What did you mod today?

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KawiBoy1428
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jon_slider wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
sweet mod! Thanks Thumbs Up
BlueSwordM wrote:
I have a feeling you really want an 18350 FW3A…

thats what he has now Smile
the novatac fits 18350, now that he got rid of the stock driver and signal spring


Yep..Vapcell 18350’s kick booty and it’s very dependable….never misfires, taken it apart hundreds of times, the retained style tail cap of the NovaTac is what the FW3A tail cap should have been…

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

MascaratumB
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
BlueSwordM wrote:
I have a feeling you really want an Ti/Cu 18350 FW3A

Fixed that for ya… Big Smile
Yes please Big Smile Innocent

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

vwpieces
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First of the year…
Bought this cheepie headlight from one of BigClive teardown vids on YT.

Pretty neat has the hand wave on off option. Other button is Hi, Lo & strobe.
Neat light for what it is and the 1200mAh lipo made it worth the $8.
Cut down a Noctigon XP 20mm, flowed a L1V2 4000K on it and put some real wires on the battery.
Nice light weight light and it will get used.

Yeah guess you need a beamshot too. Not a fan of a headlamp with a hot spot… might sand the clear lens to help diffuse the spot. But I just got it today…

Mike C
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vwpieces wrote:
First of the year…

Nice one! My kind of mod. Got a few hacked up and modded cheapo headlights myself.
Scallywag
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I learned I hate filing MCPCBs this weekend.


I decided somewhat recently that I wanted to swap a Luxeon V2 into my D25C Ti. So my D25C Ti had a filed-down Noctigon with XPL-Hi on it. At first, I kind of liked the extra little bit of throw I got out of the domeless emitter. But gradually, carrying the light every day, I started to dislike it. I wanted something with a bit more flood, while maintaining the consistent beam tint of a domeless emitter. Enter the Luxeon V2: this emitter has the same creamy tint throughout the entire beam. I got a pair in 4000K and in 5000K not too long ago from Led4Power, and finally got around to swapping it this weekend. So yesterday evening, I sat down and disassembled my D25C Ti. I unsoldered the leads from the Noctigon, and went to pull it out… and it didn’t budge. I looked closely, and there was a hard white adhesive peeking out from under the Noctigon around the edges. Great, I figured, thermal epoxy instead of paste. Installing the driver had been a PITA and I didn’t feel like popping it out and back in, so after a bit of misadventure trying to pry up the Noctigon, I threw in the towel. I went to solder the LED wires back on and… promptly broke the negative wire. Great, now I’ve done it. No extra slack. Even if I can’t remove the MCPCB, now I have to pull the driver anyway to replace the negative lead. So I unsoldered the driver from the pill and popped it out. I replaced both leads for good measure, because the positive wasn’t in great shape either. I also looked down into the pill and saw that there were four (4!) holes in the shelf. I had a plan, now. I grabbed one of my favorite poker tools and POW just slammed it right through that hole into the underside of the cursed glued Noctigon. It moved! I slammed the poker through the opposite hole and the other end moved too! I quickly flipped the pill around and extracted the Noctigon. I had done it! Now I couldn’t be too mad that I’d buggered up that negative wire. So I wire up my 16mm MCPCB with Luxeon V2 4000K and I slide the leads through the holes in the shelf and I smear some MX-4 on the shelf and… Well, I’d planned ahead. I had compared a 16mm MCPCB with the bezel of the light, and I’d even slid one part-way down with the head open and the reflector out, and it looked like a 16mm MCPCB would fit fine. Well, I hadn’t investigated thoroughly enough, and I learned the hard way that the inside of the pill gets just a bit narrower a few millimeters down from the bezel. I grabbed my files and got to work. A while later, I was getting close, only to realize there was also a narrow lip around the edge at the bottom, and that I’d need to clear that lip to get the MCPCB to lay flat on the shelf. But I got there. I finally got the MCPCB filed down enough and seated. I reinstalled the driver. I painstakingly cleaned the MCPCB of all flux (and then, of cotton Q-tip threads) and set it to dry out (isopropyl alcohol, so not long). I carefully probed for short-circuits with my DMM. When it was dry and I was convinced, I installed the head onto the battery tube and ran the light for a few minutes on high (33% of 6xAMC7135, so ~0.75A) and then stepped it up to “turbo” (just the full ~2.3A from 6×7135) to make sure nothing went wrong and nothing burned off inside the head. A smoke test, if you will – and I figured any isopropyl I hadn’t noticed would evaporate rapidly in that warm little environment.


