FW3A SST20 2700k with the black paint on the clip sanded off (220 - 1000 grit)
Convoy S2+ Triple BLF A6 Driver/LH351D 4000K with hand sanded J-Dub74 clip sent through a ārock tumblerā (Gatorade bottle + water + broken mug + variable speed hand drill contraception)
Empty Ultrafire A100 clone. First attempt at sanding/polishing on something cheap. Currently awaiting polishing materials. I guess āpolishing a turdā is applicable here.
Tomorrow starts camping with the family so I hacked a lantern mod from a Supfire A6, an optic from a Philips household bulb, a perspex washer made to size, a Virens two-pad board, a 1800K 90 CRI Luminus Cube led and a 2x7135 biscotti driver.
I did not manage to finish it with a nice roof and hanging hook, that will have to wait till after the trip. It will do a good job already as it is.
Candle mode would be appropriate but also a bit kitch, may as well bring a couple of those flickering coin cell led-tealights on vacation. (not the worst idea probably, the family would love that )
Did the āSkilhunt H03 modā. New Lexel driver that runs Anduril. yay
While in the zone, I decided that the red indicator led in the button had to be changed (red = dead). went with a orange.
This had a rather hilarious outcome.
On the low setting the light draws 0,095mA
On the high setting the light draws 37,2mA
And on ramping flor the 219C 4000K draws 1,74mA.
So yea, that orange 0603 led is hella bright, and hella inefficient at high.
I have used one orange switch LED in a S2+ and experienced the same, it drained a full charged cell (only slightly used a couple of times) in 4,5 months
vwpieces was a bit faster
Today My post delivery guy brought be a glowing package. Inside was a cardbordbox with this cheap hedlamp. It was dam hot but not damaged.
I bought it to upgrade the light on my magnifying glasses. I build something jears ago out of a chap boost driver with a XPG and a tir. But the 2 AA batterys are empty fast. So i was searching for a new option. And this cheap one with internal battery is my victim. But because the led is something terribly white i cut a 20mm XP board to size and put my last 5000K LH351D on it.
Small notice for all that want to do this. On my light + and - are switched. Usually i measure it before soldering anything but this time not. So i had to desolder the board and reflow the led.
Not a huge amount of work but i could have prevented it. I will also add a diffusion film on the glass because i will use the light on very short distances.
First pic is the magnifying glasses i bought the light for. I also added a real leather cover on the headband a year ago.
I forgot to take a pic bevore i dissasembled the light
Not often do i get glowing packages delivered
I did not expect to find a 1200mA battery. For about 5ā¬ i expected something with 500 or 750mA.
Original the led is soldet to a aluminium MCPCB I have seen worse
And the front side
Now with a 90CRI LH351D on a Noctigon 20mm XP board thas was cut to size
And the front
Tomorrow i will have to grind a bit on the plastic holder to make it fit to my magnifying hadband
But the color is much better and because the die is bigger i now have a softer hotspot.
3631K - 3882K Duv right around 0.0 w/ AR lens. In another post I measured the stock D4v2 lens vs a plain lens to increase the Duv by approx .001 (not bad compared to FW3A lens)
3,876lm at 0s (18.xx amps w/ VTC5D)
As expected fitting the wires back through the holes is tricky as well as neatly re-soldering the leads back on. Some of the insulation made a sacrifice on the positive wire. A plus is that most of the wires seemed like they had a bit of slack stuffed in the driver cavity.
Especially during that minute or so of testing where you have it set up as a mule.
I was a little surprised though cause it seems less floody than my E2L triple 10507. That one has such a round defined hotspot you would think it was an aspheric lens but the quad doesnāt have that effect.