The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

If the government tells you that 2+2=5, then that's what it is.

Hey Jason, thanks again for the replies!
Bummer that there are not small drivers for these kind of things :zipper_mouth_face:

The driver is custom shaped and has 14.3mm diameter and then some wings that make it go to 15mm.
But a shaved 15mm driver would make the job!

Then the LED pcb is also very small, like 12mm diameter, but the pill allows for something more!
I will have to explore what the host allows me to do, and seek what drivers vs Leds will fit the mod!!

Thanks again for the reply!

If anyone else has a hint on these stooooid questions of mine, please let me know :wink:

Can anyone tell me what I’m doing wrong? This is the first time I held a DMM and I can’t seem to measure current. I followed the manual to the dot but nothing is happening.

If it helps:

- I tried to set the dial to microamps and switched the red lead to the right port and it seems to work fine(as in the light lights up but can’t measure anything because it’s overloading).

- I watched djozz’s video as well as a reference.

- The light is a Convoy S2+, biscotti, 6x7135.

  • I set it to DC mode(it shows in the LDC but it was hard to capture on the phone one-handed)

Note: Image shows the DMM in a negative value even though the leads are not touching anything

Don’t exceed the amperage rating for the ports as you can blow fuses and the correct fuses are hard to find.

Everything looks fine. With that type of light you have to connect and then disconnect reconnect fast like a half press of a tail switch to cycle modes.

Make sure the one lead is touching clean, raw aluminum.

My meter reads the same regardless of polarity. You can try switching the leads around to see if it makes a difference with your meter.

Is the flashlight turning on?

Thanks for the feedback JasonWW.

I tried connecting the negative end of the battery with some wire laying around and connected it to where the red lead is touching and it turned on so I assume that’s a correct place to put it?

It didn’t when I did it before. Just keeps showing a negative value from 0.2-0.5mA.

It doesn’t turn on at all. I’m not sure if it’s my lack of knowledge or the DMM is just defective. Voltage measures fine though.

You might have blown a fuse inside or the fuse might be missing on the 10A side.

Keep in mind that DMM are only good for measuring low currents accurately. Above a couple amps they can be off by a lot. For accuracy you want to use a clamp style ammeter. I only use my DMM ammeter for moonlight levels and parasitic drain measurements.

I see, I’ll try opening it up. Thanks for helping me out!

Edit: Confirmed it was a blown fuse. There was 2 inside and swapped it for the one in the micro amp one and its working now. Still need to find a new one though. Thanks Jason!

One thing you learn quick about DMM’s is that you keep your probes plugged into the voltage holes.

When you put the probes in the amperage holes to measure something, put them back on the voltage holes as soon as your done. If you forget and then go measure a batteries voltage, the fuse will blow right away. :person_facepalming: After you do that a few times and have to order special fuses you learn not to do it any more. It’s a real pain in the rear.

No, because “3” already has an intrinsic and local value equal to 1+1+1.

+1 this

This is why I have two DMM’s dedicated to Amp measurements only :person_facepalming:

BTW, those Aneng DMM’s are pretty precice. Considering the price.
I have an Aneng 8004 that’s only used for milli/microAmp/parasitic drain measurement. Compared to a calibrated Fluke DMM, the yA are “only” off by 1-2yA :student:

Anyone having facebook problems atm

> if the government tells you ….

Not Indiana: Indiana Pi Bill - Wikipedia

I’ve got a couple potentially stupid questions.

1) I’ve got a utorch lantern/bug zapper that takes a 18650. It has a sleeve inside that when removed it looks like it can fit a 21700. Will this break the light? isn’t the voltage the same?

2) Simon already said no, but if I had a convoy m3 that takes one 26500 battery and found a long enough tube to fit two 26500’s would it break the light? why?

Thanks!

1/ 21700 batteries are fairly new, and predominantly used in high-end flashlights. That’s why I think this sleeve is meant to fill the space needed for a 3*AAA battery carrier. Those have a diameter of a bit over 22.6mm.
Edit: a 21700 has the same voltage as an 18650, that does not hurt a bit. But I may be too long to fit.

2/ 2 batteries “in a row” have a voltage of 2*4.2V = 8.4V. You fry the driver when that is built for 1*4.2V.

I bet a 26650 battery may fit

And yes two batteries stacked together results in 8 volts instead of 4 volts

I found the perfect holster for the emisar d4s, I just received it today. It is a pistol magazine/flashlight holster I found at my local academy

Any way I can upload a pic on here to share? I may find the link on academy’s website and copy and paste it but I’d rather show you guys how perfect of a fit it is!!!

thanks everyone! there will be more.

You can’t directly upload photos to BLF. You’ll need to upload them to a photo-sharing site and post a link.

It’s not complicated. Here’s a how-to guide put together by BLF member ‘raccoon city.’

I recommend using imgur.com as the host site. It’s easy and you don’t need to create an account.