Try contacting him at this link using the PM (personal messaging) system for the forum.
Explain what happened and make sure to include you order number.
Message sent, thank you for assisting!
Pretty!
I emailed Neal two days ago, asking when my FW3C would be shipped as I paid for the expedited shipping. He just got back to me, asking whether I would like to wait for the Carclo optics or take one of the other two options. I chose a) as I plan on replacing the optics; he’s shipping tomorrow. That is superb customer service. Thanks, Neal!
My first impression (after I took apart the switch) what an annoying switch.. it squeeks, it doesn't click, I am overly unimpressed.
After taking it apart again and putting it back together 3 times, I think I have to live with this.
At least I found that if you press straight in the middle of the button its totally fine. If you slightly press from the side it squeeks, and annoys me.
Is it just my switch?
I watched some videos on Youtube, (maybe not enough) but they don't show this squeeking sound. Or maybe they just push it straight at the middle of the button.
I think some were under the impression that this switch would be either silent or near-silent with the behavior of a classic stainless steel switch movement.
There were conflicting views on whether pushing on the side/edge would create friction or not.
Since I do not have this light this information is only from what I read in this thread and across many youtube videos.
Mine doesn’t squeak, no matter where I push it. One edge is a little more quiet than the other edges (and center), but other than that it’s just a standard “click-click” when I push it. It’s not quiet, but I wouldn’t say it’s loud.
Hmm. it could just be mine then.... that's no fun.. pity
Some have switches that do that, some haven ’t. I believe the first batch of FW3A’s were fine, later batches have the squeeking thing necause of a slight design change. I have one of both.
I think they may have increased the speed on the machining tools or something, to try to keep up with demand… but that means less-smooth parts. I’ve seen some buttons which weren’t so smooth, and ended up with friction or a non-flat surface. And one person posted a pic where machining patterns were visible on the aluminum parts.
It seems somewhat uncommon though. Maybe it was just one batch, or just one machinist. I don’t know.
Same here, no squeak at all. Not completely silent but very quite… nothing close to loud.
These are my first two from first batch. Two more on the way, it remains to be seen about them.
What was the “slight design change” djozz??
I missed that…… :person_facepalming: . 
.
Edit: Looks like TK answered while I was typing.
[quote=teacher]
Same here, Not completely silent but very quite… nothing close to loud.
Same with my two from the first batch, really like the switch.
Same here. Mine are great on the two I have now…
I would not change a thing about them.
I sure hope so. I love mine from the first batch and I have more on the way.
No squeak at all on the switch of either of my first-run FW3As.
If yours is squeaking maybe you can fix it by disassembling the switch and apply some steel wool or fine sandpaper to smooth out the edges.
I received my FW3A today! great light. (but some how i received the Warm white version and not the SST-20 4000K)
Some questions, (as this topic is 12K posts long and would take forever to find) is there available the SST-20 4000K star with the LEDs on it to swap in) also did anyone do any amp load/draw testing using the “stepped mode” setting for each of the 7 modes on a full 30Q or VTC6 cell?
I could not do any tail cap amp draws due to not being able to turn the light on. I don’t think anyone has posted amp draws.
Someone will probably need to extend an led wire and measure there (making sure to apply pressure on the mcpcb for good heat transfer).
So noone can confirm the tint bin for the sst20?
You can measure Amp draw like this: 2800 Lumen Everyday Carry Flashlight. TLF, BLF, Luminitop FW3A - YouTube
One big lead from batt neg to external tube’s threading for the multimeter.
One smaller lead from the batt neg to the internal tube’s exposed end to simulate the switch.
I tried that, but it did not work. :weary:
I’ve got Matts video on my list to watch. Looks like his is the 3D and it pulled 12 amps in the first few seconds.