Lumintop GT micro

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mgracia85
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Question, I ordered mine on March 1st and received email from Neal when I emailed him that it was shipped on the 17 yet when I check the tracking, it still says label not yet created. Should I email Neal?

I love my wife’s toy poodle

Tom E
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I would email Neal on that...

 

So, I re-assembled the light, reflowed a black flat on the stock MCPCB. Didn't check amps but with fumbling around with getting it centered, I was able to hit 112 kcd measured at 5 meters. It still has a black spot in the middle at closer than 4 feet from the wall, but looks pretty good outdoors. I'm using a decent performing Imren 700 BT cell. It gets pretty hot quick so the amps are probably up there. It's got a fairly large corona, but this is the first black flat (or white flat) mod I've done.

I used kapton tape around the LED (no centering piece), and believe it or not, silicone wire inside around the base, and between the glass and reflector to center it and get more downward pressure.

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Tom E wrote:

I would email Neal on that…


 


So, I re-assembled the light, reflowed a black flat on the stock MCPCB. Didn’t check amps but with fumbling around with getting it centered, I was able to hit 112 kcd measured at 5 meters. It still has a black spot in the middle at closer than 4 feet from the wall, but looks pretty good outdoors. I’m using a decent performing Imren 700 BT cell. It gets pretty hot quick so the amps are probably up there. It’s got a fairly large corona, but this is the first black flat (or white flat) mod I’ve done.


I used kapton tape around the LED (no centering piece), and believe it or not, silicone wire inside around the base, and between the glass and reflector to center it and get more downward pressure.


112kCd is a sweet number ! Mine does 105, but at only 3,2A…
I ordered some Enercig 14500 on nkon.eu, they should be able to sustain 4 or 5 amperes, throw might be interesting then !
Could you check the current drain on yours ?

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Tom E
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Can't yet measure amps, this evening. I'd suspect mine is more like 4-5 amps based on how fast it warms up. Measuring at 5 meters  is tricky though, should be easier at 10+ meters.

Some more pics:

All cleaned up, glue removed, red wire replaced::

FET lurking under the MCU:

black flat mounted. You see what I mean by the paint? Tried scraping it off at the top shown below but couldn't expose any color/coating underneath:

The centering piece is too small of an opening to fit this LED, so:

See the red wire? It helped in centering and focusing, still not perfect:

teacher
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Great pictures Tom E, thanks for posting!! Thumbs Up

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Lonelydad
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Tom E wrote:

I would email Neal on that…


 


So, I re-assembled the light, reflowed a black flat on the stock MCPCB. Didn’t check amps but with fumbling around with getting it centered, I was able to hit 112 kcd measured at 5 meters. It still has a black spot in the middle at closer than 4 feet from the wall, but looks pretty good outdoors. I’m using a decent performing Imren 700 BT cell. It gets pretty hot quick so the amps are probably up there. It’s got a fairly large corona, but this is the first black flat (or white flat) mod I’ve done.



I don’t see a black spot, but I do see a yellow tint in the center of the beam. Not obnoxious or anything, but just there.
I’m running an Efest purple button top. 650 mah, 6+ amp continuous draw.
I really like this light. It feels a little weird in my hand at first, since I’m used to my Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 and my Sofirn C01s, but it works just fine. I ordered the holster with it, and am looking forward to wearing it on my belt for EDC for a while.
It’s getting dark out now, so heading outside to do side by sides with my GT Mini and the Lumintop Tool AA 2.0.
PS: I got mine a couple of days ago. It seemed to get hung up in LA for several days but it’s here so I’m happy.

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blueb8llz
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teacher wrote:
blueb8llz wrote:
My windyfire and purple efest unprotecteds will not work. But my Vapcells do work.
Are your WindyFires button top or flat top?

Windy fires are buttontop and efest are flat. I tried the windyfires again and in fact they do work. I dunno why it didn’t work the first time. I’m pretty sure I had the tail cap fully tightened. Maybe the body wasn’t.
The windy fires have an extra 100 Lumens on start up vs the Vapcell. But I still prefer the Vapcell because of the 1000 mah.

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blueb8llz wrote:
teacher wrote:
blueb8llz wrote:
My windyfire and purple efest unprotecteds will not work. But my Vapcells do work.
Are your WindyFires button top or flat top?
Windy fires are buttontop and efest are flat. I tried the windyfires again and in fact they do work. I dunno why it didn’t work the first time. I’m pretty sure I had the tail cap fully tightened. Maybe the body wasn’t.
The windy fires have an extra 100 Lumens on start up vs the Vapcell. But I still prefer the Vapcell because of the 1000 mah.
Ok.. thanks for the info. Thumbs Up
I gotta get me a couple of those Vapcell 1000 mAh.. that extra capacity sounds good. And just loosing 100 lumens is not to bad given the extra capacity.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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orbit308
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Has anyone tried an xhp50 3v in the micro yet?