Well, the beam is gorgeous now. I’m still not sure I would call it a flooder, because my Carclo quad/triple lights are a lot floodier, but the beam is definitely more useful for day-to-day tasks. I still has the punch to clear a parking lot easily, though. And just as with my favorite Luxeon V, the V2’s beam is remarkably consistent. I can’t see any tint-shift in any portion of the beam. I chose the 4000K, and I’d be surprised if it isn’t slightly below the BBL, because it’s picking up some pink tones on my cubicle wall now that I don’t recall noticing before. The reflector in the D25C suits this emitter quite well; I’m not noticing any artifacts or rings in the beam. It does help that it was designed for 3535 and that’s what I threw in there, but I didn’t try at all with the focus. I just used the original centering ring and popped everything together and it looks fantastic. I’m really happy with how this turned out.

I also decided, nearly as soon as I got it, that I wanted to swap out the cool white XM-L2 in my Jetbeam RRT-01. However, I wasn’t really sure what I wanted to put in its place. I’ve toyed with putting a triple-219B in there, as it’s popular, high CRI, and a lovely tint. But I don’t have any 219Bs, and I understand they’re getting a bit hard to find these days. I also don’t have the resources to make my own spacer so the optics fit right (being much shorter than the reflector). So I decided last night that I had a few Luxeon V spare, and the 16mm MCPCBs they were on looked about right, so I cracked open the (frustratingly glued) bezel and went to work.


First things first, the MCPCB in there was strange. It looked like a four-leaf clover, but with one of the leaves pulled, and the XM-L2 in the center. I didn’t take pictures last night, but maybe I’ll add one later. It didn’t look like there was a particularly good reason the MCPCB was shaped this way, especially the part about the missing fourth of the board. I unsoldered the (TINY! really small gauge here) leads and went to plop in my Luxeon V.


Well, you guessed it, 16mm wasn’t really even close. I filed on that thing for what felt like an hour before I got it into a size and shape to sit flush on the emitter shelf. And flush is kind of an embellishment here, because the shelf isn’t flat. It had some weird shallow circles cut into it, and the start of the wall seemed to begin to slope up at a rather shallow angle, so I almost installed the new MCPCB sitting on that slop a bit. But again, I eventually got it filed down and the fit was good. I then considered the centering ring. Whoops. The “centering ring” for the RRT-01 is actually this large, almost bowl-shaped thing that actually cups the bottom of the reflector. I was not sure how well the reflector would accomodate a replacement centering ring, but I also didn’t feel like reaming out a 3535 centering ring to fit the 4040 Luxeon V after all that filing. So instead, I just threw the 5050-sized reflector on the Luxeon V, pressed it down firmly, and torqued it like a stubborn lug-nut. The centering ring held in the rotated position, which also means the Luxeon V is centered inside it. I decided not to mess with it more, figuring I’d never get it better than that, and threw the reflector on it. Closed it up, checked for shorts, and fired it up.

Wow. So, I get why people have been ordering the Kaidomain reflectors. Aside from the hotspot, there are two large and distinct rings in the beam now. Occasionally when I first turn the light on, I won’t notice it, but moving the light even slightly immediately draws my eye to the rings. It looks like a bulls-eye, or a lyme disease rash. At least there’s no tint-shift in the beam, or the rings would be even worse. I’m glad this is not an XP-G3.


I also disassembled the heads of an IYP07 and Tool AAA. I’m planning to mod them for 10440 with FET drivers. On that note, has anyone disassembled the tails or have advice about doing so? I haven’t gotten too aggressive with the disassembly yet, but I’ll need to get it open because those cheap little springs will need some kind of bypass, even if it’s not likely to pull more then 3A.


P.S. Please forgive any dirty reflectors or lenses Facepalm  

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

MascaratumB
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Nice Wink
Can you post some beamshots comparing tints, please?
I’m thinking about putting one of these Luxeon V2 in my Tool AA V2.0 (with an eventual driver from MTN), but wanted to check how good it looks like!

