FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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Firelight2
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Tally-ho wrote:
As quite a few different finishes were and are tested and are proposed : aluminum with different anodization colors, sand/bead blasted copper, polished copper, stonewashed titanium, could it be possible to have a version with machining marks like it was supposed to looks like :

FW3A Team wrote:

Looks

Clear anodisation (no pigments) and NO sanding or sandblasting of the parts after machining.

This makes the FW3A look like it came of a lathe of a skilled machinist with the added protection anodisation offers to keep it beautiful for a long time.

No marking/logo for a clean look

Stainless steel clip


Here I’m speaking for myself, I’m not very demanding concerning the material used, I will be happy with aluminum or copper or brass (preferably) or titanium+copper but could we have at least and at last THE version with machining marks, please ?
I would be eternally grateful.

I don’t think they are going to do clear aluminum anodizing since they had trouble getting it to look uniform. However, perhaps they could do a limited run bare aluminum version with no anodizing?
contactcr
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Yes, bare AL would be an instant buy for me.

This thing is supposed to keep the Copper hard for a long time right?

Klayking
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Oh is that ring supposed to go on the flashlight…?

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WalkIntoTheLight
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ToyKeeper wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:

It’s not back luck, it’s bad soldering that lumintop is doing.

I don’t mean bad luck in the sense of what happened when it fell. I mean bad luck in the sense of getting an item which was assembled badly — being the unlucky person who got a dud.

If this was happening frequently, that wouldn’t be luck… it’d be a broken manufacturing process. But there’s only one known case of this happening, and one (yours) which looks like it could have been a near miss. So unless more people run into the same issue, I’d consider it a “ask vendor to send new hardware” sort of issue instead of a “ask manufacturer to fix their process” sort of issue.

Well, there’s been at least one other report of the problem, plus a few other reports (in the same thread) of people saying the soldering job was really bad on their light.

I think Lumintop does have a manufacturing issue when it comes to soldering the tailcap. Maybe it’s just one bad person on the assembly line, or maybe the design prevents easy soldering. I know that I could only manage to solder two points down, but I admit my skill is crap.

JasonWW
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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:

It’s not back luck, it’s bad soldering that lumintop is doing.

I don’t mean bad luck in the sense of what happened when it fell. I mean bad luck in the sense of getting an item which was assembled badly — being the unlucky person who got a dud.

If this was happening frequently, that wouldn’t be luck… it’d be a broken manufacturing process. But there’s only one known case of this happening, and one (yours) which looks like it could have been a near miss. So unless more people run into the same issue, I’d consider it a “ask vendor to send new hardware” sort of issue instead of a “ask manufacturer to fix their process” sort of issue.

Well, there’s been at least one other report of the problem, plus a few other reports (in the same thread) of people saying the soldering job was really bad on their light.


Your linking to Goshdogit’s post? There is no mention of a problem there (maybe just poor soldering if the spring?).

Some other people also have poor solder joints on the spring. Up to 12A of current can flow through the spring. Lumintop should look into fixing this.

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timbo114
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contactcr wrote:

This thing is supposed to keep the Copper hard for a long time right?

YES, But-
If left on beyond 4 hours … you may need to seek medical attention.
(Or pay a quick visit to the nearest ‘cell’ house Evil )

GroovyBro
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Hey, this is the general discussion for the FW3A right? I ordered one with an SST20 awhile back and I’ve just been lurking around. From what I’ve been reading lately, it seems that the lumintop supplied optic isn’t that bad? And on top of that, it has less of a green tint than the standard optic configuration and is a bit floodier? How big of an issue is the green tint with the AR glass? Should I continue waiting for the Carclo lenses or should I just get the new optic? What are the negatives of getting this new optic instead of waiting?

Thanks!

BOO5TED
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Just received an email from Neal that the Carclo optics will be delivered tomorrow, so the lights will ship with the correct optics.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

Bob_McBob
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contactcr wrote:
If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. This is two different lights, 1x FW3C and 1x FW3A.

!{width:100%}https://i.imgur.com/N4lk1Q4.jpg!

What are the actual measurements?

cabfrank
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Yes, GroovyBro, this is the general discussion for the FW3A. There is a lot of info in this thread, as well as the other FW3A threads. If you ordered one, you should wait for whichever one you ordered. You will like it. Welcome.

kevinm
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tatasal wrote:
Meanwhile, somewhere in China:

Would anyone not want this?

!{width:70%}[img]https://i.imgur.com/kd3APd4.jpg[/img]!

Holy crap, that is AMAZING! My girlfriend and I map caves, and she does bat protection work. She would love that!

Firelight2
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Did someone hand-etch that into an FW3C? or did they have cast a custom bezel and tube?

