FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

[Firelight2]

@Nev

@Firelight2

@Nev

I had XPLHI , after a short time it did develop a blue tinge to it, but that was after one led went bad & started to smoke , but before that it was ok for a warmish or neutral or whatever just under 5000k is ,with no green more of a yellowy white.
Another new colour I’ve invented

Never heard of that happening before. XPL-HI is normally extremely tolerant of hi current.

It wasn’t the led that was smoking (it was just discoloured) the smoking was from the negative black wire which got hot enough to melt the solder & disconected itself , the smoke was coming from the plastic insulation on that wire.

That shouldn’t have happened either. I wonder if maybe the star needs new thermal compound underneath.

[Nev]

@Kona G

Probably could take q-tip wipe off residue?
Still… bet when u saw smoke made ya pucker a little lol

I was taking a video to show neal the smoking & as luck would have it that’s when it melted the solder & disconnected itself ,I could smell it was hot just like a D4 or any other high power light gets , but this was a burning smell & that’s what made me take the bezel off to see where it was coming from.

[Nev]

@Firelight2

@Nev

@Firelight2

@Nev

I had XPLHI , after a short time it did develop a blue tinge to it, but that was after one led went bad & started to smoke , but before that it was ok for a warmish or neutral or whatever just under 5000k is ,with no green more of a yellowy white.
Another new colour I’ve invented

Never heard of that happening before. XPL-HI is normally extremely tolerant of hi current.

It wasn’t the led that was smoking (it was just discoloured) the smoking was from the negative black wire which got hot enough to melt the solder & disconected itself , the smoke was coming from the plastic insulation on that wire.

That shouldn’t have happened either. I wonder if maybe the star needs new thermal compound underneath.

It had some on but only a very thin layer. I’m not a modder so I can’t say if it was enough.

[JasonWW]

@Firelight2

@Nev

@Firelight2

@Nev

I had XPLHI , after a short time it did develop a blue tinge to it, but that was after one led went bad & started to smoke , but before that it was ok for a warmish or neutral or whatever just under 5000k is ,with no green more of a yellowy white.
Another new colour I’ve invented

Never heard of that happening before. XPL-HI is normally extremely tolerant of hi current.

It wasn’t the led that was smoking (it was just discoloured) the smoking was from the negative black wire which got hot enough to melt the solder & disconected itself , the smoke was coming from the plastic insulation on that wire.

That shouldn’t have happened either. I wonder if maybe the star needs new thermal compound underneath.

He took the bezel off so the star was not actually pressed into the head. The star got way too hot with no way to transfer the heat.

[JasonWW]

@Joshk

Maybe the design requires higher precision that is possible at this price point? I don’t know, just wondering. On a related note, who creates the blueprint files for projects like this?

Lumintop does all the blueprints.

[Firelight2]

@JasonWW

@Firelight2

@Nev

@Firelight2

@Nev

I had XPLHI , after a short time it did develop a blue tinge to it, but that was after one led went bad & started to smoke , but before that it was ok for a warmish or neutral or whatever just under 5000k is ,with no green more of a yellowy white.
Another new colour I’ve invented

Never heard of that happening before. XPL-HI is normally extremely tolerant of hi current.

It wasn’t the led that was smoking (it was just discoloured) the smoking was from the negative black wire which got hot enough to melt the solder & disconected itself , the smoke was coming from the plastic insulation on that wire.

That shouldn’t have happened either. I wonder if maybe the star needs new thermal compound underneath.

He took the bezel off so the star was not actually pressed into the head. The star got way too hot with no way to transfer the heat.

That would do it. The star on the FW3A isn’t screwed down. If you ran it for more than a few seconds on turbo without the bezel on, the star could very easily overheat.

[Nev]

@JasonWW

@Firelight2

@Nev

@Firelight2

@Nev

I had XPLHI , after a short time it did develop a blue tinge to it, but that was after one led went bad & started to smoke , but before that it was ok for a warmish or neutral or whatever just under 5000k is ,with no green more of a yellowy white.
Another new colour I’ve invented

Never heard of that happening before. XPL-HI is normally extremely tolerant of hi current.

It wasn’t the led that was smoking (it was just discoloured) the smoking was from the negative black wire which got hot enough to melt the solder & disconected itself , the smoke was coming from the plastic insulation on that wire.