Currently I have a Convoy T2 with a Luxeon V 4000K (Led4Power driver) and love it Wink

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

Scallywag
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MascaratumB wrote:
Nice Wink Can you post some beamshots comparing tints, please? I'm thinking about putting one of these Luxeon V2 in my Tool AA V2.0 (with an eventual driver from MTN), but wanted to check how good it looks like! Currently I have a Convoy T2 with a Luxeon V 4000K (Led4Power driver) and love it ;)

I may do that some night this week. I used 4000K V2 and 4000K Luxeon V (and I also have those in my D4), and the beam consistency and tint is the same to my eyes. Other than the rings on the RRT-01, but that's not the Luxeon V's fault. 

Unless you need CRI, you'll like the Luxeons. 

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

vwpieces
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Mike C wrote:
vwpieces wrote:
First of the year…
Nice one! My kind of mod. Got a few hacked up and modded cheapo headlights myself.

Liking this cheapo headlight a lot after 2 days. Wasn’t fully charged on day one but got a couple hours out of it on Hi. Was doing a lot of work, laying on my back, under a car the other day and it did not fall off. Clutch job on a 1968 Mercedes 220.
My H03 does not stay on my head laying under a car and that is really annoying to loose the light in the middle of a task with hands full. Not certain of the run time on Hi but it is a few hours, possibly 4 hours with the L1V2.

Wieselflinkpro
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Too much text to read…

Nev
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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
Too much text to read…

Have a break then come back to it, little & often is the way to go.
Scallywag
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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
Too much text to read…

That might be directed at me Facepalm
TL;DR for my post: Swapped emitters in D25C Ti and Jetbeam RRT-01. Copper dust everywhere. Luxeon V(2) is the best.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

e1000
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Swapped a 4300K (T6-4C) XM-L2 into a Olight S1R Turbo S. Super happy with the mod.

flightless22
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FW3A SST20 2700k with the black paint on the clip sanded off (220 – 1000 grit)

Convoy S2+ Triple BLF A6 Driver/LH351D 4000K with hand sanded J-Dub74 clip sent through a “rock tumbler” (Gatorade bottle + water + broken mug + variable speed hand drill contraception)

Empty Ultrafire A100 clone. First attempt at sanding/polishing on something cheap. Currently awaiting polishing materials. I guess ‘polishing a turd’ is applicable here.

djozz
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Tomorrow starts camping with the family so I hacked a lantern mod from a Supfire A6, an optic from a Philips household bulb, a perspex washer made to size, a Virens two-pad board, a 1800K 90 CRI Luminus Cube led and a 2×7135 biscotti driver.

I did not manage to finish it with a nice roof and hanging hook, that will have to wait till after the trip. It will do a good job already as it is. Smile

contactcr
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What no Anduril candle mode? Sad

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contactcr wrote:
What no Anduril candle mode? Sad

No arms, no chocolate.
No side switch, no anduril.
contactcr
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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
contactcr wrote:
What no Anduril candle mode? Sad
No arms, no chocolate. No side switch, no anduril.

You say that like its beyond djozz to frankencandle some switch on there. Love finds a way

djozz
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Candle mode would be appropriate but also a bit kitch, may as well bring a couple of those flickering coin cell led-tealights on vacation. (not the worst idea probably, the family would love that Facepalm )

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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
contactcr wrote:
What no Anduril candle mode? Sad
No arms, no chocolate. No side switch, no anduril.

FW3A? Wink

i42dk
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Did the “Skilhunt H03 mod”. New Lexel driver that runs Anduril. yay Love

While in the zone, I decided that the red indicator led in the button had to be changed (red = dead). went with a orange.
This had a rather hilarious outcome.

On the low setting the light draws 0,095mA
On the high setting the light draws 37,2mA LOL
And on ramping flor the 219C 4000K draws 1,74mA.

So yea, that orange 0603 led is hella bright, and hella inefficient at high.

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Some more Emisar D4 and D4v2 lego:

This is:

  • White Emisar D4 head and tailcap
  • Gold D4V2 bezel and body tube
  • Anduril UI with aux led control
  • Lexel bezel LED board with purple and blue LEDs
  • Rubber switch boot replaced with metal switch boot.
  • Emitters: 2× 4000K XPL HI and 2× 5000K XPL HI

Yokiamy
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i42dk wrote:
Did the “Skilhunt H03 mod”. New Lexel driver that runs Anduril. yay Love

While in the zone, I decided that the red indicator led in the button had to be changed (red = dead). went with a orange.
This had a rather hilarious outcome.

