Got one of my dark blue 0.3mA aux boards installed today. Compiled a hex file with aux support and the latest Anduril features like manual memory, two level lockout brightness, soft reset, etc. The version with MCU support isn’t the most simple option but I did want the ability to turn it off.
SST-20 4000k FD2, Noctigon triple board, 10507 optic, CRX Aqua glow gasket and emisar spring in the tail
Out of interest I took some measurements (these are with a phone so they won’t be perfect)
SST-20 Lumens:
1*7135
112lm
8*7135
754lm
Turbo (30Q, 4.19v)
1933lm
Turbo (30Q, 3.75v)
1490lm
SST-20 intensity @ 1m:
1*7135
1099cd
Turbo (30Q, 4.19v)
17160cd
~9.3cd/lm
For comparison here is what I got for the XP-L Hi 5D
XPL Lumens:
1*7135
130lm
Turbo (30Q, 4.19v)
2901lm
XPL Intensity @ 1m:
1*7135
1101cd
Turbo (30Q,, 4.19v)
24320cd
~8.5cd/lm
So the SST-20 is slightly throwier, but the output of the XP-L Hi makes up for it. The throw of both at the 1*7135 is basically identical. The beam of the SST-20 is very focused; close to a wall you can see its pretty much made up of 3 squares. Its slightly green on low levels, but perfectly acceptable. It looks more neutral than afternoon sunlight for example (I heard sunlight has slightly positive duv?)
SST-20 4000k FD2, Noctigon triple board, 10507 optic, CRX Aqua glow gasket and emisar spring in the tail
Out of interest I took some measurements (these are with a phone so they won’t be perfect)
SST-20 Lumens:
1*7135
112lm
8*7135
754lm
Turbo (30Q, 4.19v)
1933lm
Turbo (30Q, 3.75v)
1490lm
SST-20 intensity @ 1m:
1*7135
1099cd
Turbo (30Q, 4.19v)
17160cd
~9.3cd/lm
For comparison here is what I got for the XP-L Hi 5D
XPL Lumens:
1*7135
130lm
Turbo (30Q, 4.19v)
2901lm
XPL Intensity @ 1m:
1*7135
1101cd
Turbo (30Q,, 4.19v)
24320cd
~8.5cd/lm
So the SST-20 is slightly throwier, but the output of the XP-L Hi makes up for it. The throw of both at the 1*7135 is basically identical. The beam of the SST-20 is very focused; close to a wall you can see its pretty much made up of 3 squares. Its slightly green on low levels, but perfectly acceptable. It looks more neutral than afternoon sunlight for example (I heard sunlight has slightly positive duv?)
Thanks for the numbers and comparison. I don’t really see much if any green in mine at any level. I do love how neutral it is though. I am using the 10507 optic with my SST-20 and I think the hotspot is quite big still, so the throw from the optic and the SST-20 really make it a great EDC because it can do it all quite well. That’s the case especially for my work. I am a sysadmin and could be close up behind a rack needing the high CRI for cabling or up in a ceiling needing the throw. It really is awesome.
I think I am going to go the washer route too. I am going to add my magnet on the clip. I had a magnet, but I accidentally mostly demagnetized it adding the heat shrink. I rushed it and got it too hot.
Got one of my dark blue 0.3mA aux boards installed today. Compiled a hex file with aux support and the latest Anduril features like manual memory, two level lockout brightness, soft reset, etc. The version with MCU support isn’t the most simple option but I did want the ability to turn it off.
Here are the changes I made if you are familiar with editing and compiling the firmware. If not Lexel posted some .hex files with similar changes already made in his thread.
Got one of my dark blue 0.3mA aux boards installed today. Compiled a hex file with aux support and the latest Anduril features like manual memory, two level lockout brightness, soft reset, etc. The version with MCU support isn’t the most simple option but I did want the ability to turn it off.
Seriously impressive! Man, sure hope the FW3A evolves into a later version providing aux LED’s like this. I just don’t have the technical know-how to do it myself.
Nice, what did you use for your aux LEDs? Lexel’s board or a PCB with secondaries?
I did not use any additional board. I placed the additional diode centrally on the existing board and connected it to the driver.
I compiled the latest version (FW3A) of adruil with aux led support. Everything works very well :
Looks great, Lexel! I assume the aux LEDs would always be on?
if you flash driver and remove the optical nerve resistor you can solder there the Aux supply
then flash a firmware variant that supports the Aux LED option
Sorry if this has already been asked, but is there a guide with pics of the mod required and also a guide and firmware for flashing, hopefully including a good cable for the flashing?
Looks great, Lexel! I assume the aux LEDs would always be on?
if you flash driver and remove the optical nerve resistor you can solder there the Aux supply
then flash a firmware variant that supports the Aux LED option
Sorry if this has already been asked, but is there a guide with pics of the mod required and also a guide and firmware for flashing, hopefully including a good cable for the flashing?
The flashing process is pretty much the same as any other attiny85 based driver. Lexel has a bit of info and a precompiled .hex file in his thread where he is selling these boards.
You’ll need a USBasp, an SOIC8 clip and something to connect them (dupont wires are the usual recommendation). For instructions, there is a thread going up for the D4V2 and the instructions will be adaptable to the FW3A. The main differences between the lights are the method of connection (FW3A uses a generic clip and the D4V2 uses a special programming key), the chip being flashed (attiny85 instead of attiny1634), and the file to be flashed.
I think there is an old thread/post by Hoop on how to flash attiny based drivers as well. (they are all very similar)
You only need to flash if you want high/low/off. Lexel has a board with LVP built in you can wire up with no changes but you get 1 brightness level and always on.
