Well, there’s been at least one other report of the problem, plus a few other reports (in the same thread) of people saying the soldering job was really bad on their light.
I think Lumintop does have a manufacturing issue when it comes to soldering the tailcap. Maybe it’s just one bad person on the assembly line, or maybe the design prevents easy soldering. I know that I could only manage to solder two points down, but I admit my skill is crap.
Hey, this is the general discussion for the FW3A right? I ordered one with an SST20 awhile back and I’ve just been lurking around. From what I’ve been reading lately, it seems that the lumintop supplied optic isn’t that bad? And on top of that, it has less of a green tint than the standard optic configuration and is a bit floodier? How big of an issue is the green tint with the AR glass? Should I continue waiting for the Carclo lenses or should I just get the new optic? What are the negatives of getting this new optic instead of waiting?
Yes, GroovyBro, this is the general discussion for the FW3A. There is a lot of info in this thread, as well as the other FW3A threads. If you ordered one, you should wait for whichever one you ordered. You will like it. Welcome.
Update July 10th
the Carclo 10511 optics arrive today,
Lumintop will start to assembly tomorrow and will ship to me this week
so I will start to ship all the orders from fridayfriday.
I don’t have them anymore, Windows decided it wanted to restart over night with programs still running.
You can see the X,Y values in the chart and when I estimate them they come out to:
around the “5” level:
with stock AR lens: ~0.004 Duv
with UCL AR lens: ~0.002 Duv
~39xx CCT
If you really got some SST-20 version that is better than this you should horde it cause it sounds like you got lucky based on these last few posts.
EDIT:
Just to clarify another point, the “8” mark on the plot is Turbo, which this light cant handle for more than a few seconds, so pretty much entirely above the BBL at all levels if you ask me.