Got one of my dark blue 0.3mA aux boards installed today. Compiled a hex file with aux support and the latest Anduril features like manual memory, two level lockout brightness, soft reset, etc. The version with MCU support isn’t the most simple option but I did want the ability to turn it off.
Not terribly difficult once you have the software installed and the hardware to do a flash. I hear most people have more trouble getting the Windows drivers sorted for the USBasp. I use Linux, and it is a breeze.
What kind of computer do you have available?
The more difficult part here is modifying the Anduril code before flashing it. I haven’t tried that yet, but I have 2 Lexel boards coming. I will see if I can write up a guide or something once I do one successfully.
It is working on Win 10 without any problems after you got the Powershell.exe and arvdude.exe in the same location as the HEX files
I use this command for my Bistro drivers
./avrdude.exe -c usbasp -p t25 -u -Uflash:w:bistro-TAv1-OTSM-HD-attiny25.hex -U lfuse:w:0xd2:m -U hfuse:w:0xde:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m
It was no big deal to get it also running as External Tool in Atmel Studio 7
Just an avarage Windows 10 setup. Should do the job. I still need to buy all the pins and connectors to do the flashing. And I want to buy a third FW3A to use as Gunea pig for this project. What hardware do I need for this particular project? Preferably something I can buy off AliExpress.
How “bright” would .3mA with green LEDs be considered? I’m looking for bright enough to not be overpowering if I am using moonlight, but bright enough it can be enjoyed still in normal indoor lighting. If that is even possible that is.
Edit: Actually if anyone has a turboglow green gasket. I’m looking for a similar brightness to that at full brightness. It looks vibrant even under indoor lighting, but isn’t overpowering in the dark.