Ha! And a Wilkinson blade, too. 
I finally threw my CULNM1 (Boost HL, I think) in my Z1 after I burned the 1mm2 white flat I put in the first time. It's a glorious pencil-beam.
I did have to ream out a 3535 centering ring I had that fit the Z1, and unfortunately it is a white centering ring. So, there's a funny-looking pale donut around the blindingly white square I've painted on my wall. I can't wait to get it outdoors but it's too late now.
On white centering rings I always do an Al Jolson.
It took me a minute, but I think I figured it out, Al Jolson did blackface. I hadn't thought about painting/Sharpie/whatever the centering ring, but I'm not too worried about it. Every time I open the Z1, a certain O-ring tries to attack me and more importantly the underside of the lens (it got greasy once, and I took great care in cleaning it). Besides, the donut ring is humorous to me.
The thing is awesome though. I can see the beam itself through the air in the right environment (kind of like my green laser, but of course less). I know it's running at ~4.94 Amps (13x0.380A 7135) but I've been able to run it for several minutes without adverse effects. And I'm not too worried about battery life with a 5500mAh Shockli. The thing is not practical at all, it's the pencil-est beam I've yet dealt with, and for flood, well, it's burning 5A for like 900 lumens or something, I don't remember exactly the output. But it's so fun. And it fits in a coat pocket, unlike my MF02 (though I'm sure the MF02 out-throws it). I want to take it downtown at night and paint squares on buildings :D
I've got a second one, so now I'm seriously considering modding the MF02. If I got the focus right, it would be disgusting. I'd need a new driver, though...
I got some Feather Double Edge razor blades. They did great, had no idea those were so flexible and different from single sided safety razors.
Sliced a bit of my finger just setting it down wrong, scary sharp and hard to safely handle!
Hence the difference between them and safety razors…
I finally rebuilt my fw3a with sw40 219b’s. It took a while to reflash the ATtiny85 chip to toymakers andruil firmware as I had to get a better ROIC clip.
I cannot tell the difference in color between my m43 sw45k 219b and sw40. Same luscious rosey tint.
So, what’s the difference between “toymakers andruil firmware” and the stock Anduril firmware that the light comes with?
FET limited to 50 or 75%, can’t recall which.
So the firmware he flashed is FET limited for the 219B?
Right. Not really required if you use GA or similar battery but it’s available so why not
Cool. I put some below the BBL 3000K SST-20’s in my FW3A with a 10507 optic. It’s amazing…
How about a picture?
I’m betting these look very nice in a FW3A.
Must be getting quite hot though. 
[quote=trailhunter]
I finally rebuilt my fw3a with sw40 219b’s. It took a while to reflash the ATtiny85 chip to toymakers andruil firmware as I had to get a better ROIC clip.
I cannot tell the difference in color between my m43 sw45k 219b and sw40. Same luscious rosey tint.
Want more rosey goodness? The FW3A len’s is not the best…UCL lens on the Right
Got just over 600 lumens more in the FW4A with the UCL lens…over the Stock FW3A lens.
Hm. Should measure the difference at a regulated level. Any issue with the o ring or waterproofing you think?
I’ll take a few comparison shots vs my Convoy S3 4000K Luxeon V and post it soon 
It heats up a bit faster than the 7A XP-L HI’s that were in it but it’s hardly noticeable. I would probably have noticed a bigger difference if it had NW or CW emitters in stock form. The throw is about the same as the stock XP-L HI 10511 combo, but the spill is obviously not the same. So less lumens, but same throw, epic high CRI golden goodness. Great LED’s BlueSwordM!
Today i rebuilt a C8 with a 3V XHP50.2, and one of Lexel’s drivers and spring bypassed it.
but accidently dedomed it while trying to fit a gasket which should fit, but just barely did and the whole dome came off
Which was good actually, now the cree rainbow corona has gone and the tint is way better!
The built was not very neat, especially the 18 AWG wires did not fit very well with the reflector, so i had to file down the reflector. After hours of filing it still touched the wires….
I decided to add another gasket, which is not the best looking but good functioning.
now i have a roughly built hot rat-rod.
Nice, I’ve built multiple 3v xhp50.2 in c8 hosts. The 18g wire is a little tough getting those wires through but with fine tweezers, it makes it much easier.
What tailcap switch did you go with?
It’s just an insurance policy. If I accidentally add a vtc* battery, I dont run the risk of frying some relatively difficult to source emitters.
Also if I happen to sell it in the future, the insurance policy goes with the new owner