On the low setting the light draws 0,095mA
On the high setting the light draws 37,2mA LOL
And on ramping flor the 219C 4000K draws 1,74mA.

So yea, that orange 0603 led is hella bright, and hella inefficient at high.

I have used one orange switch LED in a S2+ and experienced the same, it drained a full charged cell (only slightly used a couple of times) in 4,5 months

  BLF

i42dk
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Yokiamy wrote:
I have used one orange switch LED in a S2+ and experienced the same, it drained a full charged cell (only slightly used a couple of times) in 4,5 months

Haha cool. Still way better than this. At 37mA it’ll drain it’s 3500mAh battery in four days Big Smile Facepalm

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vwpieces was a bit faster Silly
Today My post delivery guy brought be a glowing package. Inside was a cardbordbox with this cheap hedlamp. It was dam hot but not damaged.
I bought it to upgrade the light on my magnifying glasses. I build something jears ago out of a chap boost driver with a XPG and a tir. But the 2 AA batterys are empty fast. So i was searching for a new option. And this cheap one with internal battery is my victim. But because the led is something terribly white i cut a 20mm XP board to size and put my last 5000K LH351D on it.
Small notice for all that want to do this. On my light + and – are switched. Usually i measure it before soldering anything but this time not. So i had to desolder the board and reflow the led.
Not a huge amount of work but i could have prevented it. I will also add a diffusion film on the glass because i will use the light on very short distances.
First pic is the magnifying glasses i bought the light for. I also added a real leather cover on the headband a year ago.

I forgot to take a pic bevore i dissasembled the light Facepalm

Not often do i get glowing packages delivered

I did not expect to find a 1200mA battery. For about 5€ i expected something with 500 or 750mA.

Original the led is soldet to a aluminium MCPCB I have seen worse

And the front side

Now with a 90CRI LH351D on a Noctigon 20mm XP board thas was cut to size

And the front

Tomorrow i will have to grind a bit on the plastic holder to make it fit to my magnifying hadband
But the color is much better and because the die is bigger i now have a softer hotspot.

New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

contactcr
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D4v2 LED change

LH351D 2700K + 5000K 90CRI

3631K – 3882K Duv right around 0.0 w/ AR lens. In another post I measured the stock D4v2 lens vs a plain lens to increase the Duv by approx .001 (not bad compared to FW3A lens)

3,876lm at 0s (18.xx amps w/ VTC5D)



As expected fitting the wires back through the holes is tricky as well as neatly re-soldering the leads back on. Some of the insulation made a sacrifice on the positive wire. A plus is that most of the wires seemed like they had a bit of slack stuffed in the driver cavity.

pinkpanda3310
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Firelight2 wrote:
Some more Emisar D4 and D4v2 lego:

This is:

  • White Emisar D4 head and tailcap
  • Gold D4V2 bezel and body tube
  • Anduril UI with aux led control
  • Lexel bezel LED board with purple and blue LEDs
  • Rubber switch boot replaced with metal switch boot.
  • Emitters: 2× 4000K XPL HI and 2× 5000K XPL HI

Is the metal switch any more prone to pocket scorching?

 

djozz
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contactcr wrote:
D4v2 LED change

LH351D 2700K + 5000K 90CRI

3631K – 3882K Duv right around 0.0 w/ AR lens. In another post I measured the stock D4v2 lens vs a plain lens to increase the Duv by approx .001 (not bad compared to FW3A lens)

3,876lm at 0s (18.xx amps w/ VTC5D)



As expected fitting the wires back through the holes is tricky as well as neatly re-soldering the leads back on. Some of the insulation made a sacrifice on the positive wire. A plus is that most of the wires seemed like they had a bit of slack stuffed in the driver cavity.


Nice! That must have become an enormous goodlooking flood Cool
contactcr
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Especially during that minute or so of testing where you have it set up as a mule.

I was a little surprised though cause it seems less floody than my E2L triple 10507. That one has such a round defined hotspot you would think it was an aspheric lens but the quad doesn’t have that effect.

CRX
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Modified some old brass compression fittings.

Nev
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Do you need a spanner to change modes ?

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