JasonWW
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Firelight2 wrote:
Did someone hand-etch that into an FW3C? or did they have cast a custom bezel and tube?

I’m sure it’s hand cut. You can’t really cast something like that as far as I’m aware.

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Neal
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Update July 10th
the Carclo 10511 optics arrive today,
Lumintop will start to assembly tomorrow and will ship to me this week
so I will start to ship all the orders from fridayfriday.

justanotherguy
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kevinm wrote:
tatasal wrote:
Meanwhile, somewhere in China:

Would anyone not want this?

!{width:70%}[img]https://i.imgur.com/kd3APd4.jpg[/img]!

Holy crap, that is AMAZING! My girlfriend and I map caves, and she does bat protection work. She would love that!

Could be laser engraved, no?

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

trakcon
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Neal wrote:
Update July 10th the Carclo 10511 optics arrive today, Lumintop will start to assembly tomorrow and will ship to me this week so I will start to ship all the orders from fridayfriday.

Thanks for the update, Neal!

lotrbfme
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Neal wrote:
Update July 10th the Carclo 10511 optics arrive today, Lumintop will start to assembly tomorrow and will ship to me this week so I will start to ship all the orders from fridayfriday.

Thanks Neals, any update on when the new colors are going to be sold?

maba
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SST20 finally arrived Wink

- led is OK, slightly green, I prefer XP-L HI V2 5D in D4.
- I do not like a small amount of lumens and yet it warms up more than XPL
- lens for very flood, Carclo 10511 much better
- the switch is too sensitive
- in my FW3A missing one oring
- I love the two modes on a locked flashlight

contactcr
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Bob_McBob wrote:
contactcr wrote:
If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. This is two different lights, 1x FW3C and 1x FW3A.

!{width:100%}https://i.imgur.com/N4lk1Q4.jpg!

What are the actual measurements?

I don’t have them anymore, Windows decided it wanted to restart over night with programs still running.

You can see the X,Y values in the chart and when I estimate them they come out to:

around the “5” level:

with stock AR lens: ~0.004 Duv
with UCL AR lens: ~0.002 Duv

~39xx CCT

If you really got some SST-20 version that is better than this you should horde it cause it sounds like you got lucky based on these last few posts.

EDIT:

Just to clarify another point, the “8” mark on the plot is Turbo, which this light cant handle for more than a few seconds, so pretty much entirely above the BBL at all levels if you ask me.

raccoon city
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Aw, I missed post #12,500!

EnlightenMe
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Dibs on 12,502!

JasonWW
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justanotherguy wrote:
tatasal wrote:
Meanwhile, somewhere in China:

Would anyone not want this?



Could be laser engraved, no?

No, laser results look very different. This looks like it was cut with with a hand held rotary tool, like a Dremel or maybe scraped by hand or a combo of both.

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cabfrank
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I got my SST-20 today, way faster than I thought. The optic is very frosty, but it included a glass lens for me to install a 10507. The ano is more blue than the first batch, no worries. The clip is silver, no worries. It has a lot of lube on the threads, no worries. The switch is different, no worries. The tint looks great in the daytime, will have to experiment tonight. The soldering is terrible though. It looks like how I solder, which is why I usually don’t. Would anyone be willing to post two pictures if I email them? Maybe pm me your email address and I will send them? Thanks.

Kavin
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Neal wrote:
Update July 10th the Carclo 10511 optics arrive today, Lumintop will start to assembly tomorrow and will ship to me this week so I will start to ship all the orders from fridayfriday.

Thanks for the update Neal! I can’t wait.

cabfrank
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!https://ibb.co/hfdnrpT

Here is a picture of the soldering, all opinions appreciated.

JasonWW
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cabfrank wrote:

Here is a picture of the soldering, all opinions appreciated.


.


The soldering looks fine. It appears messy nearby because they didn’t clean the flux residue. You can take a Q-tip and rubbing alcohol and clean the flux.

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teacher
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cabfrank wrote:
!https://ibb.co/hfdnrpT

Here is a picture of the soldering, all opinions appreciated.

It appears to be stuck good, is it??

If so I’d just clean it all up with some alcohol & go with it.

Or, if you can solder & want to try & make it look prettier, give it a go. If you do, check the thermal paste while your at it to see if there is proper coverage.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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dragunbayne
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I can’t wait to get mine, it’s been out there on a boat or something somewhere for about 10 days. My UCL lens came in and it is lonely.

cabfrank
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If you guys think it’s good, it’s good enough for me. I will just clean it up and be happy.

contactcr
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The biggest thing is the LED domes really. The soldering can look ugly and still be perfectly fine.

2 out of 3 of my lights had something pretty big on one of the LEDs that had to be wiped off. No damage cause I always check for it but a few turbo blasts will really start cooking anything left on there.

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