Best 2AA light out there

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ActiveAl
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brad wrote:
Why not a AA headlamp and a AAA to AA adapter. A headlamp is just a flashlight and is fine for holding in the hand for short tasks, and if you are using a flashlight long enough to get annoyed at holding it, then a headlamp makes great sense. I would also throw in a super long running moonlight mode AAA light for use as a nightlight, etc. for a situation where the electricity is not working. If you get the AA light then be sure and throw a dummy cell AA and 2 AAA to AA adapters into the bag.

 

I agree that a headlamp is arguably the most useful flashlight that you can have for many circumstances. For example, changing a car tire. If I could only own one flashlight, it would have to be a headlamp. However, they can be awkward to keep with you on a belt or in a pocket. If you EDC a small tube flashlight like a single 14500/AA, then you can put it in your mouth if you need both hands free for a few minutes.   

mgracia85
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What ya think about the thrunite archer 1A or 2A?

I love my wife’s toy poodle

jerm03
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Lightbringer wrote:
The only multi-AA lights I have are the SF11 and TK4A. Great for eating multiple cells at a time, but they have the same issue as any multi-cell lights: leakage. One cell will always burn down faster’n the other, and you’ll still be getting usable light while that weak-link is oozing its corrosive guts all over your light’s innards.

Me personally, I’d stick with single-AA lights, ‘cause you might scrounge up 1 cell, but there’s no guarantee there’ll be 2.

That said, the Zanflare F2 seems to fit the bill, ‘though I don’t have one to comment on it.

Otherwise, a 2×AA Maglite with LED drop-in (or match-mod) should be more’n sufficient.

Hi Lightbringer,
Why not use Nimh batteries?
That would solve the leakage problem??
Jerry

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Squidboy wrote:
My initial reaction was Fenix TK20, but that shows my age. So the nearest alternative would be olight s2a baton

TK20 is my first pick also. It may seem dated to these whippersnappers but it’s a well made, reliable light. I’ve got the diffuser and it comes out every Halloween at a minimum.
Would be good for whacking zombies with also. Solid light.
ActiveAl
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mgracia85 wrote:
What ya think about the thrunite archer 1A or 2A?

I like the single 14500/AA flashlight form factor, but don't own a Thrunite Archer 1A because: (1) it has mode memory, (2) it would be cumbersome for me to turn it on with the tail switch and then change modes with the side switch, and (3) it is relatively expensive compared to say a Sofirn SF14 or Thorfire TGO6S. But this assessment mostly boils down to my personal preferences. I DO like the fact that the Archer 1A has a 0.1 lumen Firefly mode and a forward-clicky tail switch for momentary On. What do you think of the 1A? I have never seriously considered the 2A.   

Lightbringer
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ActiveAl wrote:
I own a Zanflare F2 but never use it because the strobe mode is in the normal rotation – not hidden. The modes are Low→Med→High→Strobe. So going from High to Low requires a dose of self-inflict strobe.  It also has mode memory which I don’t care for.

Ugh. That would drive me bonzo. Same reason I don’t use my Folomov, because of the high→low order with strobe in rotation. Other’n that, it’s a great light in every other way, just the UI kills it.

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Lightbringer
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jerm03 wrote:
Lightbringer wrote:
The only multi-AA lights I have are the SF11 and TK4A. Great for eating multiple cells at a time, but they have the same issue as any multi-cell lights: leakage. One cell will always burn down faster’n the other, and you’ll still be getting usable light while that weak-link is oozing its corrosive guts all over your light’s innards.
Why not use Nimh batteries? That would solve the leakage problem??

Acto the OP, he wanted AA lights because:

Quote:
So that got me thinking that my best bet would be a AA light cause I figure I might be able to find some scattered around because of their popularity. I decided 2AA would be best cause it would give me enough juice for whatever situation I find myself in.

As for me, I unearthed over a hunnert alkaleaks that I’m loathe to throw out, even if they are hateful little batteries.

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SKV89
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The best 2xAA flashlight I’ve used is the Thrunite Archer 2A v3. I found out about it reading the best flashlight article by theWireCutter
It is very bright and their lumen rating is legit and not exaggerated.

The brightest 2xAA is the Armytek Partner A2 Pro, which I measured 630 lumens for the WW version with my TA lumen sphere. The tint is beautiful if you like WW/NW. The Prime A2 Pro for some reason measures significantly less probably because of the optics. The only thing I don’t like about the Partner A2 Pro is that it lacks tail standing ability whereas the Archer 2A does.

G0OSE
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Enderman wrote:
Do people actually believe in that zombie BS or are they just joking?

