WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

[malkoff_junkie]

isn’t clemence at Virence making these ?.
wouldn’t mind a custom built one HCRI Optisolis

[id30209]

@optosolis

isn’t clemence at Virence making these ?.
wouldn’t mind a custom built one HCRI Optisolis

Spoke to clemence and shared some thoughts about it. He is trying to finish some protos of his MCPCB for RRT. But he’s busy as hell so it will take some time plus suplier messed up delivery of some boards if i understood him correctly…
But lack of time is the main reason

[xevious (Gary)]

@jon_slider

both KD reflectors produce better beams than the setup w the stock reflector
but the KD reflectors dont let the bezel close down as far, the O ring is exposed, without using any centering ring:

if I add a thin round centering ring then the gap at the O ring gets bigger
when my RRT-01 was modded to sw45, I dont know what mcpcb thickness was used
The beam has at least 3 obvious rings in the spill. Maybe because the LED sits lower than stock.
I much prefer the beam from the KD reflectors, thanks for doing all the legwork to find them, and then sharing the info…

Is there any feasible way to trim down the Kai Domain reflector just enough so that it fits properly in an original RRT-01?

[id30209]

I think grinding/sanding the trim on top of the reflector could allow reflector to drop a bit onto the MCPCB

[jon_slider]

@xevious

Is there any feasible way to trim down the Kai Domain reflector just enough so that it fits properly in an original RRT-01?

fwiw, my single sw45 Original RRT-01 is using a NOTstock board plus liquid tape.

I actually have not tried the KD reflectors in an UNmodified stock RRT-01.

It is also possible that the exposed Oring in my modded RRT-01 is caused by the height of the mcpcb, instead of being caused, as I suggested, by the lip around the KD reflector.

someone else needs to provide a photo of their reflector mod, and whether their O ring is exposed.

.

.

meanwhile, here is a red GID mod to a triple sw35 modded Jetbeam Eye10 from pinkpanda:

GID inserts are available from CRX:

@CRX

imo the red is a waste of time, it is super dim, and only lasts a few seconds after being charged by light.

[jon_slider]

@moderator007

I’d thought about a adapter that would thread to the head and to the tube, like sunwayman did with the V11R and V10R.

does an AA adapter from sunwayman fit the Original RRT-01?

also just to consolidate
18650 tube options for the Original RRT-01:

WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

For anyone who wants to run an 18650 with your original RRT-01: a Crelant 7G3CS battery tube fits nicely onto the original RRT-01’s head. Gives the RRT-01 more runtime with a lockout clicky. Overall length is roughly 120mm, IIRC . Anodize color will be off, but I use my lights for more than photo-ops. Cheaper and much less time consuming than taking to the lathe and CNC. The light lends itself to much improvistion. The screw in lanyard makes adding machined or 3D printed attachments easy as we…

@Archibald Tuttle

For anyone who wants to run an 18650 with your original RRT-01: a Crelant 7G3CS battery tube fits nicely onto the original RRT-01’s head. Gives the RRT-01 more runtime with a lockout clicky.

WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

Incidentally, the threads in the old RRT-01 are compatible with the threads in the Manker E14 / Astrolux S41. This means you can take an 18650 tube from those lights and lego it onto your old version RRT-01 head to get instant 18650 support. There also tailcaps available for that thread pitch without without switches on them. So if you want a flat back with no switch it’s possible to do. I just tried it with parts on hand and it worked. While the threads on those lights are the same as the th…

@Firelight2

Incidentally, the threads in the old RRT-01 are compatible with the threads in the Manker E14 / Astrolux S41.
…If you want it to be watertight and cover the o-ring on the body tube you may need to shorten the threads slightly by sawing or filing off the top of the battery tube.

…

@ToyKeeper

The old RRT01 also legos with a Convoy S2 tube, IIRC. But it requires sanding down the tube threads to make it short enough for a good fit. Or dealing with exposed threads and no waterproofing.

[moderator007]

This pic just never seemed right to me some how.

.
So I looked at mine with the KD reflector and shaved LH351D installed.
.

.
Mine covers the o-ring completely and the space that’s left is visible and that’s were you have your o-ring installed.
.

This is with the bezel unscrewed to show where the o-ring goes.
I think you got your o-ring installed in the wrong place jon_slider. Might explain why your having problems with the KD reflector swap and exposed o-ring.

[moderator007]

.
Completely factory RRT-01 in the front, KD swap reflector in the back.

