FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

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azhu
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contactcr wrote:
Does a red noctigon mcpcb make lights rosy? I wish it did so people would stop complaining about green Smile

Haha… or people could just order some rosy 219b and be done with it Silly

Need Nichia 219b r9080 Emitters? (。◕‿◕。)

“The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it.” John 1:5

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azhu wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Does a red noctigon mcpcb make lights rosy? I wish it did so people would stop complaining about green Smile
Haha… or people could just order some rosy 219b and be done with it Silly

Can you source some 2700K and 3000K 219B? I bought some 3000K 219B 9080 from LEDRISE.eu and they tested true 9080 but with a greenish duv of 0.0028 even on high output and measures about 3400K. I would love to try some rosy WW 219B.

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azhu wrote:
Nite Shadow wrote:
Does the use of glow discs, glow powders or tapes in the emitter/lens cavity affect the beam tint of the actual light? Also, do tritium tubes in the optics affect the beam tint?

I doubt that the minimal emission of the trits and/or glow gaskets would make a significant difference to the powerful output of the LED emitters unless they were used in a lower power mode. Technically they would add color to the light but I’ve never noticed any difference. I guess it’s similar to adding a teaspoon of sugar to a gallon of water.

Thanks azhu for your post. It is appreciated and I would expect this to be the case but I do not know. I am looking for someone that might have more definitive trials or tests with green or any other color. I do not have any HCRI SST-20 containing lights which would seem to me to be a good before/after scenario at low levels especially since the new one’s Neal has sourced appear upon first report to have no green even at low levels. I have trit containing light but they are all in the sides and tail. The nice thing about the new lights with auxiliary lights is that they are programmed to turn off when the main LED’s are powered on. I have 6 of these type lighrts and love them and they are a non issue as far as tint change. And, yes, I have lots and lots of 219B lights and love that tint. Nichia just doesn’t make them anymore (they would, but need a minimum 3,000 reel order) (Yes I contacted them, just ask TK) so the search goes on for an equal or better tint producing emitter and how they are affected by the glow product options that are being put in the lens area.

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pennzy wrote:
All the Goop Glues are basically the same product.

Thank you — good to know. I always keep a tube of Goop shoe-goo around for various long term repairs that can be reversed. I’d gotten into the habit of manual lock-out (just a slight twist to the head), but if the perimeter ring works well to reduce accidental activation, that saves one less thing on the mind when dealing with a pocketed FW3A. Thumbs Up
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tatasal wrote:
Somewhere in China:

Very nice work, tatasal! Beer
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xevious wrote:
pennzy wrote:
All the Goop Glues are basically the same product.

Thank you — good to know. I always keep a tube of Goop shoe-goo around for various long term repairs that can be reversed. I’d gotten into the habit of manual lock-out (just a slight twist to the head), but if the perimeter ring works well to reduce accidental activation, that saves one less thing on the mind when dealing with a pocketed FW3A. Thumbs Up

I think if there are no other objects in your pocket , you will not get accidental activations. At least that has been my experience so far. You could stack the washers for added protection but it might not look as nice. With one , it looks like it came that way.
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contactcr wrote:
Lens comparison from first batch FW3A vs No Lens (optic in place) vs UCL Lens. This is a modded 219B on the 2nd stepped level.

Stock AR Lens:
1260lux (239.4lm)

Yxy: 337.437599 0.364519 0.362489
CCT = 4372K (Duv -0.0018)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 91.8 [ R9 = 84.5 ]
R1 = 93.8 R2 = 92.4 R3 = 88.7 R4 = 92.1 R5 = 92.6 R6 = 87.6 R7 = 93.3
R8 = 93.9 R9 = 84.5 R10 = 80.7 R11 = 92.1 R12 = 71.8 R13 = 93.0 R14 = 93.8

No Lens:
1280lux (243.2lm)

Yxy: 291.757632 0.362148 0.358032
CCT = 4422K (Duv -0.0032)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 92.2 [ R9 = 88.3 ]
R1 = 94.9 R2 = 92.9 R3 = 88.5 R4 = 92.2 R5 = 93.6 R6 = 88.1 R7 = 93.1
R8 = 94.6 R9 = 88.3 R10 = 81.7 R11 = 92.4 R12 = 72.8 R13 = 93.9 R14 = 93.6

