference in color between my m43 sw45k 219b and sw40. Same luscious rosey tint.

So, what’s the difference between “toymakers andruil firmware” and the stock Anduril firmware that the light comes with?

FET limited to 50 or 75%, can’t recall which.

So the firmware he flashed is FET limited for the 219B?