So long as we are making demands upon our volunteer firmware developer(s), some means of using a config file would be fantastic. If only there were a decent way to get it into the device.
In reality, I’m well aware of the difficulties with such an unreasonable request, and as a volunteer at a large volunteer-run makerspace can appreciate the problems associated with voluntelling.
Before I go wiring everything up (I have all the hardware now), I want to confirm the silk-screen labeling on the driver board. "MI" would be third pad from the left and "MO" would be the far right pad ? ? Or the other way around? I don't want to assume . . .
That is the assumption I would make. Seems to follow the labeling.
From what I also understand, as long as you are not flashing the fuses, you can repeat if it’s not wired/via’d correctly without harm.
ToyKeeper has said something similar:
The command does not have any fuse values in it because of two reasons:
The fuse values should not need to be changed.
Attempting to flash new fuse values is risky because it can make the MCU unflashable.
So that part is left out on purpose. As long as the user does not try to change the fuse values, it should be safe to reflash as many times as necessary.
Here’s the layout:
|
RESET |
GND |
||
|
VCC |
SCK |
MISO |
MOSI |
Thanks, assumption correct.
Yeah, I hear you, WalkIntoTheLight. I’m torn, too, between the poles of robustness on the one hand and innovation on the other. I suppose I want Anduril to “lean” toward innovation, in part because there are emergent features (e.g., adjustable color temperature) that I want. And in part because there are already so many options on the robust tool end of the scale. There are Malkoff or Elzetta (with potted electronics, mechanical switches, etc.). And, if those are out of reach, there are Zebralight or Olight or Acebeam. I do think of my Emisar lights as tools, but as exotic ones. In 2005, my first LiIon powered light, the CPF Peak Rainier, was universally regarded as a toy (and a dangerous toy, with no thermal or timed step down). Now-a-days, reliable LiIon powered lights are mainstream tools. My first programmable Ra was a far cry from a current HDS, let alone a D4V2. I just want to encourage innovation to continue, but I totally get the concern over side effects.
ToyKeeper,
I think I'm 95% there. After spending all afternoon building a fixture and installing software onto my Lenovo desktop, I'm finally able to "initialize" the D4V2 driver board - which I think means almost everything is working. The commands I'm using are underlined in blue, are they correct? It's my understanding we can ignore the sck error.
But, as you see, there's a signature error which keeps me from actually flashing.
It’s an ATTiny1634 chip, or t1634… not t13 or t85.
What DB Custom said. Replace t13 and t85 with t1634 on both commands and that error will go away.
Thanks, now I'm getting this
It looks like you may need a newer version of avrdude. The one you have appears to be from 2010, and attiny1634 was created in 2011.
I hope there will be a thread just for the instructions and help with flashing of the D4V2. There's no way I'll want to try and sift through this thread for examples and tips after I get my kit from Hank, especially having no clue ATM, on the flashing process.
If there is going to be a specific D4V2 flashing thread, please link to it from this thread. I'm going to need all the tips and detailed instructions I can get, all in one place.
I need a foolproof solution! 
Well this is where I'm stumped, I can't find a version that has t1634 support.
I'm was using version 6.3 from here (which says it's from 2016). Still same error message. Another site said the latest version was here, but that's the one from 2010.
ToyKeeper, do you (or anyone else) have a link to a version of avrdude that's guaranteed to have 1634 support?
Please try this one.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XEVlyF9X5atOdHOB9PVObWHJOJ6_dEaq/view?usp=drive_web
command: avrdude -c usbasp -p t1634 -u -Uflash:w:filename.hex
type in command. connect pins to driver pads then press enter to run flashing
connect
Thanks Hank, but . . .
"sorry, the file you have requested does not exist"
There will be definately a specifit D4V2 reflasing thread, including how to use the software and hardware, as soon as the software is installed into your PC, the reflasing process is simple, the whole reflasing process takes about 20 seconds. I hope there will be video to demostrate how to reflash the firmware as well.
As for the price of the reflashing kits, it’s $8.5 including registered shipping for D4V2 owners, while the regular price is $18.5.
Excellent news and thanks for the reply, Hank!
If I remember correctly you said that the kits will be at cost for the first batch of D4V2? Will you have a way to see who ordered from the first batch and sell them at cost or will there be another way? Regardless Im very excited to buy a kit and learn a new skill in the process.
Edit: I have little to no experience with flashing. The only mod I have ever done was removing the orginal bezel of the D4v2 and and adding the stainless steel one. So I guess Im in the same boat as others.
Just sent the file via email