It’s just an insurance policy. If I accidentally add a vtc* battery, I dont run the risk of frying some relatively difficult to source emitters.
Also if I happen to sell it in the future, the insurance policy goes with the new owner 
Thanks! Luckily I’m all about runtime, so I mostly run NCR18650GA or 35E cells in my small lights…
OK…168/212…939/1102……2809/3107 stock FW3A Triple XP-L HI 1A but with a Carclo 507 from my smallest adapter which seats the FWA3 perfectly on my T/A Maukaka Tube.
But I just looked at my 3 stock len’s and all 3 are different? 2 are Purple one is Blue and one of the Purple has very little coating compared to the other…
So the 2 Purple len’s came out of my 3D GB lights and the Blue len’s came out of my XP-L HI 1A which makes sense since my 2 Nichia’s have the Blue AR lenses which are a bit better than the Purple from what I just seen.
Just a standard (blue lighted) one
It’s weird that the lenses have different coatings for the same light… but I’m not sure I’d normally notice, since I generally remove the AR coating from lenses. Ever since I found a reasonably quick way to do it, I’ve been un-coating all sorts of lenses.
(reasonably quick way = put a polishing cloth on a table, then rub the lens on the cloth for ~15 minutes)
@Toykeeper, have you ever tried denatured alcohol, acetone, concentrated sodium hydroxide, or even HCL to remove the coating?
I’ve had good success with sodium hydroxide for some, but others can’t be removed at all with that method.
I tried a couple types of paint thinner, nail polish remover, vinegar, laundry supplies, lens cleaner, etc… but none of it made any noticeable difference, even after soaking overnight. Eventually what worked was just rubbing the coating off.
Geez 10-15%+ this must be a pretty bad AR coating and a mediocre lens.
Any thoughts on how well the O ring seats with the smaller lens Kawi?
I ordered a lens from Kaidomain and FlashlightLens so when those arrive I will test them in my lights too (including tint).
I mic’d all 4 UCL len’s and used the (smallest) of the 4 at 22.61mm the spec is 22.61mm (+/- .127mm ) so about .0075” a side smaller, yes it sealed up, I filled the bezel with Sparkle window cleaner for about almost 2hrs, no ingress of liquid…YMMV…
is there a series of clicks I can do to confirm if I have your version firmware installed?
Some comparison shots between the FW3A 3000K SST-20 (BlueSwordM) 10507 and a Convoy S3 4000K Luxeon V. My phone doesn’t have the best camera but I set the white balance to 4000K and the other settings were the same for both lights on all pictures.
Luxeon V 4000k 70CRI beamshot
SST-20 95CRI 3000k
Luxeon V Beamshot 2
SST-20 3000k 95CRI
The difference in color reproduction is absolutely amazing, especially in terms of reds, in which it’s absolutely massive.
Yeah I’m really happy with these LED’s. Perfect for around the house! They play well with the 10507 optic.
For a friend who wanted a compact wow-thrower, and me not wanting to spend much time/money on it, I dug up a Revtronic MT20 from my flashlight junkyard. It ended up there because of the horrific low frequency PWM at low modes, the mediocre output and impossibility to swap out the driver easily.
The 20mm board was swapped for a led4power 3535 DTP board with a 1mm2 White Flat. In fact it was one of the boards still ready made with led already reflowed, surplus from the reflow comparison test that I recently did. The led has had 9 amps for a while in that test, so output/lifetime may not be optimal anymore.
It did need a little bit of adjustment: the reflector hole was reamed very minimally to 7mm diameter, then a standard XP-centerpiece did fit. The square hole in the centerpiece received (cut out with scalpel) new 3030-corners 45 degrees from the present 3535-corners (see picture). Strange enough the centerpiece did not need to be sanded thinner (which normally needs doing when going from a domed to undomed emitter), the best focus was achieved with the centerpiece at full thickness. I guess the stock XM-L2 was never focused correctly in this light.
So it was a quick under 1-hour mod and the stock Revtronic driver appears to feed the White Flat about 3.5A which should be good for about 85% of the maximum output of the White Flat. I measured 125 kcd which is respectable for a compact thrower.
So if you still have one of these lights around, or get one for 13.75 from Fasttech (FT has quite a collection of old stock btw), this is an easy host for the White Flat with a decent result. It does still have that PWM on low modes, but a thrower is not about low modes anyway.
Nice of you to do that. I’m starting to think cracked LED bases are like your artist signature
You were not supposed to notice that 
My eyes are so bad nowadays that I did not notice it myself, first saw it on the pic.
Took my dusty old Emisar D4 today and installed one of Lexel’s FET+6+1 drivers running Anduril. I then reflowed some below BBL SST-20 3000K 90CRI LED’s (that good stuff from BlueSwordM) … If this is what the D4 was like out the box then it wouldn’t have collected so much dust. Max ramp is set to max AMC regulated current. Awesome light!
Finished my rrt-01 triple today for a trip this weekend.
With a trimmed down crx glowring and a Lee zircon 808 warm amber 6 filter over the SW35 9080 leds.
Just a perfect light and gorgeous tint.
Andúril has no version number to blink out.
The only way to guess the age is to check for features.
You can use the commit log link from the manual.
Changes in Andúril: Commit log (instead a change log): https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlightfirmware/fsm/changes
Makes sense, thanks!