Neal confirmed somewhere, facebook maybe? that it is only polished, not sealed.
The copper prototype still has a rough surface at a very small scale, even after doing a bit of polishing. It actually tends to pull gunk off the polishing cloth so it gets stuck in the microscopic pits in the metal, so I end up having to rub that gunk out.
The new model’s polished surface should be a lot easier to maintain.
Can you show how to do this step by step
Thanks
Occasional hand polishing would maintain a polished look I suppose : ) and I may consider that. The polished copper does look sweet and may be worth the effort.
tatasal …
Neato on the image effect.
I have a polished copper Sinner Triple light from years ago.
Looks absolutely fantastic when new. And when freshly polished with Blue Magic.
But after just 5 days of exposure to air, it looks tarnished… whether handled or not.
If you want a poser/shelf torch.
Why not take out of sealed pack when new.
and spray it with a coat of clear coat from car accessory dealers.
Or if out in air. Polish it up Then spray.
A fine coat of that will keep it all shiny.
I always thought that copper casing was so you could get
the natural varying shades of air caused variations?.
Mine are.
You live and learn hey.
A periodic wash with pure lemon juice ~ or a good soak in fresh fizzy Coca Cola will keep it shining …
Collinite paste car wax will keep a new Cu light shiny indefinitely.
So your logical and pratical sense should have suggest you to not turn off your flashlight before putting it back to your pocket.
80% of the time it would turn off the flashlight without effort.
:person_facepalming: How did I not recognize this as a value-added property! ? ! ugh…
Sorry
I meant the nubbin removal trick
Anyone know when the FW3T (Titanium) is coming out?
My SST-20 order arrived today. I opted for the “new” optic and spare lenses rather than waiting. The good news is it isn’t too green, but it’s certainly not rosy either. On most levels below turbo, Duv hovers around 0.0007, with extremely high CRI including R9. I can confirm the lenses being shipped are the standard FW3A lens I’ve tested previously. Swapping the optic to 10511 with a lens increases Duv a bit, so for example 8x7135 becomes 0.0015. It’s not overly green or anything and is a significant upgrade over the XP-L HI, but it may bother people who crave rosy tints.
I noticed the anodization is a slightly different shade, and it has the silver colour clip discussed earlier in the thread, but the most significant change is the switch. The travel is now much shorter and it can’t flop around like the original. I believe this change was made so it’s more recessed and isn’t as easy to mistakenly activate in a pocket. I hated the new switch when I first tried it because I was used to the old one, but it doesn’t bother me now.
Unfortunately I received 3 x SST-20 instead of the requested 2 x SST-20 and 1 x 219C, so I can’t test the 219C version. I will be posting a full write-up with colour and output measurements and photos later, but I thought everyone would like to see the preliminary results first.
Thanks for testing that Bob, here’s some more testing of the stock AR lens vs a replacement AR lens I bought (same as Kawi):
You got the 22.61mm x 1.90mm one right? How well does it fit compared to the stock lens? Looks like a nice upgrade for the SST-20 version in terms of tint.
Right. It seems to fit fine and everything screws down. Kawi said it was water tight and I’ll just take his word for it, lol.
I think you would be right about the SST-20. For the 219B I probably wouldn’t bother since, to me, they can be “too pink” sometimes.
It helps. I'll have to try it. I already have a couple boots with smaller "nubbins" on them, one came that way and one was modified to fit a light.
I’m anxiously waiting for this, too.
Will the copper head be sealed or raw, and fade by time?