6. Batch "TA" 1S or 2S Bistro HD OTSM/NarsilM drivers 15-47.5mm size fit, S2+, C8, H03, MF01, MT03, Q8 Clicky or E-switch

I have also made a crowdfunding campaign for the new reflow oven as I will not make the drivers more expensive

Hi Lexel, I’d need a 30mm 1S driver for a tail-clicky host (Olight M22).
Bistro UI would be cool

sure there is the 24-30mm Bistro 1S possible to build

Can I get a quote by private message please?

I would like to buy (2) 20mm drivers for the Convoy M21A & Convoy S21A

I’m fairly comfortable with a soldering iron but have never “modded” a flashlight. What would I need to add Narsil to my Astrolux MF01?

First, you would need to swap in a new driver that was already setup with NarsilM. That’s pretty easy. The potential hard parts with the MF01 is if it’s not an early unit, it will probably be glued shut and very difficult to open. Secondly, the emitters will probably be set up at the wrong voltage requiring you to cut traces on the led board (mcpcb) and add jumper wires.

I would start by seeing if you can get the front bezel off your light.

You don’t list your location, but if your in Europe you might be able to ship it to Lexel for a conversion. Outside of Europe the shipping costs go way up.

BTW, do you know about the new MF01S It would be way cheaper to sell your current one and buy the new one since it already comes with many improvements. No NarsilM, but Anduril is based from it with nice ramping and user adjustable features.

Ooh the MF01S looks interesting! When is it supposed to ship? I just put my name on the interest list.

Hi. I am new here and dont understand much about these custom drivers.
Probably this is right place to get new driver for my Convoy C8+. I need driver capable of moon mode, some regulated modes and turbo. Was thinking about BLF A6 driver, but there are only two mode groups which doesnt suit me much. I need something like this - moon, 1x7135, 8x7138, turbo. Or 1x7135, 8x7135, turbo. All without memory. Can it be done an how does it will cost to ship to EU? Need it to be plug and play, so I can solder only two wires. Thanks.

To make an order simply PM me

Bistro drivers like C8 can be user programmed for different mode groups, no memory like you want
Spring and wires can be added for some extra fee
I ship from Germany

I also made an update on new driver wiring

Shipping has to go up as today the post increased the costs
Germany +0.1€
International +0.2€
tracking +1€ international

Just installed the Q8 driver running Anduril… It’s amazing! Thanks a lot Lexel!

Hi Lexel, I would like to buy an anduril driver for H03.Is that possible?

I have a e-switch wiring question. Does the - side of the switch HAVE to go to the - pad on the driver or will any - source work?

Any negative will work.

The little leg on the MCU that controls the switch has a small positive “potential” on it. This needs to touch ground to complete the circuit and signal the MCU. You can run the positive wire from this leg or pad to the switch and then the return wire can go to any ground point you want. It can be on the driver or the flashlight body. There are many negative points on the driver, maybe even a dedicated pad for it.

PS, this is an old thread. New questions should go to the new Batch 7 thread.

Thanks for the answer JasonWW, I’m still at the little bit of knowledge is dangerous stage.
I realize this is a old thread but didn’t want to ask in the new one in case it caused confusion.

One more question please, can the led - wire pick up on any available earth as well or must it attach to the driver?

Edit: Google tells me it must be attached to the driver.

LED- is critical to come from the driver. Most drivers pass the batt+ directly to LED+, then the LED- from the driver is the driver managed power source to control amps, PWM's, etc.

Are you talking about the switch led or the main led?

The main led negative has to go to a specific input point on the driver. This way the driver can control the brightness.

Here is a simple FET diagram. You can see that the FET controls the contact from led to ground.

If you are asking about the switch led, that can be attached to any ground point on driver or body. A lot of times it shares a ground wire with the switch negative. I’m refering to seperate switch boards that have leds built in like below.

The switch led has an output leg on the MCU that will go through a resistor either on the driver or the switch pcb then to the tiny led then to ground. At least on Lexels drivers. There are many ways switch leds can be wired up depending on the driver design and some even bypass the driver completely.

Only asking about the main led thanks.
I’m trying to set up a lexel+anduril driver in a DQG 18650 Tiny4 triple.

Hi, I know there is a new thread in regard to these drivers but I’m having problems with a recently installed driver from this batch. It’ a standard 17mm running Anduril flashed by Lexel.
The problem is it’s not responding to the button presses correctly. It will not switch on with a single click unless it was switched off when in the top half of the brightness range but always starts with a click and hold but jumps straight to half brightness. When set in step mood it will step down to low and then switches off. Turbo works as it should. Programming for the floor and ceiling levels doesn’t work. Soft lockout does.
When I soldered on the + terminal on the driver I had a bridge across to the center pin on one of the chips but I seen and removed that before start up, I’ve checked with my DMM and even though some pins look close there not touching.
Ant idea’s what I should do?
Thanks.