FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Thanks for the update, Neal!

Thanks Neals, any update on when the new colors are going to be sold?

SST20 finally arrived :wink:

- led is OK, slightly green, I prefer XP-L HI V2 5D in D4.

- I do not like a small amount of lumens and yet it warms up more than XPL

- lens for very flood, Carclo 10511 much better

- the switch is too sensitive

- in my FW3A missing one oring

  • I love the two modes on a locked flashlight

I don’t have them anymore, Windows decided it wanted to restart over night with programs still running.

You can see the X,Y values in the chart and when I estimate them they come out to:

around the “5” level:

with stock AR lens: ~0.004 Duv
with UCL AR lens: ~0.002 Duv

~39xx CCT

If you really got some SST-20 version that is better than this you should horde it cause it sounds like you got lucky based on these last few posts.

EDIT:

Just to clarify another point, the “8” mark on the plot is Turbo, which this light cant handle for more than a few seconds, so pretty much entirely above the BBL at all levels if you ask me.

Aw, I missed post #12,500!

Dibs on 12,502!

No, laser results look very different. This looks like it was cut with with a hand held rotary tool, like a Dremel or maybe scraped by hand or a combo of both.

I got my SST-20 today, way faster than I thought. The optic is very frosty, but it included a glass lens for me to install a 10507. The ano is more blue than the first batch, no worries. The clip is silver, no worries. It has a lot of lube on the threads, no worries. The switch is different, no worries. The tint looks great in the daytime, will have to experiment tonight. The soldering is terrible though. It looks like how I solder, which is why I usually don’t. Would anyone be willing to post two pictures if I email them? Maybe pm me your email address and I will send them? Thanks.

Thanks for the update Neal! I can’t wait.

!20190710-151044 hosted at ImgBB — ImgBB

Here is a picture of the soldering, all opinions appreciated.

The soldering looks fine. It appears messy nearby because they didn’t clean the flux residue. You can take a Q-tip and rubbing alcohol and clean the flux.

It appears to be stuck good, is it??

If so I’d just clean it all up with some alcohol & go with it.

Or, if you can solder & want to try & make it look prettier, give it a go. If you do, check the thermal paste while your at it to see if there is proper coverage.

I can’t wait to get mine, it’s been out there on a boat or something somewhere for about 10 days. My UCL lens came in and it is lonely.

If you guys think it’s good, it’s good enough for me. I will just clean it up and be happy.

The biggest thing is the LED domes really. The soldering can look ugly and still be perfectly fine.

2 out of 3 of my lights had something pretty big on one of the LEDs that had to be wiped off. No damage cause I always check for it but a few turbo blasts will really start cooking anything left on there.

I had a glob on one of mine too, which I picked off. Is alcohol good to use on the domes too?

Yep I use isopropyl on everything.

Yup just make sure it’s a high proof like Wild Turkey or something! :smiley:

Yeah, Wild Turkey for me and isopropyl for my flashlight. We’ll both be happy.

Good strategy. Plus, since you won’t be soldering, you can use the Wild Turkey before during and after.

PSA: Wild Turkey and soldering do not get along.