I just now saw your post. Sorry I didn’t get back here sooner.
I’ll try to help if I can, I think I understand the output side of the driver but all the components for controlling the rotary position sensor I never tried to figure out because it only controls the amount of output in relation to the magnets positioning to the 316BCG, not the peak output.
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The second smaller coil on the bottom in the my first pic, I think is just part of a boost circuit to supply enough voltage to the 316BCG. The 316BCG from the datasheet requires 4.5v min to operate. If it’s bad then there will be no light. I replaced one that had that same problem.
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There are two magnets glued in the control ring that move with the control ring that changes in position in relation to the north and south axis of the 316BCG. As they move the 316BCG pics that movement up and relays the position to a mcu which in turn outputs so much current according to that position, which I think is programmed in the mcu firmware. The jetbeam rotary lights seem to have the same circuit but offer a strobe mode and sos with a double turn to high and a triple turn to high for sos. Pretty sure thats just being picked up in firmware just like a double tap for high in Narsil with a e-switch.
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I would check the two magnets in the control ring and the small coil if you think it’s not connected. If you can reconnect it even if you can just solder the winding wire to the pads to see if it will work might help. Then you could find a replacement coil and reflow the new one on.
The magnets also have a north and south, if you get them out of sink or in the wrong way the position sensor will not work correctly. Takes a little experimenting to figure out which way they go. There tiny too, so be careful where you open the light up and try not to lose them.
Just shoot me a PM if you need any further help.
Great post! Was thinking about to get one V10R…
The V10R has been discontinued for some time now. You can find them used every now and then on ebay or here on the forum.
The V11R can still be found in a few places. Sunwayman V11R CREE XM-L2 U2 Variable Output 1 x CR123 / 1 x AA 500 Lu?
Sweeeeet!
Thx Mod!
Capacitors C2012×7R0J106M125AB https://www.arrow.com/en/products/c2012×7r0j106m125ab/tdk
Looks like not avail at arrow anymore. What would be next one in their offering? I’m a huge noob in electronics…
You may order Samsung CL21B106KOQNNNE at Arrow instead.
You would need only one of these 22uf instead of using two 10uf paralleled, just swap the original out. Should work just as good, two paralleled that microa recommended will work also.
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/c2012x5r1a226k125ab/tdk
Thx guys! Cart has been updated.
Gotta question regarding V11R’s…they are XML reflector lights, so how is the beam with XPG size emitters? What’s the size of the MCPCB?
Just to know what to expect when i get “11”
The bean looks to me decent with the LH351D 3535 emitter.
The MCPCB size is 12mm. This is the only place that I found at the time that had them. https://ogazent.com/store/leds/xp-g2-led-on-12mm-copper-star/
Relow the xp-g2 off and use the 3535 emitter of your choice. The xp-g2 1A would be a little to much on the cool side for me 6500k.
Finally got my V11R and V10R Ti.
V11R works great but V10R Ti doesn't want to ramp on primaries and on liions ramp suddenly almost at the max setting.
This thread is perfect, now Ti will be tuned. Hopefully it will resolve primary cell issue as well 
Only components to arrive in few days and i'm ready to go.
Will post update of my mod (not so soon)
If someone's looking for these oldtimers here's the link:
http://sunwayman.eu/lang-en/6-v-series
These are with XPG emitters so no need to hassle with extra MCPCB, straight forward emitter swap
If you have had the head apart, I would check to make sure the magnets are installed with the correct polarity.
If you had them out it takes a little trial and error to figure out which way they go back in for correct operation.
Once I figure out the correct arrangement, I usually add a drop of UV glue and blast them with the Convoy S2 UV light.
Sweet! Need to check that part! Since i’ve got a user without letters on the bezel i’d say it was taken apart…
Does anyone know if the electronics are all the same in V10A/V20A/V10R/V11R?
I believe so… Don’t have V10A nor V20A but i think only battery tubes are different
Moderator could confirm this
I dont have a V10A or a V20A but they are both rotary lights that appear to be the same rotary controlled… When I tested the driver it would work down to .7v if I remember correctly. So since 1 is a AA light and the other is a 2AA light and a rotary variable, I would say yes since both those fall in the boost/direct drive drivers range. The lumen output also looks to be about on par with both lights from the voltage input from my testing. I would say it’s probably the same driver.
Did you ever get round to the lighted tail switch mod? Any pics?
Don’t have any pics, sorry. The convoy lighted tail cap switches fit with a little filing to the clear washer. I think if I remember right, the switch fits right in but the clear washer had to be filed until the extra lip was almost gone. You lose the momentary function by changing out the switches.
These are the switches I have used. https://www.fasttech.com/products/1608/10047923/9627747-switch-tail-cap-set-for-diy-flashlight-3-pieces
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I have used the original switch and glued on the resistors and leds and made all the appropriate connections keeping the momentary switch function. But it’s time consuming and teidous soldering. I also built one GFS16 switch with the led board and installed in the V11R. GFS16 - Battery Indicator Tailcap Light & 1mR FET Tailswitch! (Rev B)
The led board can also be installed on the original switch with a little filing and wiring.
Gchart also has a led battery indicator board that may fit also, I haven’t tried it yet but the dimensions are close. Gchart board 15.8mm, V11R switch 16.6mm. It should work setting gchart’s board on the original switch and wiring to the appropriate places.
D.I.Y. Illuminated Tailcap - gChart Editions - #141 by gchart
You will need the clear switch boot. I believe the Kaidomain 14mm x 8mm is the one I use.
http://kaidomain.com/Flashlight-DIY-and-Tools/silicone-tailcaps/14mm-D-x-8mm-H-Silicone-Tailcaps-5pcs
Thanks for the update and all the links!
Does anyone know how to fix the blinking problem for the M11R when the light is off?
I am not aware of what blinking problem you are experiencing.
Maybe describe, or post a video, showing what you mean.
Have you tried a fresh battery?