You may be noticing the Purkinje effect, combined with the relatively low output of red from the 80CRI emitter.
I haven’t done any rigorous testing, but I tend to assume high CRI should be particularly helpful for maintaining color discrimination in the red range as intensity is decreased, although even that would not completely counter the Purkinje effect.
Do you have other 3000K lights you’re comparing it to?
And is this when it’s fully dark? I’ve got a 3000K XM-L2 light that seems comparatively very orange if I’m using it around what is often called the “blue hour,” which occurs after sunset but before it is fully dark.
I don’t like such warm color temperatures for that kind of situation. On the other hand, indoors, where my last light exposure was likely a 2700-3000K bulb, or around a campfire after it’s totally dark, 3000K is great.
My SST-20 4000K came today. The emitters are great but the new switch is terrible compared to the first run one. Metal-on-metal squeaky and not nearly as solid feeling
Mine does not squeak at all. Solid click sound. The only way I can get a metal on metal sound is by spinning the switch, which you would expect that sound at that point.
Really happy with mine except I wish it didn’t activate so easily on the edge. I am currently doing the switch lockout with the head. It’s really not bad doing it that way since the threads are so smooth it turns like butter with one hand. Plus it keeps your memory since you keep power to the driver. I am considering changing the internal switch like some have, I just don’t know what they used. I am considering trying some foam too since some have said that worked well.
Same, I picked the 7A 3300k because 5000k seemed way too cool. 7A is OK (too warm but tolerable) – I really want LH351D 4k 90CRI emitters though. MTN is currently out of stock of the bare emitters so I’ll keep an eye out.
The SST-20 temp is good at 4k, and has high CRI but they give off a lot of heat and are quite a bit lower brightness on turbo, approx 1700 lumens vs 3000 lumens for the XP-L 3A per a user earlier the thread, data here. I’m not sure how the LH351D compares.
I got my SST-20 from Neal: FW3A
Make sure to use the 20% off code at the top of the page. Also I would recommend paying the little extra for the better shipping unless you don’t mind waiting possibly weeks. I got a green glow gasket too which Neal put on for me, it’s a great addition.
I have 3 FW3As and 1 FW3C. None of them have squeaky buttons. However, the switches don’t all feel the same:
FW3A #1: Requires firmer button press than any of the other lights and does not have a loud click. (click is still noticeable, just not loud).
FW3A #2: Loud clicking sound when button is pressed. Feels good to press, but is not quiet.
FW3A #3: First run SST-20 version. Too much material on bottom of tailcap above the switch. Result is switch button isn’t able to fully extend. Soft click with minimal pressure needed to depress the button. I found this unacceptable as risk of accidental activation was too great so ended up modding the switch.
FW3C: Feels like #2, but not quite as loud.
I found all of the switches to be quite acceptable as-is, except for #3.
I opened it up, removed a stray piece of plastic from the tail threads(!), recentered the rubber part under the metal switch, and tightened it back up very tight. Seems a bit better now, not as good as first run, but acceptable. I was also able to get the first run switch to metal squeak by pressing on the edge of it.
