Received my order today, i just ordered thursday, so shipping is really fast.
My order came well packed and in a sealed ESD bag, the quality of the items and packaging of LED4POWER is top notch!
A little bit thicker (and stiffer) bronze spring with the 12x9mm dimensions and measured ~7.8mOhm of resistance (right one in picture below next to the 11mOhm 1.0mm wire spring):
mosX material can't be used for DIY because there is layer of titanium above ceramic on which copper is electroplated. You can't etch titanium with anything that's not terribly dangerous for DIY.
I tried to etch it with standard FeCl3 solution and it does remove copper layer but titanium layer stays.
My manufacturer said that they have problems with sourcing this material so batch of 16/20mm mosX/aluramic boards for IR LEDs is probably my last of this kind.
Does the supply shortage mean the “standard” MOSLED will be gone too?
ehh, just noticed my mistake… I meant the MOSLED, not the mosX/aluramic. I’ve been able to etch those with FeCl3 after removing the solder mask in select spots, although the bare alu needs to be masked off too. (It goes faster than the copper!)
I have not seen one proper 14mm DTP MCPCB available anywhere. Maybe you should consider making 100 or so. Even if they are expensive. It’s a special item, and what better place to stock it than at led4power.com
I have tried one of my 4-6 Amp LD-A4 drivers with a single SST-20 set at 4A high mode. I measured the tail current at only 3.73A, and voltage over the LED at 3.436V (which is spot on for 4A for this LED). This was on a fully charged NCR18650GA. I did not measure the current from the driver to the LED. Is the measured 3.73A tail current close to what the LED is getting? Something doesn’t make sense to me.
Your clamp ammeter is probably off by a little bit (somewhere in BLF I reported that UNI-T clamp meters can be off quite a bit, but I don't remember which thread it was), when I'm testing drivers (with 0.1% accurate Rigol DP811) currents are usually accurate within 1% in 99% of cases.
I doon't plan to stock that LED anymore, unless I find really good tint, but chance for that is close to zero based on my experience. LH35D is really nice LED overall, but it's not the best at anything (CRI,output,tint, overdriving...) so it's not very interesting for flashlight modders.
I’m using a Fluke 319 that can zero before DC measurement. When this driver was used with the Luxeon V it was set at 5A and I measured 4.946A. It’s strange, because the Fluke 319 is supposed to have a 1.6% tolerance on the 40A setting. I’ll do a further investigation….
I see, thank you for honest answer, appreciate a lot. I was very curious how it works dedomed, furtunatelly I have 2 spare left :smiling_imp: (but not much room for fails)