Dimmer LEDs are pretty normal for multi emitter lights, but the other things you describe are not. What do your 7135 chips look like? Iâve heard cheaper ones can have issues with consistency, particularly in moonlight modes. Maybe theyâve switched out the chips for crappy ones? They should have a âraptor clawâ type symbol on them. Of thats good it sounds like the low mode chip might be faulty, although low brightness in turbo may indicate a high resistance somewhere in the current path.
My light seemed to have the flickering you describe, but only in turbo (I had no issue with it at all before, even after fiddling about). Cleaning the main threads of some of the lube seems to have fixed it. I was worried the FET was on its way out as thatâs the only time it happened.
The chip that controls the bottom end (the â+1â in FET+N+1) is on the inside of the driver so unless he de-solders the MCPCB he cant get a picture of the important one.
Hmmm, this behavior does not sound like anything I can think of. There may be a problem with the software or maybe the driver. Itâs quite odd.
Are you able to make a video to show what itâs doing? That might help.
I think the confirmation blinks going into and out of lockout mode and the moonlight level (20) of the stepped ramping are all done on the single 7135 channel. So that 7135 seems to be working. (it controls output up to about 125 lumen)
I donât know if a bad 7135 chip can cause a flicker. Maybe someone here knows for sure.
From what Iâve read, the parasitic drain in the FW3A is nearly negligible. Yet if youâre going to not use the FW3A for a very long time (many weeks or months), it makes sense to take out the battery. True, a slight turn of the head doesnât provide a full lockout of the light, but it does lockout the switch⌠which is the intention anyway â to prevent accidental activation. While 4 rapid clicks will do an electronic lockout, thatâs 8 clicks every time (4 to disengage, 4 to engage)ânot only a PITA but induces faster wear to the switch. Thatâs why I favor a slight turn of the head.
Iâm hoping some of the DIY electronic switch replacements that have been done by veteran members here is inspirational enough for Lumintop to introduce an improved switch with a later release that is backwards compatible with the FW3A v1.
From what you describe it definitely sounds like thereâs some kind of electronic issue with your light. If you did all the needful steps like tightening down the head retainer ring and tail cap and it still happens, this mandates a return. Itâs a bummer for the distributors, but this is the unfortunate side effect of sloppy workmanship from Lumintop. My light functions fine, but I noticed the battery spring is askew. And Iâve seen some people with seriously worse situations, like this:
Donât muck around with the light â just send it back and get a replacement.
You donât actually send it back. Shipping would probably cost you more than the price of the light. Itâs much cheaper to just keep the defective light and have Neal send a replacement head. Shipping is way way cheaper from China to US. (I donât know where Yoav.Klein is at, but I use the US as an example)
Thanks for clarifying â I didnât know the policy was to ship a replacement part. I guess it makes sense. China must be subsidizing shipping from China to US. I still donât know how I can buy a $1 item with free shipping and the seller make any money. It must cost them like $0.10 to mail small items.
Itâs the other way around. The first world countries are subsidizing shipping from third world countries. A long ago UN thing to help up and coming countries. China probably doesnât need any help anymore.
I (finally) managed to make a (very amateurish) video showing the problems with my flashlight.
I âresetâ the ramp configuration on both flashlights before this video (Smooth Ramp: 1 click, 21 clicks; Stepped Ramp: 20 clicks, 21 clicks, 7 clicks).
Also, I set the camera to manual exposure, so that it wouldnât compensate automatically for the flickering. That means youâll see me changing the exposure manually on each mode change.
It turns out that the bad light does turn on the LEDs in moonlight mode, but theyâre so low I canât tell if theyâre on, even by looking directly at them, unless Iâm in a completely dark roomâŚ
Hello all,
I just wanted to give props to Neal for his handling of my problem with my FW3A. It never worked right out of the box; didnât get the blink when new batt inserted and clicks all had random outcomes. I tried every trick in this thread and fussed with it for a month. I suspected it just had a bad driver flash. Finally I sent a PM to him here and offered to pay shipping for a new head. He offered a driver, but I explained my soldering skills and eyesight wouldnât be able to make that work. He replied with a short, somewhat cryptic response that warranty would cover it. Guess what showed up in the mail yesterday? Complete new light in full blown factory packaging! To anyone experiencing problems, just contact him and he WILL make it right! Thank you so much, Neal!
It looks like everything is pointing to a bad 7135 chip, specifically the single chip on the lowest channel.
So the stuff under 120 lumen is all going through that single chip. Above that level, that channel goes 100% and the next channel, 7x7135 chips are PWM so itâs still using that first 7135 chip but itâs effects become less noticable. Then on Turbo itâs the FET only.
A new driver should fix it, but if your not able to solder the 2 led wires, a new head would be the fix.
If you have hot air you could try swapping in a new 7135 chip, but itâs a bit more advanced.