You only need to flash if you want high/low/off. Lexel has a board with LVP built in you can wire up with no changes but you get 1 brightness level and always on.
Approximately how long before one of those boards drained a battery?
Is this correct…
A 0.3 mA board would drain a 3000mAh battery in approximately 10,000 hours?? (If there was no LVP)
A 0.5 mA board would last about 6,000 hours with the same battery & no LVP.
Have I figured that correctly??
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
I already have a board with secondaries, the one commonly used with Dragon drivers. That board uses a common + for the primary and secondary LEDs and separate ground cables.
Is there a driver mod and firmware for the FW3A to work with this board? I prefer to use it as I already have it and I also want to use a turboglow gasket between it and the optic, something obviously impossible if there is a second board in there.
Got one of my dark blue 0.3mA aux boards installed today. Compiled a hex file with aux support and the latest Anduril features like manual memory, two level lockout brightness, soft reset, etc. The version with MCU support isn’t the most simple option but I did want the ability to turn it off.
SO cool!
/\ . That looks great!!!
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
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an FW3A with aux LEDs?
I got mine too. Though I need to get the gear and learn how to reflash the driver. Currently just connected to battery so permanently on.
SST-20 4000k FD2, Noctigon triple board, 10507 optic, CRX Aqua glow gasket and emisar spring in the tail
Out of interest I took some measurements (these are with a phone so they won’t be perfect)
SST-20 Lumens:
SST-20 intensity @ 1m:
~9.3cd/lm
For comparison here is what I got for the XP-L Hi 5D
XPL Lumens:
XPL Intensity @ 1m:
~8.5cd/lm
So the SST-20 is slightly throwier, but the output of the XP-L Hi makes up for it. The throw of both at the 1*7135 is basically identical. The beam of the SST-20 is very focused; close to a wall you can see its pretty much made up of 3 squares. Its slightly green on low levels, but perfectly acceptable. It looks more neutral than afternoon sunlight for example (I heard sunlight has slightly positive duv?)
Thanks for the numbers and comparison. I don’t really see much if any green in mine at any level. I do love how neutral it is though. I am using the 10507 optic with my SST-20 and I think the hotspot is quite big still, so the throw from the optic and the SST-20 really make it a great EDC because it can do it all quite well. That’s the case especially for my work. I am a sysadmin and could be close up behind a rack needing the high CRI for cabling or up in a ceiling needing the throw. It really is awesome.
I have some of those washers coming. I’m assuming gorilla glue will work? Acetone can remove it but that’s probably really bad for a rubber boot.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
I think I am going to go the washer route too. I am going to add my magnet on the clip. I had a magnet, but I accidentally mostly demagnetized it adding the heat shrink. I rushed it and got it too hot.
Can you tell me what changes you made to the source code to run an external diode? Which pin in MCU did you use for aux led?
BTW Great job!!
I’ll post the firmware changes but click on the aux boards link in the post for more info. There’s a few ways to do it
Ok, thank You
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1533455#comment-1533455
Here are the changes I made if you are familiar with editing and compiling the firmware. If not Lexel posted some .hex files with similar changes already made in his thread.
Thank you again for your help. Above the final effect
Nice, what did you use for your aux LEDs? Lexel’s board or a PCB with secondaries?
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
@ KB…
You owe me a keyboard. You did not post a ‘DROOL WARNING’ wth your photos & I shorted my keyboard out. It was bad…. magic smoke & flames. .
. 
Seriously… those look amazing!! .
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
/\ +1
Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience
A little John Prine
Seriously impressive! Man, sure hope the FW3A evolves into a later version providing aux LED’s like this. I just don’t have the technical know-how to do it myself.
@ KawiBoy, you’re giving my eyes diabetes.
I did not use any additional board. I placed the additional diode centrally on the existing board and connected it to the driver.
I compiled the latest version (FW3A) of adruil with aux led support. Everything works very well :
Sorry if this has already been asked, but is there a guide with pics of the mod required and also a guide and firmware for flashing, hopefully including a good cable for the flashing?
Start here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67874
The flashing process is pretty much the same as any other attiny85 based driver. Lexel has a bit of info and a precompiled .hex file in his thread where he is selling these boards.
You’ll need a USBasp, an SOIC8 clip and something to connect them (dupont wires are the usual recommendation). For instructions, there is a thread going up for the D4V2 and the instructions will be adaptable to the FW3A. The main differences between the lights are the method of connection (FW3A uses a generic clip and the D4V2 uses a special programming key), the chip being flashed (attiny85 instead of attiny1634), and the file to be flashed.
I think there is an old thread/post by Hoop on how to flash attiny based drivers as well. (they are all very similar)
You only need to flash if you want high/low/off. Lexel has a board with LVP built in you can wire up with no changes but you get 1 brightness level and always on.
Is this correct…
A 0.3 mA board would drain a 3000mAh battery in approximately 10,000 hours?? (If there was no LVP)
A 0.5 mA board would last about 6,000 hours with the same battery & no LVP.
Have I figured that correctly??
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Yes I believe so.
Just as a reference the D4v2 on high draws 3mA according to TK so 10x higher than some configs here. Them fancy bright RBG LEDs you pay a price for!
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
So, deep carry pocket clips. Anyone make them?
"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams
Or cool button options?
I already have a board with secondaries, the one commonly used with Dragon drivers. That board uses a common + for the primary and secondary LEDs and separate ground cables.
Is there a driver mod and firmware for the FW3A to work with this board? I prefer to use it as I already have it and I also want to use a turboglow gasket between it and the optic, something obviously impossible if there is a second board in there.
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