UCL Lens:
1290lux (245.1lm)

Yxy: 324.812067 0.363629 0.359307
CCT = 4381K (Duv -0.0031)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 92.2 [ R9 = 87.9 ]
R1 = 94.7 R2 = 92.8 R3 = 88.5 R4 = 92.1 R5 = 93.4 R6 = 88.0 R7 = 93.1
R8 = 94.5 R9 = 87.9 R10 = 81.6 R11 = 92.4 R12 = 72.8 R13 = 93.8 R14 = 93.6

Kaidomain Lens (22.7mm x 2.0mm):
1290lux (245.1lm)

Yxy: 252.814646 0.368024 0.364769
CCT = 4277K (Duv -0.0019)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 91.9 [ R9 = 84.7 ]
R1 = 93.9 R2 = 92.5 R3 = 88.8 R4 = 92.2 R5 = 92.6 R6 = 87.7 R7 = 93.3
R8 = 93.9 R9 = 84.7 R10 = 80.9 R11 = 92.1 R12 = 72.3 R13 = 93.0 R14 = 93.8

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Same lux as UCL? Is that real or a copy-paste error?

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Agro wrote:
Same lux as UCL? Is that real or a copy-paste error?

There might be a slight difference the meter was set to auto and it showed 129×10 but since I took the measurement that way originally I did the same this time.

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That’s interesting result. Smile

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Nite Shadow wrote:
azhu wrote:
Nite Shadow wrote:
Does the use of glow discs, glow powders or tapes in the emitter/lens cavity affect the beam tint of the actual light? Also, do tritium tubes in the optics affect the beam tint?

I doubt that the minimal emission of the trits and/or glow gaskets would make a significant difference to the powerful output of the LED emitters unless they were used in a lower power mode. Technically they would add color to the light but I’ve never noticed any difference. I guess it’s similar to adding a teaspoon of sugar to a gallon of water.

Thanks azhu for your post. It is appreciated and I would expect this to be the case but I do not know. I am looking for someone that might have more definitive trials or tests with green or any other color. I do not have any HCRI SST-20 containing lights which would seem to me to be a good before/after scenario at low levels especially since the new one’s Neal has sourced appear upon first report to have no green even at low levels. I have trit containing light but they are all in the sides and tail. The nice thing about the new lights with auxiliary lights is that they are programmed to turn off when the main LED’s are powered on. I have 6 of these type lighrts and love them and they are a non issue as far as tint change. And, yes, I have lots and lots of 219B lights and love that tint. Nichia just doesn’t make them anymore (they would, but need a minimum 3,000 reel order) (Yes I contacted them, just ask TK) so the search goes on for an equal or better tint producing emitter and how they are affected by the glow product options that are being put in the lens area.

I actually sell 219b if you need some. I have sw35, sw40, and sw45k. PM me.

Need Nichia 219b r9080 Emitters? (。◕‿◕。)

“The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it.” John 1:5

Nite Shadow
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azhu wrote:
Nite Shadow wrote:
azhu wrote:
Nite Shadow wrote:
Does the use of glow discs, glow powders or tapes in the emitter/lens cavity affect the beam tint of the actual light? Also, do tritium tubes in the optics affect the beam tint?

I doubt that the minimal emission of the trits and/or glow gaskets would make a significant difference to the powerful output of the LED emitters unless they were used in a lower power mode. Technically they would add color to the light but I’ve never noticed any difference. I guess it’s similar to adding a teaspoon of sugar to a gallon of water.

Thanks azhu for your post. It is appreciated and I would expect this to be the case but I do not know. I am looking for someone that might have more definitive trials or tests with green or any other color. I do not have any HCRI SST-20 containing lights which would seem to me to be a good before/after scenario at low levels especially since the new one’s Neal has sourced appear upon first report to have no green even at low levels. I have trit containing light but they are all in the sides and tail. The nice thing about the new lights with auxiliary lights is that they are programmed to turn off when the main LED’s are powered on. I have 6 of these type lighrts and love them and they are a non issue as far as tint change. And, yes, I have lots and lots of 219B lights and love that tint. Nichia just doesn’t make them anymore (they would, but need a minimum 3,000 reel order) (Yes I contacted them, just ask TK) so the search goes on for an equal or better tint producing emitter and how they are affected by the glow product options that are being put in the lens area.

