I bought 2 Spot lights from Aliexpress for some extra visibility on my Motorcycle, the quality of the Housing looks real solid, Surface finish & anodising appears decent enough. Light output from the 3 emitters says 30W total, I have no idea of the real lumen output.
After a quick test in the street the beam seems to have a reasonable throw and spill, I'm thinking a few more lumens would be the go.
I opened the housing and found two aluminium 46mm MCPCB's and thermal compund has been used on both PCB's I was kinda surprised at that !
Is it possible to ID that emitter from the close up pic ? they claim Cree but who knows whats installed.
The Beam shots are are not that great from my mobile phone but its approx 150 meters to the fence.
Any thoughts to a driver / emitter upgrades ? I see MTN electronics have a 46mm - SRK V2 FET + 7135 Driver is this something to consider or could I perhaps just replace the 3 existing emitters ?
40something mm across… wondering if the reflector/pcb from a Sofirn C8F would fit.
Problem is, the beastie will be current-regulated by the driver, so the only way to get “more lumens” out of ’em with the same current will be more efficient LEDs, and even then, the percentage increase might not even be visually noticeable.
Thanks lightbringer,
Actually the Sofirn C8F looks like a good deal, kinda got me thinking about buying that beast and Hot’n er up.
Its easy enough to machine up a new cap with a cable gland, will the driver handle a 12V input ? also the light would need to switch on and off everytime with the Hi Lo beam switch and not be fluff’n around flicking through all the different modes.
Could you show the link to those lights? They look pretty decent.
I’d guess that if you use any BLF driver (if there is one supporting 12V input) you’d have to have custom firmware, or at least it needs a full momentary mode. That is if you only want one mode and that mode needs to be controlled by high beam input.
I’m thinking about making 12V direct drive lights for my car. No driver, just resistors in series for current limiting, and a fuse. If the whole thing melts or the LEDs blow, so what, as long as the fuse blows if there is a short.
Nah, too inconsistent. On startup, you could be getting 14.5V system voltage, which would decrease to specced 13.8V or so under full load.
Ages ago, I had a 5” panel-meter (0-1mA movement) connected 24/7 and could see system voltage at a glance, even with everything off. Could even see the dips when the AC compressor solenoid would kick in (was defective, hence the current spike). Quite useful.
With so little “headroom” between LED voltage and system voltage, you’d be running dim lights when rails voltage was “normal”, and cooking them on startup.
Yeah, I know, but I did write “so what” The resistor in series can deal with some of the excessive voltage, and if the LEDs flicker or burn I couldn’t really care less. I’m not going to use these as a replacement for the existing car lights or use fancy expensive LEDs and drivers in them. These will just be add-ons for the hell of it. I’ve got plenty of LEDs to burn, and burn them I will! :smiling_imp:
Thanks! The casing looks pretty robust. Perfect chamber of death for my excessive stash of old LEDs.
“Product Features: The use of high-brightness chip, the original end of the brightness of the original car headlights, ignoring the high light DOG, minutes to teach a man, a bright road, high power 30W, 9v-70v support the use of any basic model can be installed”
The resistor in series can deal with some of the excessive voltage, and if the LEDs flicker or burn I couldn’t really care less. I’m not going to use these as a replacement for the existing car lights or use fancy expensive LEDs and drivers in them. These will just be add-ons for the hell of it. I’ve got plenty of LEDs to burn, and burn them I will! :smiling_imp: