WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

thank you Sir!
I agree, that is not where the O ring belongs

I need a tighter O ring, that is not being pushed by the bottom of the bezel
when that light gets back from passaround

on left is a stock Eye10 mcpcb and LED w a kaidomain reflector swap, on right I confirm an RRT-01 with Oring under the bezel

and the height difference of the kaidomain reflector

That .5mm saved by the smaller 1.5mm thick copper mcpcb would come in very handy in helping with that difference. :wink:
I checked last night 5 different jetbeam original mcpcb’s, some copper, some aluminum. All of mine measured right at 2.04mm in thickness measured with accurate Mitutoyo calipers. The 12mm copper mcpcb’s I recommended measured 1.5mm in thickness.

thanks for the refence shot w stock thickness mcpcb

and that makes sense,
the thinner mcpcb will narrow the gap

Apparently there were some changes to the threads, I have an old RRT-01 and I have two Astrolux S41S and one S41 and none of the battery tubes fits the thread of the RRT-01, unfortunately :frowning:

I tried the V10R ti extender with no luck. I have the V11R aluminum extender but I just don’t know where it is at the moment. :person_facepalming:
I think both extenders have the same threads though.

If your talking about the AP-05 AA extender, I have checked and it does not fit

thank you both :slight_smile:

I disassembled my last factory older RRT-01 today. While I was there, I measured the bottom shelf where the mcpcb sits.
The shelf measured 15.10mm in diameter. A 16mm mcpcb can be used if filed down to 15mm. If doing the KD reflector swap a mcpcb of 1.5mm thickness would be better to allow the bezel to screw down to almost factory position. A 14mm mcpcb in 1.5mm thickness would work best if you can source one.
This info is for the older original RRT-01 not the new model. :wink:
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You can find the 16mm x1.5mm mcpcb’s here.

I was not expecting the old RRT-01 to have a smaller shelf than the TC-R1, but there you have it… Thanks for the information moderator007.

After I get the supplies from KD to mod the TC-R1 to Nichia 219b, I am going to look for a 2016 RRT-01…

I didn’t bother to measure mine when I modded it last weekend, but 15mm was my “rough guess” for MCPCB size after I filed (and filed and filed) down my 16mm MCPCB. Thanks for taking the time to actually measure, and provide a reference here for others.

I need to get around to ordering that new reflector, and I’ll probably also change the centering ring, but then I need to find a better way of making 4040 centering rings. The last one I reamed out from 3535 and my fingertips were upset with me for days!

You were Right, again!

That was too easy, I just moved the O ring up to where it belongs, and Viola!

All is well, no more exposed O ring.
fwiw, that light has a kaidomain reflector and a non stock mcpcb installation. I dont know how thick, the mod done by a friend.

Installed, after sanding down, some glow gaskets from CRX

I hope night comes soon, so I can play in the dark

Man thats Nice! Holly Molly!

I just changed the optic on my triple sw45 from pink panda. It now has the narrow clear and is making 410 lumens on a 16340… it was 360 with the diffuse optic.

I really like the narrow clear.

I also added a touch of nyogel 767a to the control ring assembly, and then sealed it up with some blue locktite, after swapping the driver to one of the new 2019 RRT-01 drivers, that has strobe.

The ring feel is even nicer than before… can be fine tuned with one finger, but has enough damping that it wont move unintentionally.

There is still the slightest grinding feel of the detente ball moving in the track but the rotation is nice and smooth. The off detente is snappy too. I can really feel it lock in, and it takes an intentional effort to turn the dial on. Then it rotates nice and easy, without being too loose nor too tight.

Im super happy to be learning how to lube the control ring for a good “feel”, to my taste.

Major respect to pinkpanda for this triple sw45 Original RRT-01… what a beam!:slight_smile:

And thanks to CRX for the glow gaskets… I like the AcquaMan!

What a beautiful Light! thanks to all my friends on BLF for helping me get here

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I was thinking about this, from another thread:

Good idea!
fwiw, when pinkpanda built those triple RRT-01, he also modified the optics to fit the RRT-01 head opening, which is smaller than necessary to fit a stock optic.

