FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

The very middle of each optic is frosted. Same deal in Sofirn C01S

Yeah the Wuben/Fireflies quad optic is much wider than a Carclo triple.

The KD triple optics I have are very throwy, and have almost a clear, “empty” looking spot right in the center of each individual optic. You can clearly see the emitter with no distortion/magnification I can see through the center. They don’t seem as efficient Carclo ones though, but that could be the light going into the wider spill vs Carclo narrow spot maybe? Hard to tell by the naked eye.

I didn’t know that Wuben and Fireflies used quads different from Carclo.
Same with Manker and Mateminco. Are those all the same optics?

Might want to check the diameter of the FW3A’s sink/center section and depth….also…. :wink:

The Wuben TO50R was supposed to use a carclo quad but they used this one instead, same TIR than the one of the FireFlies PL47.

Mateminco is using a different model.

Bah, someone set up the group buy for E07 15 degree lenses plz :slight_smile:

Thing is…….Will it fit inside the FW3A’s sink?

just a few Ti bezel mods, we are waiting…

Hahaaa! Ti Tubing…Ti Bezels and more…. :heart_eyes:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-TA2-Titanium-Tube-High-Intensity-OD-26mm-x-20mm-ID-Wall-3mm-x-500mm-Long/323440016049?hash=item4b4e86fab1:g:BrwAAOSwCGVX-vLK

I’m saving and waiting on a good rotary table/chuck…

Will you make a 18350 tube?
If so, I’m in :partying_face: :beer:

Me too!!! :stuck_out_tongue:

And me

I was literally just thinking this morning how nice being able to have an 18350 FW3A would be. Now I see I’m not alone.

I put in mine LH351D 4000K 90+CRI on Noctigon instead of xpl hi 7A.
Much better colour rendering. I will measure it later and add a pictures.
Mike

Glad that worked out well for you

Ti bezel and 18350 body would certainly jazz up my Cu units, I’m in!

So, I have some plans I want to try - I finally got myself to order a programming device. Background is, that I want to use the light mostly in momentary mode on turbo but be able to use regular modes if I need them.

  • Does anyone know if there is an unused input pin on the chip for a second switch?
  • Are there schematics online somewhere?
  • Are there just the PCBs available to buy for cheap maybe (cheap as in I don’t have to buy a whole FW3A if I fry a board)?

Anyway, here we go:

Plan A:

  • Alter firmware to make flashlight always be in momentary turbo mode, defining a sequence to leave it and go either into a slimmed down Anduril or some own modes. Turning the light off will make it be in momentary mode again.
  • This should be doable without any hardware modifications except desoldering and resoldering to get to the microcontroller - I think I can do that if I invest enough time to alter the firmware

Plan B1:

  • Alter hardware to add a secondary switch on the side. This secondary switch will be connected to the the pin the tail switch is now connected to, Tail switch will just go to turbo, bypassing the microcontroller
  • I don’t know yet if it’s possible to simply bypass the microcontroller for turbo
  • If it’s possible, the light won’t have any LVP in momentary mode anymore.
  • There is only momentary the tailswitch can do, nothing else and there is no easy way to change this.

Plan B2:

  • Alter hardware AND firmware to add a secondary switch on the side. This secondary switch will be connected either to a free pin of the controller or maybe via voltage divider trickery to the same pin as the tail switch
  • All functions should be doable via firmware
  • LVP should stay intact
  • This will require a load of work

I think I have the skills to rewrite code to make it work, but I lack mechanical abilities/tools/knowledge to fit a side switch into this thing. I could design and 3D print an outside part in ABS that can fit a switch and drill a hole for the cables (and order a metal 3D print if that works and i’m happy with it). I thought about replacing the whole middle part with the shelf with a metal 3D printed part but I don’t think this will work out because of the threads - metal 3D printing is not that exact.

But again, only if I find enough time and motivation to do so.

Was it hard to do the swap? I imagine it’s just desoldering the 4 wires, remove the top and bottom boards, and just reflow?
Just wondering if there are any hidden surprises or tips I should know before I do it. Thinking about putting some 219b sw35 in mine.

No need to remove the driver if that’s what you mean by bottom board.

If you have the later batch of FW3A they come with a small screw in the shelf and a divot on the underside of the MCPCB to keep it from spinning when you screw the bezel on. I would re-use this one if you are able for that reason. If you don’t want to re-use it you need to remove that screw so it sits flush.

If you have the very first batch of FW3A you can re-use the MCPCB or use an aftermarket one. After you have everything soldered back in place you might want to spin the MCPCB a quarter turn counter clockwise so when it spins while cranking the bezel it wont pull on the wires.

On mine they only used wires exactly as long as they needed to so if you use an aftermarket PCB where the wires are further out it may not reach without replacing them. YMMV.

So there aren’t 2 boards where the MCPCB is? One for the main emitters and one board for the secondary LEDs? I wasn’t referring to the driver. I have the first batch of FW3A I think.