To Pete7874, C8’s are 18650 and tail switch. The FT03 is side switch and 26650 so you get longer run times and a totally different feel when using it. Things like battery check, fully configurable thermal stepdown, etc…
C8F used Sofirn’s ramping UI, FT03 uses tried and true NarsilM. Very different in feel and timings, etc…
Is that the Narsil or Anduril? I’ve still got stock firmware, but I know Zozz got Anduril working on it. I saw the post by TK about using the ROT66 firmware with PWM changes… might do that on the 6/2 ftw.
I got my light today, but im confused, is this light really meant to take 21700 batteries ? because my samsung 40T seems too big it sticks out a bit and i dont wanna compress the springs or so ? and u only got a tube for 18650 battery, but no tube for 21700 ? My efest and liitoakala 26650 fits perfect, it seems its made for 26650 and even the manual mentions 26650 and no 21700 ?.
for the price its just as good as mf02 but way less bulky…
Safer to use with 26650 as 21700 length varies with models. Never never ftighten a tailcap by force if you already heard over-compress sound created the spring (on either end).
For the past few days, I’ve occasionally been hearing a ‘ping’ sound, and today I determined that it came from my FT03 after I had played around with it. I realised that it’s the same sound that I hear when I tap the lens with my fingernail, so I was wondering whether it’s the result of the glass contracting when the light cools down. That led me to turn on the light in turbo mode for a bit longer than usual to try and replicate the effect, and alas - after about 20-30 seconds on turbo it made the same pinging sound! I shook the light (gently) and noticed that the lens rattles, so I unscrewed the bezel - which was very easy to do - to check whether the o-ring between lens and the bezel is missing. At first I thought that was indeed the case, but then I noticed the silicone o-ring inside the bezel.
Now I’m wondering whether this happens to other owners of the FT03, or whether I am dealing with some kind of manufacturing defect?
I’ve not got a problem with the sound per se, but I’m wondering whether it could be due to some inaccuracies in the manufacturing process that might affect the light’s waterproofness.
Ping is normal expansion, but you say you have a loose lens? Maybe tighten up the bezel more, but the rattle is usually the plastic insulator by the driver spring…remove battery tube a check by shaking, if it rattles, hold it and shake again… see if something else is ratteling?
Wow - I actually thought that I had already tightened the bezel to the max, but it turned out that I was able to give it another quarter turn or so, and now the rattling has become considerably less. It hasn’t disappeared completely, but in order to tighten the bezel even more I’d probably have to use the kind of grips that I’ve seen people use to remove the bezel from their BLF GT. But I guess it’s good enough now, especially after I’ve turned it on and off a few times, and I can no longer replicate the pinging sound of metal hitting glass (or vice versa)…
does 21700 even fit this light? i think they are too long tried with samsung 40t and vapcell neither i want try screw tailcap because battery sticks out too much, 26650 is the best to use anyways.