KD (kaidomain): Deals and new products thread

My thought too: if you have your washer right, you may as well slice the dome with a razor blade and have a nice clean finish.

I've cut a few XHP50As, using a big 1mm copper plate with a hole in the middle, sliding the blade atop. That way I do not obtain a fully level cut, it ends up being a slope. I can do a couple cuts from each side and obtain an 0K to look at low hill. But I do not like that much.

Concerning washer and razor blade cut dedoming, it works but I need a washer with the right thickness. I know washers are precisely sorted by diameter, but are they by thickness? And then there is the cut which, with a washer on top, I may need to slide the blade at an angle.

With the above method I can hot glue a bunch of emitters over the table, adjust the milling depth once and make short work of 'em. If the dome surfaces end up a bit coarse, so be it.

I have a set of 4 washers for slicing the LH351D, from thick to thin, starting with the thickest to slice off the top of the dome, working my way to the thinnest one that slices just above the phosfor. The thinnest one was sanded from a slightly too thick washer to the correct thickness. The blade must be kept at a fixed angle when doing the last cut, to get the cut level.

It does require reflowing the led flat against the ledboard, or you end up cutting into the phosfor.

Yea you can buy washer in different thicknesses i personally use nylon washers when slicing. Its easier to slice straight if the LED is on a new MCPCB.

I had another idea you can buy thickness gauges and drill a hole in each thickness. These are supposed to be precision tools but when buying online be weary i wouldn’t relay on one to tell me proper bore thickness lol. We use these to gauge thickness in engine walls and stuff but it can be used a general guide any where you can’t fit a caliper. Like a spark plug gap.

They look like this but i am not sure if these are wide enough i got a set in my tap and die kit but its a bit small i have seen much wider ones.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Metric-13-Blades-Feeler-Guage-0-05mm-1mm-Thickness-Gage-Gap-Filler-Guage-for-Measurement-Tools/32843797044.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.37.86bd2fd52syOMZ&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10065_10068_10130_10547_319_10546_317_10548_10696_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10307_537_536_10131_10132_10133_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_53,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=a0928a2d-5b72-4e99-848e-94eb5ddbce84-5&algo_pvid=a0928a2d-5b72-4e99-848e-94eb5ddbce84

Mmm those gauge blades can be very handy to adjust milling bit height precisely. Thanks for pinpointing this everydaysurvivalgear. I made a search and found bigger sets for more or less the same money:

Guess I can stack the blades, so not much of a big deal choosing one set over another.

Doesn't it?

Cheers :-)

You can make your own with shim stock and a shim punch or see if you can find what you want in precision shim packs…Yahoo Search - Web Search;_ylt=AwrJ6ytXOA1dQ.cAR2tXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTE3aTNjYjR0BGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwM4BHZ0aWQDQTA2MDdfMQRzZWMDcmVsLWJvdA—?p=metric+shim+packs&ei=UTF-8&fp=1&fr2=rs-bottom%2Cp%3As%2Cv%3Aw%2Cm%3Aat-s&fr=yfp-t

I make my own having accsess to all kinds of shim stock (steel/plastic) and my Precision Brand Shim Punch.https://www.tequipment.net/Precision-Brand/40105/Punch-&-Die-Sets/?rrec=true

It’s also great for making many other things, like copper contacts,copper rings for spacers or driver adapters, glow vinyl dots, glow vinyl gaskets…

Another tool of my trade…

Hi BanL,

four months ago I got a 53mm dust cover for a flashlight that I measured to be 51mm instead. I sent an email with some fotos to you and was told they would pass them to the product support. I haven’t heard back anything since then. My order number was 2994 and I sent you the fotos on february 14th.

I ordered the dust cover with 53mm for my Cometa, but I couldn’t make it fit, even though it has been recommended somewhere here on BLF.

Does anyone know the MCU on this driver

The default UI looks useless, but the MCU looks like it could be an attiny85, so maybe it can be flashed with useful firmware.

That’s a no-go. The MCU is the 10-pin chip, probably a PIC. The larger 8-pin chip appears to be a FET.

Oh. Yea I was looking at the 8 pin chip. Well that’s a shame. Who would design a powerful driver like this to START on turbo?

Its not about driver design. Its namely about whoever decides which software goes into the MCU, and the reasons behind. Likely many of these drivers are mainly software implemented for some sort of generic market or generic abroad market. The mode spacing in that driver is terrible, too.

The Chinese, It use to be alot worse than it is now but thanks to several contributing members here on BLF it’s becoming rare. At least most of them are making the strobes and flashes hidden after many years of complaining about them in the main UI.

I always wonder why.

How come these Chinese software engineers can’t come up with good original UI ideas?

Simple and not very well R&D is cheap. Complex and well designed is expensive which has to be added to the cost of each driver. The more time the software developers spend on a UI the more it cost. We are just very fortunate to have members who do this without asking for a dime or very little money.
I couldn’t even image the cost on the hours it took to develop Anduril.
Just my opinion. :smiley:

No and @#$% no.

“Ask, and you will receive.”

The above quote refers to a manifestation technique, which in recap is entering a theta wave brainwave state of mind (actually easier than said) and then precisely sketching out whatever it is to be manifested.

But, did you ask? And what did you asked?

First of all we need to come up with a common goal. I think something can be done here, something sort of establishing a default for number of output modes and sequence order, preferred mode spacing, memory type and hidden strobe (if anything).

For example: 4 modes low to highest, 0.1%/5%/20%/100% mode spacing, off time memory, double tap strobe.

Off time memory definition: memorizes last used mode if disconnected from power more than x seconds. This can be pretty short, like 1 or 2 seconds, as usually a half tap to change mode lasts less than that.

By opening a thread where others can see and chip in, vendors included, and once the common goal is set the petition would be formulated. Once formulated people would enter into manifesting state and command/pray the request.

This actually works a lot better than you may think at first, no need to say this to those who know.

Because the driver designers are contracted and dont actually work for the flashlight company. Also the driver designer dont actually use the flashlight or any flashlights in general so they dont have a sense what a good UI should be like.

3V XHP50.2 DEDOMED

New dedomed leds available at KD :+1: :beer:
(3V & 6V XHP50)

But there’s an error in 3V offer: no field for choosing mcpcb size and thus impossible to add to cart.
Can we have it fixed? Please? :innocent:

Looks sliced and diced.
I’m impressed.

Ban could work on his picture quality. But the slice/dice job like it looks from the blurry images seems not great.

The flip chips are safer to slice as the bonding wires are hidden and you can go fairly low when slicing. Id recommend people give it a go themselves might be a good mod to start with. Get a washer and razor and try.