They already do exist…… I see them every day walking the streets with their faces glued to a phone screen whilst walking in to me, or out in front of cars etc with completely blank emotionless faces.
They may not be trying to eat me yet, but they are out there in their millions! Wink
ActiveAl
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I just purchased an UltraTac A1 off of Amazon for 10.75 using the 10% discount code of SS6TRV2E. There are not many Amazon reviews for this flashlight, but the couple I read are pretty in-depth.Also check out this BLF thread, and also these two YouTube videos:  (1) UltrTac A1 Flashlight Kit Review!,  (2) Ultratac A1 Flashlight Review

 

This flashlight is very similar to the Lumintop Tool in size, construction, performance, modes, and it even comes with a diffuser. Here are the outputs::

 

     Lumens
Battery Low Med Med
14500 20 280 600
AA 1 30 220

 

This would be a great bug out single AA light IMHO because it provides a battery conserving and discrete 1 lumen Low mode as well as a very robust 220 lumen High mode, if needed. Additionally, it would be very easy to carry because of its size and weight. It has no mode memory and always starts up in Low mode.

klrman
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Enderman wrote:
Do people actually believe in that zombie BS or are they just joking?

 

Zombies among us now...............the newer generation with their smartphones......duuuuuuuuhhhhhhh..... must load app............duuuuhhhhh....press..press...click.click  (tongue-and-cheek )

pennzy
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Thumbs Up
klrman wrote:

Enderman wrote:
Do people actually believe in that zombie BS or are they just joking?

 


Zombies among us now……………the newer generation with their smartphones……duuuuuuuuhhhhhhh….. must load app…………duuuuhhhhh….press..press…click.click

flyboy
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Paul321 wrote:
mgracia85 wrote:
My money is on living people with viruses. It just seems more plausible. So in that case, according to the movie “I am legend” the more lumens the better Steve

I am Legend is a re-make of the Omega Man – a far better film IMO but I am showing my age.

The Nitecore MT22A comes to mind, I personally don’t have one (yet) but it is a double AA. I like the side by side configuration.

RIGHT!

It Is A Fine and Pleasant Madness

flyboy
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Pete7874 wrote:
Zulumoose wrote:
Get a couple of AAA to AA converter cases for the bugout bag as well, they weigh nothing but double your chances of getting compatible backup batteries from any source.

In that case, consider a light that runs on C cells as well. Being the least popular battery size, it’s likely to sell out last in an apocalypse. Smile

And you can use adapters to convert from C to AA and to AAA.

Granted, I don’t know of any nice C lights out there. Maybe some Maglite?

Thumbs Up Maglite has a two nice 3C lights…one the “old timey” Alkaline/incandescent model, that can be upgraded with a drop-in LED bulb. But, they are hard to come by., Or, for about $40, they build a very nice LED 3 C model. Lighter than the Incand model, don’t feel as rugged as the other…and probably, less utility as an impact weapon. Had one, returned it. Streamlight, I think it is, offers a couple of LED C cell lights. Utilitarian, not really great throwers, but very capable. Smile

It Is A Fine and Pleasant Madness

flyboy
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Just bought one! Waiting to see what sort of product I get. Glasses

It Is A Fine and Pleasant Madness

fariflash
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1A flashlight: ThruNite Archer 1A V3
2A flashlight: Nitecore MT2A LED Flashlight.
Here is my favorite 2aa flashlight list
Although, I am a big fan of Thrunite v3 aa flashlight.

,

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You can read about the Sofirn SF13 here:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60050

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SKV89 wrote:
The brightest 2xAA is the Armytek Partner A2 Pro, which I measured 630 lumens for the WW version with my TA lumen sphere. The tint is beautiful if you like WW/NW.

How do you like the color rendering index (CRI)? In a YouTube video, a guy walks in the woods with a Partner A2 Pro. The tint, he says, is warm white. But to my eyes, the woods looked like a colorless moon. I commented as much. The video maker said the CRI looks a lot better in real life.
I have a hard time believing that a warm white light in a V5 or V6 bin can generate over 600 lumens out the front AND have high CRI.
My two 4300K XM-L2 lights use a modest T6 bin. They have a high CRI. But they’ll still no match for a Nichia 219C.
My 4300K XM-L2 light in U2 bin is incrementally brighter than my T6s. But its CRI is incrementally lower.

1xAA: EagleTac D25A (Nichia 219C)

2xAA: five EagleTac D25A2 Clicky (Nichia 219C); EagleTac D25A2 Tactical (XM-L2 T6); Jaxman M2 (XM-L2 T6)

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I keep somewhat dated 2AA lights in one of my BOBs: a Klarus P2A and a Jetbeam BA20. A quad of standard Eneloops and some Energizer Ultimates round things out.

They’re two mode twisties (250/30LM,) but they get the job done.

I got them almost seven years back.

Chris

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Paul_in_Maryland wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
The brightest 2xAA is the Armytek Partner A2 Pro, which I measured 630 lumens for the WW version with my TA lumen sphere. The tint is beautiful if you like WW/NW.
How do you like the color rendering index (CRI)? In a YouTube video, a guy walks in the woods with a Partner A2 Pro. The tint, he says, is warm white. But to my eyes, the woods looked like a colorless moon. I commented as much. The video maker said the CRI looks a lot better in real life. I have a hard time believing that a warm white light in a V5 or V6 bin can generate over 600 lumens out the front AND have high CRI.

