FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

So we really need a stainless bezel for this thing. Anodizing leaves a bit to be desired. Also sign me up for an 18350 tube and clip!

There is the titanium and possibly a stainless steel version in the works. Perhaps, Lumintop could be persuaded to sell extra bezels as spare/replacement parts.

Good thinking there, friend!

I’m about to make my next bezel out of SS, but would definitely buy one if available.

It looks like you gutted a Novatac, pulled the driver and optic from the FW3A, put those in the Novatac with the retaining ring, and added a copper sleeve to replace the spring. Is that correct? What about the switch?

For the users waiting/wanting to order the Nichia variant, they are apparently back in stock:

Until yesterday they were not available, now they can be added to the cart.

I did this: FW3A mod thread. Post yours! - #723 by MascaratumB

It solved my problem. The switch doesn’t make any noise now :+1:

Received my SST-20 FW3A today. Tint looks really good, I’ll change the optic to one with trits from azhu.
What I don’t like is the switch. It has less travel and is very easy to actuate. The switch of the first batch was on point for my taste. I compared them: It seems like the wall of the new switch housing is thicker on the tail side which makes the stainless steel button stick out less and gives it less travel. I didn’t spot any other differences. It’s way too easy to click for my taste.

Oh, great thanks. I will take my apart too.

I concur.

Switch on the SST-20 version is way too easy to activate. Problem appears to be thicker material on the tailcap housing which reduces travel distance of the switch. This makes the switch much more sensitive and much more prone to accidental pocket activation.

To reduce the chance of accidental pocket activation in my SST-20 switch, I did the following:

  • Increased switch travel distance slightly - I took a small piece of relatively fine gauge solid core wire, stripped off the PVC insulation and then bent the wire into a “C” ring. I inserted this ring between the bottom of the tailcap and the top of the switch PCB. This had the effect of moving the switch PCB away from the housing about half a mm, and increased switch travel distance by the same.
  • I also added a piece of spring between the metal tailcap and the rubber boot. Not sure this helped much, but it did slightly increase spring tension on the metal boot.
  • Because of the wire C-ring, the tailcap closes to fully seated position about 1/2 a mm further out than the unmodified light. This increase in length is so small as to be almost unnoticeable even when the lights are held close together. However, it is enough that the o-ring used to keep the clip from turning was no longer doing its job. I replaced that o-ring with a slightly thicker one.

With these modifications, the SST-20 switch feels considerably better than stock, but still feels worse than the first-run FW3A’s switches.

Lumintop’s revised tailcap housing is definitely inferior to the original design. Hopefully, they will switch it back for the copper and Titanium run.

I just noticed Neal has Sapphire glass lenses for sale for the FW3A on his website.

I ended up removing the “nubbin” for now. Should have the same effect as your method. A bit more travel and higher actuation force. Still not as satisfyingly clicky as the original one.

Oh yeah forgot about that.

I also replaced the nubbin with a shorter profile one, made from cutting up a piece of cured epoxy putty. I tried it without any nubbin, but the switch didn’t work at all.

Let us know if it worked for you too :+1:

Hey everyone, got a question, let’s say I want change the max temp for the light, once I set the temp that I want do I let the light go through all other menus or do I just turn the light off.

Wait and it will go back to the current temp blink out and you can turn it off from there. (at least that’s what I do)

+1 …. This is what I do too.

I think I saw a thread made by TK about her initial impression of FW3Cu but I can’t find it again.
Any good people here can give me the link?

Considering how easy the switch accidentally presses in the original XPL-HI version, this isn’t a step in the right direction. This is not a light meant for pocket carry, IMO. Unless you lock it out, but then it’s a PITA to use.

I originally thought “muggle mode” was kind of a dumb feature, since “muggles” won’t be buying this light anyway. But it makes sense, if you do choose to carry it in pocket.

are they doing titanium? would be interested in one.

So far I have had no issues with it turning on in my pocket. I don’t clip it to my pocket but just carry it loose (no other items there). I have a nichea from when they were first released. Not sure if it’s an original or tweaked switch. Reasonable travel and pressure to activate. A little gritty at times with an edge push. I might do the tape someone mentioned to get rid of the grit but really, I don’t really notice it unless I’m trying to notice it.