FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Oh yeah forgot about that.

I also replaced the nubbin with a shorter profile one, made from cutting up a piece of cured epoxy putty. I tried it without any nubbin, but the switch didn’t work at all.

Let us know if it worked for you too :+1:

Hey everyone, got a question, let’s say I want change the max temp for the light, once I set the temp that I want do I let the light go through all other menus or do I just turn the light off.

Wait and it will go back to the current temp blink out and you can turn it off from there. (at least that’s what I do)

+1 …. This is what I do too.

I think I saw a thread made by TK about her initial impression of FW3Cu but I can’t find it again.
Any good people here can give me the link?

Considering how easy the switch accidentally presses in the original XPL-HI version, this isn’t a step in the right direction. This is not a light meant for pocket carry, IMO. Unless you lock it out, but then it’s a PITA to use.

I originally thought “muggle mode” was kind of a dumb feature, since “muggles” won’t be buying this light anyway. But it makes sense, if you do choose to carry it in pocket.

are they doing titanium? would be interested in one.

So far I have had no issues with it turning on in my pocket. I don’t clip it to my pocket but just carry it loose (no other items there). I have a nichea from when they were first released. Not sure if it’s an original or tweaked switch. Reasonable travel and pressure to activate. A little gritty at times with an edge push. I might do the tape someone mentioned to get rid of the grit but really, I don’t really notice it unless I’m trying to notice it.

Does anyone know the size of the o-ring for the fw3a?
Thanks SpecialK

Maybe that’s the reason. I carried mine clipped in my pocket last night, for the first time. (I wanted a warm white light.) Activated 3 times by accident, within 1 hour when I was outside. Luckily I had it set to a low level, and it didn’t “press and hold”. Yuck, that’s way too easy. I’ve carried a Zebralight the same way for years, and never had an accidental activation.

Carrying it loosely might help. I might try that, but I’m not sure I trust it. Muggle mode seems like it cripples the light, and lock-out is not for my usage.

20mm OD (outer diameter), but it can be 19 or 18 if that’s all you can find. It will stretch. 3/4” OD is fine.
Thickness is about 1.5mm or 1/16”. This means ID (inner diameter) is 17mm or 21/32”.

Thanks. I just found a rip in the original o ring and wanted to get a few spares for the future.

There should be 2 spares in the box.

I found some red o-rings.

It would seem so. There’s a couple of prototype photo floating around, one solid titanium and another titanium with a copper head/heatsink area. Nothing official has been confirmed though, that I’ve seen.

Neal confirmed that TiCu is planned here: FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public - #11793 by Neal

The only photo of a titanium FW3A is titanium with copper head.

There aren’t any photos of an all titanium FW3A. I think you’re thinking of photos a couple people have made of modded polished aluminum FW3As with the anodizing stripped.

Pictures of the FW3 Ti+Cu and FW3 brass are here : FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public - #11471 by M4D_M4X

I didn’t realize the left one was brass - i thought it was the copper one.

So actual versions floating around are:

  • Anodized aluminum - original FW3A available in gray so far
  • Copper - can be ordered, unsure whether it ships yet
  • Brass - proto?
  • Titanium/Copper - proto?
  • SS - ?

Any confirmations on those?