No, it’s in the pocket, that is the problem (with this one) the driver is too small for the pocket. This shows how much I can rotate the driver in the pocket.
I don’t suppose you can hold the driver in a centered position while tightening the retaining ring? I’ve had to do that sometimes, especially on the tail PCB. Once it’s tightened in position though, it should stay pretty well.
These mods are unbelievable. really creative and crafty.
Oh it’s back together, centered and working fine, trashed the nichia’s and put some NW V2’s in it and trits. The pipe fitter at work LOVES IT! Wants another…. :+1:
I just inverted the position of the rubber cap + nubin below the metal cap and it started being more silent while clicking.
It didn’t fully overcome the somewhat delayed turn OFF after clicking but it also helped on that.
that almost needs a picture, did you flip the siliconcap+nubbin?, with the nubbin now touching the metal cap?
Just to be sure, the nubbin is this small black piece of plastic, right?
!Imgur: The magic of the Internet !:Imgur: The magic of the Internet
If so, yes, that is what I did 
I flipped the silicon cap and the nubbin is now touching the metal cap.
I found out that, at least on mine, the curve (dome) on the silicon cap needed to be pushed down to make pressure more evenly to avoid noise due to a single pressure point.
After trying several “normal” silicon buttons, with and without the original below them, it was that solution what helped.
Later I may try to take a photo if needed, as I don’t have the FW3A with me atm!
got it, no pic needed 
Nice 
Later I will try to capture de sound differences in video, just in case it helps anyone
Thanks mate, I was having trouble posting images this morning :zipper_mouth_face:
But that’s what I was referring to
Still waiting on mine, hopefully get the tracking soon. 
Delayed off is normal.
Hum, I guess I didn’t noticed it much before, then!
I started messing up with the switch/caps, and thought it was because of that (and I guess it happened for a while, as the metal “activator” on the switch seemed to recover slowlyer), but it is a “feature”, not an error of my light!
Thanks for clarifying!
You are welcome. TK has shortened the delay in newer versions.
Lens comparison from first batch FW3A vs No Lens (optic in place) vs UCL Lens. This is a modded 219B on the 2nd stepped level.
Stock AR Lens:
1260lux (239.4lm)
Yxy: 337.437599 0.364519 0.362489
CCT = 4372K (Duv –0.0018)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 91.8 [ R9 = 84.5 ]
R1 = 93.8 R2 = 92.4 R3 = 88.7 R4 = 92.1 R5 = 92.6 R6 = 87.6 R7 = 93.3
R8 = 93.9 R9 = 84.5 R10 = 80.7 R11 = 92.1 R12 = 71.8 R13 = 93.0 R14 = 93.8
No Lens:
1280lux (243.2lm)
Yxy: 291.757632 0.362148 0.358032
CCT = 4422K (Duv –0.0032)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 92.2 [ R9 = 88.3 ]
R1 = 94.9 R2 = 92.9 R3 = 88.5 R4 = 92.2 R5 = 93.6 R6 = 88.1 R7 = 93.1
R8 = 94.6 R9 = 88.3 R10 = 81.7 R11 = 92.4 R12 = 72.8 R13 = 93.9 R14 = 93.6
UCL Lens:
1290lux (245.1lm)
Yxy: 324.812067 0.363629 0.359307
CCT = 4381K (Duv –0.0031)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 92.2 [ R9 = 87.9 ]
R1 = 94.7 R2 = 92.8 R3 = 88.5 R4 = 92.1 R5 = 93.4 R6 = 88.0 R7 = 93.1
R8 = 94.5 R9 = 87.9 R10 = 81.6 R11 = 92.4 R12 = 72.8 R13 = 93.8 R14 = 93.6
So, I arrived home and made some experiences.
Here’s the first video with the normal configuration of the FW3A in the tailcap:
Here’s the video with the inverted silicone cap, and nubbin towards the metal cap, as mentioned above.
And this was the last thing i’ve done to make it a “silent-stealth-tactical-decent” switch 
with the help of these
I applied some white Scotch tape (adhesive) in the edges of the metal cap to avoid the metal “scratch” after clicking or pressing&hold. And inverted/flipped the silicon cap + nubbin
It is silent now! :innocent:
FW3A Tritanium switch button….
A WIP……
Nice.
The bezel was made to ideally accept a Convoy S21a reflector. Currently I’m using the same S2+ SMO, which is too small and looks silly. Also, I ran out of time machining the part and didn’t get a chamfer on the outer edge. I made this of 7075 in hopes that it’ll stand up to drops better than 6061. Lastly, I’m going to dip the new part in an NaOH bath to try and match the surface finish of the rest of the light that was stripped.
If anyone has any suggestions to reflectors or single optics in the 22-23mm range and very shallow (10-12mm) let me know please. I’m hoping Simon makes available the S21a reflectors like he does with most models but as of yet haven’t heard back
The FW1A is for real?
edit: just read your text. what a wonderful creation.