I love this light, perfect for EDC on the belt.

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orbit308 wrote:
Has anyone tried an xhp50 3v in the micro yet?

I love this light, perfect for EDC on the belt.


Doesn’t make sense… You would have to find a 14500 that is able to deliver more than 8A to justify the XHP50 over the SST40

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But then again, the 3V 50.2 can deliver far more lumens than the SST-40, soooooo, a top 14500 pushing a 3V 50.2 should give an interesting boost over the use of an SST-40, AND a sliced and diced 50.2 would be even more interesting! Wink

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Neal is sending me a replacement head, so the long wait begins again Smile

Nothing back from Neal. I have chased him twice. I guess its Paypal dispute time.

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SKV89
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I just noticed Vapcell released a 14500 650mah 7A button top battery 7A CDR, 13A max discharge current. Seems to be the best high drain 14500 available on the market. I previously bought their 14500 1000mah batteries, which is the best high capacity 14500 on the market, and I tested them to be legit specs.

Has anyone done any measurements with this battery on their GT Micro or with a similar high drain battery? I’m wondering if the new Vapcell will be able to manage 4.5A in this light. Thinking of buying one to put a White Flat in there.

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im having a problem with my micro, it was working fine and then i swapped in a sst-20 and the led was staying on all the time, i thought yeah some short somewhere maybe its the reflector but nah and then i was like well might be the led wires touching on the mcpcb or something so decided to remove the driver and replace the led wires but nah yeah still the led stays on. so i was like ok maybe the head is touching something so i took the whole driver out and powered it up and led still on always. so i dunno its beyond me at this point, any ideas would be great.

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That is rather odd, generally that is a sign of a bad 7135 but it is strange that it only started happening after the LED swap. Generally excess heat or voltage would kill the 7135.

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i tried to get the 2 boards apart but it seemed to difficult, i might try again and replace the 7135. would a short cause that kind of damage to the 7135 chip if i did something unknowingly? it seems to function normally during ramping and blinks where it would normally blink at the top of regulation, its got anduril.

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A short could possibly damage the 7135 just not as common.

You will need to de-solder the brass bars that hold the PCB’s together in order to take them apart. You will need a hot air gun to do both of them at the same time I am pretty sure.

Worst case you might be able to get a replacement driver from lumintop.

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What’s the best 14500 for a Osram 1mm^2 White Flat GT Micro?

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Ryzbor wrote:
What’s the best 14500 for a Osram 1mm^2 White Flat GT Micro?

I bought this ones for mine, 6A current capability and cheap as well

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SKV89 wrote:
I just noticed Vapcell released a 14500 650mah 7A button top battery 7A CDR, 13A max discharge current. Seems to be the best high drain 14500 available on the market. I previously bought their 14500 1000mah batteries, which is the best high capacity 14500 on the market, and I tested them to be legit specs.

Has anyone done any measurements with this battery on their GT Micro or with a similar high drain battery? I’m wondering if the new Vapcell will be able to manage 4.5A in this light. Thinking of buying one to put a White Flat in there.

Where did you find the new 14500? I also have the 1000mAh one and the efest purple

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look what i saw on mad max fb page… gt nano is coming soon Big Smile

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I got the GT nano prototype the other day. The first design was not giving the output I expected so made a few changes that should improve things.

Trying to pick the LED for this light actually. The white flat is interesting but sourcing them can be hard and only CW tint.

What is the best version of the white flat model number wise to have them look for it? I loose track of all those flat LED model numbers.

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KW CSLNM1-TG.

That is the 3030-size small die (1mm2) version that you want for a mini-thrower like this.

Mind that this led needs a different than usual centerpiece to fit the 3030-size led.

It is at least available at all the “western” sellers Mouser, Digikey, RS. And our led4power.com of course.

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Great, thanks for that. I have passed it on so we will see what they come up with.

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I just tested the GT Micro with the known best 14500 cells on the market. The new Shockli 14500 1000 mah matches the output of the previous king of high current 14500, Windyfire 600mah but with much more capacity. Very impressive. The output with these cells make this light almost as bright as the GT Mini and D1S. The Shockli also beats Sanyo UR14500P by a large margin, which was the previous best overall 14500.

The GT Micro just became much more interesting.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1539656#comment-1539656

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thanks for sharing your findings! 

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nassagus, check to be sure your emitter isn’t grounding on the negative pad at the MCPCB, a small solder ball from the re-flow can do this. Use a multi-meter to check at the bottom of the MCPCB and the negative pad, if it has continuity you need to re-flow the emitter again. Wink

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