I didn’t do anything special. Opened it up, tossed a GA inside, and play with it every now and again. It did see some pocket time on Sunday, but only a couple hours. Other than that it’s been sitting on my desk bezel down when I’m not using it.
Edit: hit reply instead of quote
wow thats really good looking… looks like wood haha.
Beautiful!
Just got a shipping notification that my FW3A grey/7A light has shipped. Thanks Neal for making sure that we got the lights at their best!
I have seen a number of Cree datasheets over time, in which all emitters at 3000K were 80 CRI minimum, and wrongfully concluded that it was true for all Cree emitters, sorry about that. At least it is true for the XP-L Hi, which is used in the FW3A.
My FW3C SST-20 4000K 95CRI beauty just got in today:
Left: XP-L HI 3D —————————————————————————-SST-20 4000K 95CRI (both on medium mode)
nice pair, will be fun to have 2lights and one in copper 
i like the sst20 tint.
Has anyone else put the UCL lens on an SST-20? Do you have before and after shots? Still waiting on mine, so I am stuck living vicariously through those of you who have received theirs.
Probably has been asked. How does the new lens configuration effect OTF lumens?
For those with the FW3A and it’s “heavy” switch action, and awaiting or has the FW3C with its “light” switch action, consider swapping the switches. I found that the heavy switch goes well with the heavy light, and vice versa… There’s just something it does to my mind. When I pick up the heavy light, I appreciate the heavy switch action,and also vice versa.
I didnt do anything scientific but I was pretty sure when I pulled both switches they were identical and the difference was actually how the tail opening was milled and the sizing of the nub was slightly trimmed. So if you moved the rubber gasket and nub that would make sense but if you only moved the metal tail it doesn’t make sense to me.
Sorry for the link, but I’m not sure if Google Photos can host pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pjRv6g6DWEBV4KF48
I swapped everything around. From the switch, to the rubber boot, to the metal button. Exact same feeling, swapped around. Loving it.
I posted measurements for both here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/c6vfe5/review_lumintop_fw3a_sst20_with_colour/
Mine just randomly showed up today! DHL and USPS never showed any tracking. A few observations.
The UCL lens does nice but minor changes to the tint.
The SST-20 is very neutral considering it’s CRI is great!
My nubbin stays in the boot and is not apt to jumping out.
My rear spring is soldered nicely, there is plenty of clearance over the trace, all three pads are soldered flat, and the sharp of the spring is on a pad.
The switch was nice and clean, I just replaced the kapton tape with mine which is wide enough to cover the entire metal switch.
I did need to slightly move the driver. When tightening the head tight it would switch on it’s own, when just snug it was fine though.
There was some solder running around freely under the optic. I used a nylon spudger and carefully removed both pieces. Everything else looked fairly clean, but I will clean once I have cotton swabs.
The switch feels really nice, but is a bit sensitive. I will be trying some stuff mentioned to tune it.
That greenish XPL HI is definitely not a 3D tint. I have 3A and 3D tint and there is no green at all. My 5A and 5D tint Cree emitters are rosier than the SST20 FD2. Lumintop probably got duped by their supplier
That’s unfortunately the best explanation I’ve heard for why the “3D” on the FW3A looks so gross.
Just remember the camera lies , why am I defending the FW3a ,I hate everything about it
UCL lens usually doesn’t change tint “that” much unless the stock lens bumps up the DUV significantly. The UCL lens basically measures about the same as no lens in terms of tint change. To see how much rosier it would be to swap in a UCL lens, I take tint measurements of with and without stock lens. If DUV drops then that means it’s worth it to get the UCL lens. Most flashlights will see about a –0.0005 to –0.0020 reduction in DUV making for a rosier tint. An exception is the Emisar/Noctigon series lights that see about no change in DUV. I think the lens Hank uses is the same as the UCL lens. Another proof that Hank uses premium quality parts.
Just recieved tracking for mine today.
