WOW, thank you for suggesting removing the metal switch cover guys. This makes the switch waaayyy harder to accidentally press and against my better judgement I think I can safely carry this light without locking it out now.
Its not just that the actuation force is higher now either, the switch with just the rubber boot sits much lower in the tail and is more shrouded from accidental clicks.
With the nubbin removed the switch still works but is even stiffer and that takes it a bit too far in that direction IMO, especially for multi-click actions.
This is exactly my experience. When pushing the light into my jean pocket (clipping in on) I’d use the ball/base of my hand to ‘seat’ it. This would result in switch activation 80% of the time if I wasn’t consciously avoiding it. All lockout solutions just became too much of a hassle to be practical. Like others have said, an A6/S2+ or other reverse clicky lights would win out due to this. I use my light probably 10-40 times a day for usually just seconds or minutes at a time. So ingress/egress and switch ergo / reliability is really a HUGE factor in a lights design.
This light still needs a deep carry clip and I need to get around to making that extended bezel for the single emitter/reflector. But right now I’m excited and relieved that two years of waiting and anticipation wasn’t wasted.
If it helps, the FW3A is designed to be compatible with a standard rubber boot. It makes the button easier to use while wearing gloves, but also harder to press by accident.
You may have to crank down the tailcap extra-hard though, to make it work. Or possibly thin out the base of the boot a little to reduce how much it needs to be squeezed to fit.
Thank you, TK! I prefer my polished to stay polished. : ) Since following this forum I have been motivated to buy the E07 (which I love) and the GT micro. I will order the FW3A soon, if I don’t find the FW3Ti posted sooner. : ) Thanks to you and all for bringing such gems to my attention!
“”Ordered one. Is the 219C really only 78% as bright at the Cree emitters? I wish I’d known.“”
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Yep. I’ve got several model torchs doubled up.
It IS an obvious amount of beam density and range variation…
BUT…
Unless I’m buying an actual “thrower”, I go the 219B or C every time.
The colour rendition is soo much sweeter and more natural.
That Grey is beautiful. Also my fav colour in the different MFG’s, body’s.
Along with the Copper. Which Ï”prefer “seasoned”. Weathered.
Like me.
My O-Light i3T copper is a lovely mix of copper to brass.
with a bright, deep coppertone clip on it.
The copper prototype still has a rough surface at a very small scale, even after doing a bit of polishing. It actually tends to pull gunk off the polishing cloth so it gets stuck in the microscopic pits in the metal, so I end up having to rub that gunk out.
The new model’s polished surface should be a lot easier to maintain.
Occasional hand polishing would maintain a polished look I suppose : ) and I may consider that. The polished copper does look sweet and may be worth the effort.