I actually sell 219b if you need some. I have sw35, sw40, and sw45k. PM me.

PM sent.

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tatasal wrote:
Somewhere in China:

The idea of using the Fu Bat is Brilliant, I love the work you did, and the light looks fantastic!

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tatasal wrote:

Batman would be proud LOL

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jon_slider wrote:
tatasal wrote:
Somewhere in China:

The idea of using the Fu Bat is Brilliant, I love the work you did, and the light looks fantastic!
!{width:60%}[img]https://i.imgur.com/DUQwKbQl.png[/img]!

Oh no, I didn’t do it, some Chinese flashaholic did! Beer

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pinkpanda3310 wrote:

Batman would be proud LOL

I was thinking about making a Batman comment, and wish I would have!  :FACEPALM:

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FW3A mods on a budget:

GITD: trimmed tape band along inside wall just below Carclo optic, and band along groove in tail cap
Optic: 10507 (in addition to others , beams)
Grip: trimmed bicycle inner tube, reversed. Also, o-ring attached, aligned to base of tail cap.

Still have a plan to install trits, but waiting to see how the tail cap aftermarket offerings pan out. I’m completely satisfied with the XP-L 3D emitters and feel no need to change. I was tempted to attach a metal washer to the tail cap as done by another member here to help minimize accidental activation, but, I’m finding the slight twist of the head to be very effective and not really a bother. The grip enhancements are excellent. The inner tube has completely stabilized the grip, no slippage. And the o-ring adds a little extra tactile grip when picking up. It extends about 1mm beyond the tail cap radius — just enough to be useful without being obtrusive.


/\ — photo edit caused tint skew in last image — actual tint is neutral not cool

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xevious wrote:
FW3A mods on a budget: !{width:90%}https://i.postimg.cc/nrGWVHm4/FW3-A-minor-mods.jpg! *GITD*: trimmed tape band along inside wall just below Carclo optic, and band along groove in tail cap *Optic*: 10507 *Grip*: trimmed bicycle inner tube, reversed. Also, o-ring attached, aligned to base of tail cap. Still have a plan to install trits, but waiting to see how the tail cap aftermarket offerings pan out. I'm completely satisfied with the XP-L 3D emitters and feel no need to change. I was tempted to attach a metal washer to the tail cap as done by another member here to help minimize accidental activation, but, I'm finding the slight twist of the head to be very effective and not really a bother.

Nicely done! Big Smile

Where to find that GITD tape please?

Beer

 

- SAM -

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SamHaLeKe wrote:

Nicely done! Big Smile

Where to find that GITD tape please?

Beer

- SAM -

Hi Sam, it's standard GITD tape available from many places. I happened to pick Captank waterproof tape. Then just trimmed to fit. I read up quite a bit about phosphor used in this kind of tape and it really doesn't wear out -- you can recharge nearly endlessly. The adhesive will wear out first, if anything.  The tape inside the head is well protected so it should last the life of the light.

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xevious wrote:

SamHaLeKe wrote:

Nicely done! Big Smile


Where to find that GITD tape please?


Beer


- SAM -



Hi Sam, it’s standard GITD tape available from many places. I happened to pick Captank waterproof tape. Then just trimmed to fit. I read up quite a bit about phosphor used in this kind of tape and it really doesn’t wear out — you can recharge nearly endlessly. The adhesive will wear out first, if anything.  The tape inside the head is well protected so it should last the life of the light.



should be good for a least half hour then 

Big Smile
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Nev wrote:

should be good for a least half hour then 

:D

Ugh, I take it you're one of the folks who got a dud?  Tired

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xevious wrote:

nice photos Smile

Im a recent convert to Green glow tape. I use it on the tail of my lights.