That shouldn’t have happened either. I wonder if maybe the star needs new thermal compound underneath.

He took the bezel off so the star was not actually pressed into the head. The star got way too hot with no way to transfer the heat.

Yes he did but it was burning & or smoking before the bezel was taken off , I could smell burning so I took the bezel ,optic ,lens off to see where it was coming from.

[teacher]

@Nev

more of a yellowy white.
Another new colour I’ve invented

Your on a roll mate…. keep it up!!

[JasonWW]

@Nev

@JasonWW

@Firelight2

@Nev

@Firelight2

@Nev

I had XPLHI , after a short time it did develop a blue tinge to it, but that was after one led went bad & started to smoke , but before that it was ok for a warmish or neutral or whatever just under 5000k is ,with no green more of a yellowy white.
Another new colour I’ve invented

Never heard of that happening before. XPL-HI is normally extremely tolerant of hi current.

It wasn’t the led that was smoking (it was just discoloured) the smoking was from the negative black wire which got hot enough to melt the solder & disconected itself , the smoke was coming from the plastic insulation on that wire.

That shouldn’t have happened either. I wonder if maybe the star needs new thermal compound underneath.

He took the bezel off so the star was not actually pressed into the head. The star got way too hot with no way to transfer the heat.

Yes he did but it was burning & or smoking before the bezel was taken off , I could smell burning so I took the bezel ,optic ,lens off to see where it was coming from.

I’m guessing one of the Leds was not flowed on well and it wasn’t transferring the heat like it should. It’s important that the center pad under the led, the thermal pad, is soldered properly. This made the one led turn blue and start burning/smelling. Then removing the bezel and going Turbo really fried things. So a pretty rare chain of events and not something that happens often. Normally the XPL are tough and can handle more current than the FW3A can produce.

[JasonWW]

@patmurris

@Klayking

Those glow gaskets are pretty great.

I saw those on Neal’s site but i’m unsure how they fit…
Do you need to file the optic of something? Is it just a drop-in?

For those interested, Mad Max just did a video where he installs the glow gasket as well as the new glow switch.

FW3C unboxing PLUS modding TURBOLGLOW Gasket and Button

FW3C unboxing PLUS modding TURBOLGLOW Gasket and Button

[Helios_azimuth]

Good video. How long do the gasket and button glow after the light is shut off?

[1stein]

Guys, is there any optics replacement for FW3A available? I need striped lens that make the beam oval (for cycling purposes).

[cabfrank]

Carlco 10510 elliptical should be perfect for you.

[1stein]

@cabfrank

Carlco 10510 elliptical should be perfect for you.

:person_facepalming: of course, it’s standard 20mm optics

cabfrank - many thanks

[mortuus]

whats the lumen output max on the sst20 version ? it doesnt say on neals page.

[Firelight2]

@mortuus

whats the lumen output max on the sst20 version ? it doesnt say on neals page.

someone earlier in this thread tested the 4000K high-CRI SST-20 version at 1800 lumens max.

[cabfrank]

1stein. I have one too for my bike, but haven’t tried it yet. I think it will work well.

[nobody]

@Helios azimuth

Good video. How long do the gasket and button glow after the light is shut off?

After 6 to 7 hours, my "aqua blue" gasket still has a faint glow. Enough to see (and locate the light on the nightstand) in a dark room.

[mortuus]

@nobody

@Helios azimuth

Good video. How long do the gasket and button glow after the light is shut off?

After 6 to 7 hours, my “aqua blue” gasket still has a faint glow. Enough to see (and locate the light on the nightstand) in a dark room.

how is this possible? my green fades away after just a few min, hours? thats not possible… im kinda dissapointed in glow gaskets compared to aux leds they only shine for so short time so i dont see how it can shine four hours…

[thisnameisvalid]

@mortuus

@nobody

@Helios azimuth

Good video. How long do the gasket and button glow after the light is shut off?

After 6 to 7 hours, my “aqua blue” gasket still has a faint glow. Enough to see (and locate the light on the nightstand) in a dark room.

how is this possible? my green fades away after just a few min, hours? thats not possible… im kinda dissapointed in glow gaskets compared to aux leds they only shine for so short time so i dont see how it can shine four hours…

My CRX aqua gasket glows for hours and hours; I can still see it in the dark about 6-7 hours after too. It is a lot dimmer, but it’s still visible with fully night adjusted eyes.