Glad to hear it all worked out for you, too @teacher! 
Roll tide! 
Thank you my friend!! Hopefully it will end well with a smooth delivery for us both. 
Roll Tide!! … 
It won’t be long before the season opens….
That’s what i said…
a thumb stud/spydiehole can be flicked, it’s something else.
Washers are just… well, washers. bearings (idealy ceramic) are little balls in a copper cage which both roll for less resistance and have significantly less area of contact which reduces the friction a lot.
nylon washers ( bad) and bronze washers (good, but stiffer than bearings)
caged ball bearings
caged ball bearings and special washers for titanium handles (titanium is pretty soft so the bearings would wear away the titanium otherwise)
and needle bearings, not many knives use these but they’re amazing
As far as washers, I like the Phosphors Bronze washers Chris Reeve uses. They have relief holes or slots for less friction & also retain grease.
.
I received a Ruike P801 today.
It doesn't quick open all the way every time.
I think I'm done buying flipper knives that supposedly quick open.
I'm batting 0.000
In other words, I'm striking out every time.
I still have a Gocomma coming in the mail.
After that, I'm through.
First one? You’ll like it. Ohhh, trust me, you’ll like it.
It'll be my third different Gocomma, and I hope I will like it.
I’ve bought a lot of knives off of AliExpress, quite a few have not flipped well until I’ve cleaned them. I take them apart an clean the bearings with brake cleaner then assemble with a little sewing machine oil or Finish Line fluorinated grease, and boy do they flip a lot smoother and faster! HFT purple threadlocker works great on the screws and pivot too!
The best flipper out of the box I received was a two sun knife from Ali, but it was a little more expensive at $45.
RC if you can get the grease out of the pivot and replace with oil it will work much better. I wasn’t able to open the torx screws in the handle do to strong loctite that wrecked my bits, so if you go that route you may need to heat them first, but I was able to get the grease out with some cleaning with regular printer paper on either side of blade, and tissues.
Also not sure if you are trying to push the flipper towards pivot or using light switch motion, not saying both wont work but second one is better for this model, and if your fingers are on frame lock it can slow the opening as well.
Guys, I appreciate the advice, but I don't take my knives apart.
If the knife doesn't perform as I expect it to, I eventually try to sell it.
That is my only recourse.
Nice choice!! . I am loving that one too.
IMO…. Ganzo/Firebird has stepped their game up as they became Firebird.
The FH Series is a leap in the right direction compared to older Ganzo’s.
And the new FB7651 is too… IMO of course.
I have the FH21, FH41, & FB7651…. and I am pleased with & recommend either or all if those three.
ymmv
I think it’s a flipper
Hold a fish up & it will quick open.
I never got mine apart, just removed the grease they like to pack in there, works much better with oil.
I could PM you when I eventually create a thread, though I won't be giving my knives away.
Figured I’d give it a shot. It’s listed on amazon for $29.19. Was trying to offer something to compensate your learning curve in the knife. At this point, you spent the money. I just offered to give some back lol. Prime will have me one here by Saturday and includes warranty.
The Ruike is arguably the best flipper available sub 50$ maybe it’s your technique? try “push buttoning” it instead of “light switching” or the other way around.
That said, most of the budget Chinese knives seem to get assembled in the same place they do the milling/grinding which makes them a little gritty sometime, not use the best lube (though IMO Ruike uses the best stock lube)
You’re kinda doing yourself a disservice by not disassembling, cleaning, lubing and tuning the knives. for 99% of the ones i receive the first thing i do is disassemble and even some of the worst stock action tends to get smooth and reliable (the only ones i haven’t disassembled are any of my Sanrenmu 710’s - a SRM 910 g10 version, the steel version needed a clean - Ruike p121, which after a year still feels like a Sebenza - and a Real Steel Griffin Titan, but that’s an entirely different price point (made by the same people as Sanrenmu)
My most recent one was a 940 clone (was really cheap, testing the ergonomics - not for big hands) came super stiff, took it apart, polished the washers on my strop (they were punched and had a slight burr) lubed with thick fishing reel lube and now the action is nearly indistinguishable from a real BM, took maybe 10 minutes.
Also took the left (looking from the spine) omega spring out which made it a lot more fidgety.