[Oshpark] HQ ProgKey - Universal Driver Programming Key

Sweet f0xx

Hi, I need a pogo adapter to flash d4v2’s. Who can I ask to place an order?

Hank from Emisar will sell them soon. These are just parts you have to assemble.

Ahh ok. So just defer to first page to find the source for all the parts?

That’s one option. If you order from Oshpark be sure to get the 2oz board. Pins can be found on Amazon too.

Awesome, thank you.

Hi. I ordered today from OSHPARK these HQ ProgKey but after I read last post I realized I made a mistake in the order. I ordered 1.6mm version. If any of you has assembled this board, can you tell me if this will be a problem if I can used with bent of pogo pins?

So I put it together and got it working. I nuked one with too much heat trying to re-flow on the stove (it might be salvageable but I doubt it).

What I ended up doing:

  • Tin each of the two parallel strips one at time with lead free solder. Basically hold your iron on the strip for a few seconds then put solder on the iron tip and drag it down to spread it
  • With all strips on one side tinned, grab a pin with tweezers and dip it into flux paste (the gooey kind) and line them up on the strip
  • I ended up putting this side on the stove and “re-flowing” it, adjusting the ends with tweezers as needed to stay aligned
  • Next, I kapton taped the pins and wrapped it around the wire holes on both sides leaving the second side pins clear
  • On the opposite side pins I tinned them with leaded solder (63/37) and did the same method with the flux paste
  • Instead of trying to re-flow again I ended up using a hot air gun on the lowest air setting and 410 degrees adjusting with tweezers as needed

edit:

Added a few pics of the pin soldering, i’m sure someone can come up with better ways but it’s what I did…

lead free reflow on stove, kapton taping those in place

lightly tin other side with leaded solder, flux paste on pins to hold them while doing hot air

Thanks contactcr!

This will prove helpful when I finally get my key pcbs. I just got some beautiful ones today in the wrong thickness (due to my thickness)… I think the correct ones have been sent to fab, so it will be soon.

Just got my Oshpark boards and soldered everything. Thank you contactcr. Your tips were invaluable.

I just solder paste and hot air both sides. My pins are longer so I use a second board to support them. A lot of my pins are slightly bent and need to be poked into alignment, the straight ones self align pretty good.

To do the second side I lay a spare pogo pin sideways under the board to keep it level.

I solder it on a piece of metal or on my heat sink. The bottom pins being in contact with metal suck the heat out of that side of the board faster than it can get through the fiberglass. It would be pretty hard to get the solder to melt on the bottom side, even if it did as long as the board is sitting level there is no reason for anything to move.

Just FYI Emisar is now selling their own kit already made and it’s up on their site

I could really use one of these breakout boards for pogos with 1.5mm spacing.

If you don’t want to wait… just DIY!

Definitely not as nice as the PCB version and it took me an hour to assemble it, but made it with parts I had at home and it works.

  • Print out template with correct pin spacing (see second post in this thread).
  • Glue print onto a piece of plastic.
  • Use a hot needle to make the holes. Make sure to use a needle with the same diameter as the pogo pins.
  • Cut out the plastic spacers.
  • Solder wires to the end of the pogo pins.
  • Insert pogo pins into the holes of the (two in my case) spacers.
  • Use hot glue and heat-shrink tubing to keep it all together. I started by applying hot glue to the solder connections, pogo pins and parts of the cable. When it’s cold put on the heat-shrink tubing and shrink/melt everything.
  • Same on the other side with a 3x2 pin header
1 Thank

I finally got around to building 1-2 up. Got two reflowed with the pins, one is fully assembled with a USBASP, looks very much like contactcr's above. I applied a good clear epoxy over the pins just to be sure. For me all I used was the hot air gun - did one side first, then the other, no kapton tape. Ended up replacing one pin though cause it was slightly bent to begin with and then after soldering, the pin would stick a little, then pop up -- it had to go. Again, used the hot air gun, added a little more solder paste, and it turned out well.

It worked first shot flashing Anduril2 on a FF E01. Tried the E07 but not working, then searched BLF and found AUX LED power must be removed () - not a good design...

Tried the PL47 but the with the rt. angle posts coming off the HQ key PCB, I can't get it all the way down to the driver ().

The checked my ROT66 - no flash pins o the driver ().

Ok, I gotta look for more lights I can flash with it. I already bought the pogo pin flash programmer from Hank for the Emisars and Noctigons.

BLF LT1 and lume1

. Just checked some Astrolux lights. Only ones with flash pads were 6 across: 5 then 1 pin gap then 1. Spacing matched though, but had no alignment holes.Think it was an FT03 mini.

Does this work for the LT1?

I cant promise anything 2 years later since things change so much. My original LT1 is two rows of 3 and 4 pins respectively so yes it would work assuming you have the pogo pins wired to the correct spots on the adapter.

There are various pad layouts for the LT1, depending on the generation. For some it might work (or can be adapted), for others it won’t.