[Unboxing] FIREFLIES E01 21700 Flashlight

Will you put FF E01 on the FSM list?

or a full Anduril?

Thanks for this, mine is coming

Yes, I just got delayed while working out the details of the source code release. I need to merge the E01 branch and publish it.

It’s easy to reflash if you have the right pogo pin adapter, but difficult otherwise.

I merged everything and put a build online:

http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-06-01.ff-e01.hex

Fwiw I found my E01 pretty simple to flash with an soic clip.

Desolder led wires
Push led- wire down into hole
Use small poker tool to push out driver
Flip driver over in place and attach clip to flash.
You DON’T have to mess with the switch wires at all and no components on board interfere with the clip!

I built anduril for the PL47 target, the ROT66 target will work too but the ramp shape will be off. I need to update one of my E07’s back to an UTD pl47 build asap, (it’s ramp is visibly nonlinear after I loaded a ROT66 based hex onto it).

I just found this thread today. Fantastic pictures and great info. Thank you. :beer:

I have been thinking about getting one of these… I am now convinced I need to do it. :money_mouth_face:

I got the confirmation that the cross pattern is definitely an original Luminous devices, directly bought from the manufacturer

I see they removed the aux programming pad as it’s not needed to disconnect the aux board for flashing
the PL47 has it too but you cant get to it

It's funny because it looks just like an XM-L2, on a Cree XM-L board to boot.

Also Atmel MCUs changed the markings recently, first being thought it’s a Chinese fake, reason Microchip bought Atmel
Likely also production of new MCUs in China now so spotted first on Chinese drivers

Its a year now and still MCUs from Mouser show old markings probably will change too until they run out of stock

Who’s adapter and what pogo pins do we order? Links please?

[Oshpark] HQ ProgKey - Universal Driver Programming Key

I don’t get it.

They may be afraid of burning out the SST40, which can burn its bond wires around 9A. It hits max output around 6A iirc

I think this will be my next lantern. :person_facepalming:

Ordered the E01 and just received it the other day. Didn't have time to test it but it doesn't work, maybe someone can help figure what could be the problem?

(just fast play through the video since it's about 1 minute long)

  • upon battery insertion and tightening the tailcap, the main LED doesn't blink (I think in NarsilM & Anduril, there is usually a blink from the main LED)
  • the side button switch 4 mini-LEDs are always lit up, even when I click the button (on the ROT66, 2 LEDs will turn off upon clicking the button, I would suppose the E01 would work the same way, but it does not)
  • the side button being lit up indicates there is power, I tried to do multiple clicks -- 3 clicks, 4 clicks, 5 clicks, 6 clicks, 8 clicks, but nothing seems to happen, the side button indicator light stays lit all the time

what might be the issue? (I am reporting to the seller, but would like to know what might be the issue in case I'm doing something wrong)

What battery u using?

Battery discharge shud be no more than 10A or you could fry the emitter.

I used Liitokala Lii-40A 4000mAh 21700, not sure of the Amps rating of this battery.

Unfortunately, I couldn’t source any 10A 21700 battery in our country, and foreign stores do not ship batteries to my country (not economically anyway, higher than $20-$50 shipping from abroad)

(The other 21700 batteries I currently have are the Sofirn 4000mAh 21700 from Sofirn flashlights).

As there’s no flash on inserting the battery my guess would be either no power to the LED or a faulty LED.
I’ve just tried to replicate the problem on my E01 and can’t.

Just to be sure there are 2 things to try:
1- Before you put the battery in make sure the head is tightened properly onto the body, then insert the battery and tighten the tail cap to complete the connection. (It’s possible to loosen the head while still having a connection, while i can’t replicate your issue while doing this, if your battery is slightly too long for the head to tighten properly once the battery is inserted there’s the smallest of chances it’s having an effect.)
2- Try your Sofirn battery. The issue with potentially damaging the LED is only on full power, so as long as you don’t go into turbo you won’t have the potential to damage the LED. Certainly, just seeing if the LED flashes when the battery is inserted will not damage the LED, it doesn;’t flash at full power. (I think it flashes at the default mode of 350ma, which is the maximum output of the 7135 and the maximum regulated mode.)

If still nothing i’d say it’s an LED/power to LED issue.

Edit: Forgot to say, all 4 switch LEDS are constantly lit so only tell you when the battery is connected, they’re no indication of what the driver’s doing.

It looks like the main LED is broken or disconnected.

The button LEDs are hardwired to power, so they’re on whenever a battery is inserted. They don’t respond to anything else. It’s not like the other FF products, which can blink.