Bah, someone set up the group buy for E07 15 degree lenses plz 
Thing is…….Will it fit inside the FW3A’s sink?
just a few Ti bezel mods, we are waiting…
Hahaaa! Ti Tubing…Ti Bezels and more…. :heart_eyes:
I’m saving and waiting on a good rotary table/chuck…
Will you make a 18350 tube?
If so, I’m in :partying_face: 
Me too!!! 
And me
I was literally just thinking this morning how nice being able to have an 18350 FW3A would be. Now I see I’m not alone.
I put in mine LH351D 4000K 90+CRI on Noctigon instead of xpl hi 7A.
Much better colour rendering. I will measure it later and add a pictures.
Mike
Glad that worked out well for you
Ti bezel and 18350 body would certainly jazz up my Cu units, I’m in!
So, I have some plans I want to try - I finally got myself to order a programming device. Background is, that I want to use the light mostly in momentary mode on turbo but be able to use regular modes if I need them.
- Does anyone know if there is an unused input pin on the chip for a second switch?
- Are there schematics online somewhere?
- Are there just the PCBs available to buy for cheap maybe (cheap as in I don’t have to buy a whole FW3A if I fry a board)?
Anyway, here we go:
Plan A:
- Alter firmware to make flashlight always be in momentary turbo mode, defining a sequence to leave it and go either into a slimmed down Anduril or some own modes. Turning the light off will make it be in momentary mode again.
- This should be doable without any hardware modifications except desoldering and resoldering to get to the microcontroller - I think I can do that if I invest enough time to alter the firmware
Plan B1:
- Alter hardware to add a secondary switch on the side. This secondary switch will be connected to the the pin the tail switch is now connected to, Tail switch will just go to turbo, bypassing the microcontroller
- I don’t know yet if it’s possible to simply bypass the microcontroller for turbo
- If it’s possible, the light won’t have any LVP in momentary mode anymore.
- There is only momentary the tailswitch can do, nothing else and there is no easy way to change this.
Plan B2:
- Alter hardware AND firmware to add a secondary switch on the side. This secondary switch will be connected either to a free pin of the controller or maybe via voltage divider trickery to the same pin as the tail switch
- All functions should be doable via firmware
- LVP should stay intact
- This will require a load of work
I think I have the skills to rewrite code to make it work, but I lack mechanical abilities/tools/knowledge to fit a side switch into this thing. I could design and 3D print an outside part in ABS that can fit a switch and drill a hole for the cables (and order a metal 3D print if that works and i’m happy with it). I thought about replacing the whole middle part with the shelf with a metal 3D printed part but I don’t think this will work out because of the threads - metal 3D printing is not that exact.
But again, only if I find enough time and motivation to do so.
Was it hard to do the swap? I imagine it’s just desoldering the 4 wires, remove the top and bottom boards, and just reflow?
Just wondering if there are any hidden surprises or tips I should know before I do it. Thinking about putting some 219b sw35 in mine.
No need to remove the driver if that’s what you mean by bottom board.
If you have the later batch of FW3A they come with a small screw in the shelf and a divot on the underside of the MCPCB to keep it from spinning when you screw the bezel on. I would re-use this one if you are able for that reason. If you don’t want to re-use it you need to remove that screw so it sits flush.
If you have the very first batch of FW3A you can re-use the MCPCB or use an aftermarket one. After you have everything soldered back in place you might want to spin the MCPCB a quarter turn counter clockwise so when it spins while cranking the bezel it wont pull on the wires.
On mine they only used wires exactly as long as they needed to so if you use an aftermarket PCB where the wires are further out it may not reach without replacing them. YMMV.
So there aren’t 2 boards where the MCPCB is? One for the main emitters and one board for the secondary LEDs? I wasn’t referring to the driver. I have the first batch of FW3A I think.
There would be.
Except that the FW3A does not have any secondary LEDs.
If you want secondary LEDs in your FW3A you have to buy a custom secondary LED board from Lexel. That custom board sits on the star just like the aux LED board on a D4v2 or E07.
Did you buy a modded one with secondary LEDs or are you mistaken?
If the secondary LEDs are those “dragon” type they will be on the same board as the main LEDs so you would want to re-use that board and leave them on during re flow. I guess this is why you said 4 wires.
I’m so stupid… I was totally thinking about my D4v2… wanted to swap the emitters on that one.
Ignore my previous messages… haha.
I’m interesting in how you fare doing the D4v2. It does have an aux board but it seems like to me the most tricky thing would be fitting those 4-5 wires (edit: 6!) back through the MCPCB hole after they have soaked up some solder making the wires stiff. Seems like there’s barely enough room as is.
D4v2
No problem. I was kinda thinking that was the case actually.
My D4v2 hasn’t arrived yet, but my understanding is it uses an Aux LED board that sits on top of the main board.
- There are 4 thin wires connected to the aux LED board. All 4 must be desoldered.
- Then lift off the aux LED board to get access to the star, which has the normal 2 wires.
- Use a fine-tip soldering iron for the aux LED connections and a heavier tip for desoldering the star.
- Before desoldering, take pictures so you know the proper pads to resolder each of those 4 wires.
If you’re having trouble threading all 6 wires through the hole in the star, do the following:
- Solder a long narrow gauge guide wire onto the end of each of the original wires. A couple inches should be enough for each guide wire.
- Thread the guidewires through the hole in the star.
- Slide the star down along the guidewires until in position on the shelf. Use the guidewires to pull the original wires through the hole.
- Desolder the guidewires.
Swapping emitters is quite doable on lights with aux LED boards, but it is a much more complex operation than doing so on a light without the aux LED board. Leave lots of time for the project and take a slow and methodical approach.