[jon_slider]

@moderator007

Mine covers the o-ring completely and the space that’s left is visible and that’s were you have your o-ring installed.

thank you Sir!
I agree, that is not where the O ring belongs

I need a tighter O ring, that is not being pushed by the bottom of the bezel
when that light gets back from passaround

on left is a stock Eye10 mcpcb and LED w a kaidomain reflector swap, on right I confirm an RRT-01 with Oring under the bezel

and the height difference of the kaidomain reflector

[moderator007]

That .5mm saved by the smaller 1.5mm thick copper mcpcb would come in very handy in helping with that difference.
I checked last night 5 different jetbeam original mcpcb’s, some copper, some aluminum. All of mine measured right at 2.04mm in thickness measured with accurate Mitutoyo calipers. The 12mm copper mcpcb’s I recommended measured 1.5mm in thickness.

[jon_slider]

thanks for the refence shot w stock thickness mcpcb

and that makes sense,
the thinner mcpcb will narrow the gap

[Coppet]

WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

Incidentally, the threads in the old RRT-01 are compatible with the threads in the Manker E14 / Astrolux S41. This means you can take an 18650 tube from those lights and lego it onto your old version RRT-01 head to get instant 18650 support. There also tailcaps available for that thread pitch without without switches on them. So if you want a flat back with no switch it’s possible to do. I just tried it with parts on hand and it worked. While the threads on those lights are the same as the th…

@Firelight2

Incidentally, the threads in the old RRT-01 are compatible with the threads in the Manker E14 / Astrolux S41.
…If you want it to be watertight and cover the o-ring on the body tube you may need to shorten the threads slightly by sawing or filing off the top of the battery tube.

Apparently there were some changes to the threads, I have an old RRT-01 and I have two Astrolux S41S and one S41 and none of the battery tubes fits the thread of the RRT-01, unfortunately

[moderator007]

@jon_slider

moderator007]

does an AA adapter from sunwayman fit the Original RRT-01?

I tried the V10R ti extender with no luck. I have the V11R aluminum extender but I just don’t know where it is at the moment. :person_facepalming:
I think both extenders have the same threads though.

[shirnask]

@moderator007

@jon_slider

moderator007]

does an AA adapter from sunwayman fit the Original RRT-01?

I tried the V10R ti extender with no luck. I have the V11R aluminum extender but I just don’t know where it is at the moment. :person_facepalming:
I think both extenders have the same threads though.

If your talking about the AP-05 AA extender, I have checked and it does not fit

[jon_slider]

@moderator007

[I tried the V10R ti extender with no luck.

@shirnask

I have checked and it does not fit

thank you both

[moderator007]

I disassembled my last factory older RRT-01 today. While I was there, I measured the bottom shelf where the mcpcb sits.
The shelf measured 15.10mm in diameter. A 16mm mcpcb can be used if filed down to 15mm. If doing the KD reflector swap a mcpcb of 1.5mm thickness would be better to allow the bezel to screw down to almost factory position. A 14mm mcpcb in 1.5mm thickness would work best if you can source one.
This info is for the older original RRT-01 not the new model.
.
You can find the 16mm x1.5mm mcpcb’s here.

[pol77]

I was not expecting the old RRT-01 to have a smaller shelf than the TC-R1, but there you have it… Thanks for the information moderator007.

After I get the supplies from KD to mod the TC-R1 to Nichia 219b, I am going to look for a 2016 RRT-01…

[Scallywag]

@moderator007

I disassembled my last factory older RRT-01 today. While I was there, I measured the bottom shelf where the mcpcb sits. The shelf measured 15.10mm in diameter. A 16mm mcpcb can be used if filed down to 15mm. If doing the KD reflector swap a mcpcb of 1.5mm thickness would be better to allow the bezel to screw down to almost factory position. A 14mm mcpcb in 1.5mm thickness would work best if you can source one. This info is for the older original RRT-01 not the new model. . You can find the 16mm x1.5mm mcpcb’s here.

I didn’t bother to measure mine when I modded it last weekend, but 15mm was my “rough guess” for MCPCB size after I filed (and filed and filed) down my 16mm MCPCB. Thanks for taking the time to actually measure, and provide a reference here for others.

I need to get around to ordering that new reflector, and I’ll probably also change the centering ring, but then I need to find a better way of making 4040 centering rings. The last one I reamed out from 3535 and my fingertips were upset with me for days!

[jon_slider]

@moderator007

This pic just never seemed right to me some how.

You were Right, again!

That was too easy, I just moved the O ring up to where it belongs, and Viola!

All is well, no more exposed O ring.
fwiw, that light has a kaidomain reflector and a non stock mcpcb installation. I dont know how thick, the mod done by a friend.

[jon_slider]

Installed, after sanding down, some glow gaskets from CRX

I hope night comes soon, so I can play in the dark