I merged everything and put a build online:
http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-06-01.ff-e01.hex
Fwiw I found my E01 pretty simple to flash with an soic clip.
Desolder led wires
Push led- wire down into hole
Use small poker tool to push out driver
Flip driver over in place and attach clip to flash.
You DON’T have to mess with the switch wires at all and no components on board interfere with the clip!
I built anduril for the PL47 target, the ROT66 target will work too but the ramp shape will be off. I need to update one of my E07’s back to an UTD pl47 build asap, (it’s ramp is visibly nonlinear after I loaded a ROT66 based hex onto it).
I just found this thread today. Fantastic pictures and great info. Thank you. 
I have been thinking about getting one of these… I am now convinced I need to do it. :money_mouth_face:
I got the confirmation that the cross pattern is definitely an original Luminous devices, directly bought from the manufacturer
I see they removed the aux programming pad as it’s not needed to disconnect the aux board for flashing
the PL47 has it too but you cant get to it
It's funny because it looks just like an XM-L2, on a Cree XM-L board to boot.
Also Atmel MCUs changed the markings recently, first being thought it’s a Chinese fake, reason Microchip bought Atmel
Likely also production of new MCUs in China now so spotted first on Chinese drivers
Its a year now and still MCUs from Mouser show old markings probably will change too until they run out of stock
Who’s adapter and what pogo pins do we order? Links please?
I don’t get it.
They may be afraid of burning out the SST40, which can burn its bond wires around 9A. It hits max output around 6A iirc
I think this will be my next lantern. 
Ordered the E01 and just received it the other day. Didn't have time to test it but it doesn't work, maybe someone can help figure what could be the problem?
(just fast play through the video since it's about 1 minute long)
- upon battery insertion and tightening the tailcap, the main LED doesn't blink (I think in NarsilM & Anduril, there is usually a blink from the main LED)
- the side button switch 4 mini-LEDs are always lit up, even when I click the button (on the ROT66, 2 LEDs will turn off upon clicking the button, I would suppose the E01 would work the same way, but it does not)
- the side button being lit up indicates there is power, I tried to do multiple clicks -- 3 clicks, 4 clicks, 5 clicks, 6 clicks, 8 clicks, but nothing seems to happen, the side button indicator light stays lit all the time
what might be the issue? (I am reporting to the seller, but would like to know what might be the issue in case I'm doing something wrong)
What battery u using?
Battery discharge shud be no more than 10A or you could fry the emitter.
I used Liitokala Lii-40A 4000mAh 21700, not sure of the Amps rating of this battery.
Unfortunately, I couldn’t source any 10A 21700 battery in our country, and foreign stores do not ship batteries to my country (not economically anyway, higher than $20-$50 shipping from abroad)
(The other 21700 batteries I currently have are the Sofirn 4000mAh 21700 from Sofirn flashlights).
As there’s no flash on inserting the battery my guess would be either no power to the LED or a faulty LED.
I’ve just tried to replicate the problem on my E01 and can’t.
Just to be sure there are 2 things to try:
1- Before you put the battery in make sure the head is tightened properly onto the body, then insert the battery and tighten the tail cap to complete the connection. (It’s possible to loosen the head while still having a connection, while i can’t replicate your issue while doing this, if your battery is slightly too long for the head to tighten properly once the battery is inserted there’s the smallest of chances it’s having an effect.)
2- Try your Sofirn battery. The issue with potentially damaging the LED is only on full power, so as long as you don’t go into turbo you won’t have the potential to damage the LED. Certainly, just seeing if the LED flashes when the battery is inserted will not damage the LED, it doesn;’t flash at full power. (I think it flashes at the default mode of 350ma, which is the maximum output of the 7135 and the maximum regulated mode.)
If still nothing i’d say it’s an LED/power to LED issue.
Edit: Forgot to say, all 4 switch LEDS are constantly lit so only tell you when the battery is connected, they’re no indication of what the driver’s doing.
It looks like the main LED is broken or disconnected.
The button LEDs are hardwired to power, so they’re on whenever a battery is inserted. They don’t respond to anything else. It’s not like the other FF products, which can blink.
Hi,
I just bought a fireflies e01 and a ffe07.
It was broken and they are sending me a new head for free.
In the meantime I’ve realised it’s not compatible with my 21700 batteries because they are 30a and this driver has a maximum of 10a. I have some old 18650 batteries, but I plan on using them for bikepacking (one for me one for my girlfriend) and weight matters, so I would like to carry only the 21700 30a ones and I would like both flashlights to be compatible with them.
I’ve already taken it apart and the driver is 24mm in diameter.
Which driver could I use with the same LED (I already bought a replacement) that fits in, is compatible with the side switch and can handle the 30a batteries?
About the modes, I like the anduril full version from the e07. It would be cool to have something similar
I’m definitely getting the feeling that I am the odd one out but: are there any plans to make a Ti/Cu version? It’s a question of personal taste (of course) but I think the E01 is the prettiest of them all. Plus I am not a believer in multi-led lights. And last but no least, I’m (a bit) colorblind so I’m not advocating to change anything else but the material of the shell.
That’s not really how it works. It’s fine if the battery’s maximum sustained amp rating is higher than the amount of power the device actually wants to use. It doesn’t push 30 Amps through anything it’s used in… the device pulls whatever power it needs.
This is an over-simplification, but in general I wouldn’t worry about the battery’s amp specs being too high.
It can be reflashed if you have the right adapter.