Im not sure if pinkpanda also reduced the size of the triple mcpcb to fit… seems likely… he did a ton of work without mention of reward, out of kindness towards the BLF community

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I just stopped by mtn to see the size of the triple mcpcb, but I dont know yet what the size of the opening is in the head of the RRT-01

I note mtn also has spacers… wouldnt it be cool if one of them fit the RRT-01?:slight_smile:

maybe someone (pinkpanda or moderator007) will chime in with some measurements on spacer size for RRT-01, compared to what mtn offers

I dont mind doing a bit of sanding… lol

like I did to fit the glow gasket

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and for an encore, I would like to see trit slots through the fins of the Eye10 head. So that finned piece can be moved onto my PandaBuilt Triple sw45, Original RRT-01.
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Trits would be groovy… :wink:

I will need to take some measurements to double check the exact ID of the rrt-01 head but I’m sure the MTN spacers are too wide - 20.3mm. For reference the diameter will need to be the same as the reduced size of the mcpcb (roughly 15mm going by the comments above).

Edit - also I think Geuzzz was intending to remove the glass and use an unmodified optic for the ‘relatively simple mod’

This info is for the older RRT-01.
The inside of the head where the heatsink would fit measures .660”.
The height of the heat sink would need to be .295” if the factory lens is to be installed.
IMPORTANT
The height measurement for the heatsink is from the bottom of the led shelf. In all the RRT-01’s and TCR1’s I have seen there is a small cut out in the bottom of the shelf to fit the mcpcb that is smaller than the head opening where the heatsink would set. The bottom of the heatsink will not touch the bottom of the led shelf because of this extra little cut out where the mcpcb sets (a little lip). I bore all my triples out first and cut the extra lip of the bottom of the led shelf making it all flat before making the heatsink for good fitment.
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If you made the heatsink height smaller to account for the space where the heatsink is setting on the lip instead of the led shelf, it could still work allowing heat to travel to the head out the sides of the heatsink. It wouldn’t be as good as setting on the mcpcb shelf but it would probably still work.
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Without boring the shelf flat and getting rid of extra lip, the heatsink could be made with that extra lip cut into it. I don’t do it this way so I dont have any measurements to help with that.
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If you didn’t use the lens just add the lens height to the .295” heatsink measurement and that should take up the space.
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The bottom of the mcpcb shelf should be around .600” (15mm mcpcb with clearance). So that leaves .060 from my .660” head diameter measurement. That means the extra mcpcb shelf lip is about .030 in width. The top of the head where the reflector sets is actually bigger than where the heatsink would set. It has a lip at the mcpcb shelf and another about half way up the head where it increases in diameter at each lip. The top half of the head is bigger than the rest this allows the optic to fit with shaving.
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If you can make the right size heatsink, the optic and triple mcpcb can be filed down to fit. I filed the first one I made, the second one I cut on the lathe. Can’t really tell any difference, the lathe was just easier.

I measured the inside of the old rrt-01

A pic of the spacers I made -

Most of the heatsinking goes out the sides. The reason I made it that way is because I wanted to make the mod 100% reversible to stock. Rather than drilling another (5th) hole through the led shelf for routing the led wires I made a pocket under the spacer for the wires. This light is no hotrod so I wasn’t worried about the best possible heatsinking (I can’t see it making a huge difference anyway). Note - the height of this spacer is to suit the modified optics I did. I don’t know what height you would need to suit unmodified optics.

I measured the KD triple optic last night at .243” from the top down to where the legs would set on the mcpcb. That’s the total height installed not the actual height including the legs…
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On my heat sink, I drilled the triple mcpcb center hole half way thru the heatsink and then marked and drilled the wire holes from the mcpcb shelf at a angle towards the center hole I just drilled. Both wires run up at a angle and met in the middle. The heatsink sets flat on the mcpcb shelf.

Can you sell some of those pink panda?

Also interested

Sorry guys. That was a part of a run i did but won’t be doing again - Rolling wave of High CRI Triple or single N219b, or stock Jetbeam RRT-01 Rotaries

I heard on the grape vine that one is for sale but that is all i know.