I have a Prime A2, likely using the same warm white emitter as the Partner. While I like the warm tint, it’s certainly not high CRI. Better than a cool white, but that’s not saying much. Overall, I don’t really like it outdoors, as it does make things look flatter than other lights I have.

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I like my new Manker T02, but it would not be a good choice for a bug out bag. It has no physical lock out so always draws some current from the cells, and the tailcap is a bugger to install without cross threading it.
But it looks good Big Smile
Sunwayman D20A has same issues, but it does have the cool red LED and zombies can’t see red light, so it has that going for it
My AA bug out light would be my single cell Lumintop EDC05. Bright, simple UI, magnetic tail, very well made.

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I really like the Jaxman M2. It is reliable and has a wonderfully simple UI. The high is very bright and reaches out nicely for a 2xAA flashlight. The “low” is still fairly bright and lasts a good while. Some people might miss a lower low but this really works well for what it is. I prefer the 4300K version, which they strangely call “warm yellow” on the Ali Express page:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32794173177.html

They work well with Eneloop and Eneloop Pro.

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Something interesting I noticed about the Jaxman M2, is that if you run it on two lithium primary AAs the two modes are almost identical. With alkalines or nimh the low and high are noticeably different as expected, even though it’s more like medium and high. The driver is very sensitive to the higher voltage I guess.

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Yeah I dont like that strobe in main sequence either on the Zanflare, I just leave it in my car with some Lithium primaries, really liking the output on Tool 2.0 with just 1 AA, so not sure if it fits your request, the Sofirn 2AA is pretty good and cheap, Fenix LD or E AA lights are also pretty good but pricier.

Cosmodragoon
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jasontheguitarist wrote:
Something interesting I noticed about the Jaxman M2, is that if you run it on two lithium primary AAs the two modes are almost identical. With alkalines or nimh the low and high are noticeably different as expected, even though it’s more like medium and high. The driver is very sensitive to the higher voltage I guess.

Forgive my utter lack of electrical knowledge here but I remember reading something about the high mode being realized through a boost driver. I’m guessing whatever controls are involved keep the high regulated so you only see a boost from the voltage in low. Either way, I’m not sure you’re supposed to use lithium batteries. The information I’ve seen specifies alkaline and NiMH for the M2.

In another thread, people joked that this is the best flashlight for people who don’t know how to care for lithium batteries. Things might have changed in the last year or two but is this the most powerful 2xAA thrower for non-lithium users?

jasontheguitarist
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Cosmodragoon wrote:
jasontheguitarist wrote:
Something interesting I noticed about the Jaxman M2, is that if you run it on two lithium primary AAs the two modes are almost identical. With alkalines or nimh the low and high are noticeably different as expected, even though it’s more like medium and high. The driver is very sensitive to the higher voltage I guess.

Forgive my utter lack of electrical knowledge here but I remember reading something about the high mode being realized through a boost driver. I’m guessing whatever controls are involved keep the high regulated so you only see a boost from the voltage in low. Either way, I’m not sure you’re supposed to use lithium batteries. The information I’ve seen specifies alkaline and NiMH for the M2.

In another thread, people joked that this is the best flashlight for people who don’t know how to care for lithium batteries. Things might have changed in the last year or two but is this the most powerful 2xAA thrower for non-lithium users?

I’m talking about 1.8v Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries, which folks around here call lithium primaries, not the much higher voltage lithium ion batteries that most lights use these days. Lithium primary AAs are usually interchangeable with alkalines in most devices.

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My Tool 25 XP-L HI arrived recently and I am very pleased. Creamy white tint with an excellent beam profile. Easy tail switch UI with 4 output settings and last mode memory.

Very nice little 2 X AA light.

... Happy Landings ...

buck91
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weklund wrote:
My Tool 25 XP-L HI arrived recently and I am very pleased. Creamy white tint with an excellent beam profile. Easy tail switch UI with 4 output settings and last mode memory.

Very nice little 2 X AA light.

!https://i.postimg.cc/d3K97cwn/LUMINTOPTOOL254.jpg!

I would be all over this if it didn’t have mode memory! Love the M-L-H mode order. Wouldn’t happen to know if an easy mod to disable the memory?

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IMO flashlights are for minor annoyances, headlamps are for when it really shtf. It MUST be a headlamp. No way you want to be walking without both hands free in the dark. As noted above, imagine changing a tire, getting a water filter out and filtering water, or any routine task trying to hold a flashlight while doing anything…changing a baby’s diaper, etc etc. There are lots of good AA headlamps (Princeton Tec, Petzl, Black Diamond all have solid 3 AA versions) , however, getting one that charges with a USB would be nice so that in the event of electrical systemwide failure, you could charge it off a solar panel, your car or a power bank. The issue with all AA is that you need to use eneloops or lithiums as regular AA alkalines will destroy your stuff. Might as well get a solid 18650 battery then. Unscrew the cap so you don’t have parasitic drain, toss it in your bob and forget it. In fact, suggest wrapping it in foil so that a CMP or EMP won’t toast it.

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