I dont even pre-charge it, and I can see the marker on my lights in the middle of the night when I wake for a bathroom.

The only charging the glow markers on my lights get, is ambient light from sitting on a table indoors. It glows 24/7 and is easily bright enough, in green, to see with dark adapted eyes. No charging required.

pics taken during the day
left is glow powder, middle is a glow tape, right is another brand of glow tape (I dont know which is what, they all work)

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xevious wrote:

Nev wrote:

should be good for a least half hour then 


Big Smile


Ugh, I take it you’re one of the folks who got a dud?  Tired


Yup , & still waiting ,it would’ve been quicker to walk to China to get a replacement Tired Tired Tired
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Nev wrote:
it would’ve been quicker to walk to China to get a replacement

it is faster to get a refund:
step 1, paypal dispute
step 2, you get a fast refund
step 3, place a new order

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Another style…FW3A Ti-trit button WIPSteve

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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jon_slider wrote:
Nev wrote:
it would’ve been quicker to walk to China to get a replacement

it is faster to get a refund:
step 1, paypal dispute
step 2, you get a fast refund
step 3, place a new order

I am not sure if you have disputed something after PayPal modified its policy last year, but it is far harder to get a refund these days. PayPal took no action when I received a Astrolux light with a defective driver. They will require you to ship back defective items to China (at your expense) and give you a small credit towards shipping after you send the item back to the seller. To ship my light back it would have cost me $80 and they offered to pay $40, for an item I paid around $85. Paypal will basically favor sellers now, they changed their policy to gain acceptance from Chinese sellers. On eBay they even refused to refund me for a order that I never received, even though the seller did not respond to me for 3 months and provided no tracking. My only option was getting my CC company to do a charge back and PayPal then threated to cancel my account (though they did not).

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Another style…FW3A Ti-trit button WIPSteve

!{width:40%}https://i.postimg.cc/W3nBMh0H/IMG-0831.jpg!

Yep, that’s awesome.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

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jon_slider wrote:
nice photos Smile

Im a recent convert to Green glow tape. I use it on the tail of my lights.

I dont even pre-charge it, and I can see the marker on my lights in the middle of the night when I wake for a bathroom.

The only charging the glow markers on my lights get, is ambient light from sitting on a table indoors. It glows 24/7 and is easily bright enough, in green, to see with dark adapted eyes. No charging required.

pics taken during the day
left is glow powder, middle is a glow tape, right is another brand of glow tape (I dont know which is what, they all work)
!{width:90%}[img]https://i.imgur.com/7YybNEv.png[/img]!


Thanks, and nice work on yours too. The photos were taken momentarily after taking away the light source, so the phosphor is glowing brightly. Looks amazing… but of course, it doesn’t last. Still, like you say, the ambient glow is very long and useful in the dead of night. I cut out some GITD tape for my RRT-01 (original), but I didn’t use a template. It’s a little “off”. But, it works. Do you find the glow powder glow duration to be similar to the tape?
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Another style…FW3A Ti-trit button WIPSteve

That’s a lot of tritium! Very precise cutting to get that symmetry just right. For me, I’d like just an “=”. That way no trits are overlapping and its plenty bright. I hope we see a future FW3A with trit slots drilled in similar to Tain’s work.

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xevious wrote:
Do you find the glow powder glow duration to be similar to the tape?

the powder that CRX installed in the Titanium TCR-1 is noticeably brighter than the two different green tapes

the green powder charges up brighter, it does not fade as fast, it stays brighter longer

The powder is also brighter in the middle of the night than the tapes.

Both glow tapes and the powder, are all easily visible enough to see on my nightstand, when I wake in the dark without my glasses on. They do look a little fuzzy.. lol

I like the tape because it is removable if someone changes their mind

I like the permanent green powder, because it is… permanent.. lol

Thanks to pinkpanda, I also tried permanent red powder, it was very weak, and I could not see it on the nightstand. So I put some wedges of green glow sticker over it. Wink

The red is only visible immediately after charging, it fades almost immediately.

hope this glow conversation is not too much of a hijack, since my lights are not fw3a

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