FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Looks like you’re correct: FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public - #10889 by ToyKeeper

How did you remember that?

Anyway, I’ll edit my comment. Hopefully DarkShot sees it with all the the…“clutter”…going on :frowning:

Maybe he read the manual :wink:

:smiley: …. :+1:

OK … I’m ready to order FW3T TITANIUM / CU but I’m on the fence regarding emitter. What do you suggest?

Oops. Guess I should have RTFM, huh?

I need to remember to print some of those if I give any of these as gifts.

Ti/Cu. MSRP $95………

Contact M4D M4X for a discount code … :slight_smile:

$76.76

And now, for those that need or want it; a brief musical interlude.

Don’t need or want it…. pass on by. . :wink:
.

Holy moly, he’s got a great voice. Would have never known from watching him barking orders on show lol.

/\ Yep… that’s the truth. I was pleasantly shocked when I heard it the first time.

Pure gold. :+1:

Please point something out to a thicko like me , what’s the difference between party strobe & tactical strobe ? To me they are the same & the only difference is the tactical strobe is brighter , am I missing something?

Usually Tactical strobe alternates between 2 different rates, but on the FW3A Tactical seems to have a longer On pulse which is more irritating plus it is brighter. Party strobe has a short On pulse that can make things seem to move in slow motion and is not irritating.

I remember because I repeat myself a lot. I say how to do a factory reset pretty often.

Factory Reset
With light turned On, click 4 times to enter ramp config mode. At the prompts (fluttering light), respectively, click 1 time, then 21 times. If there is a 3rd prompt, click 7 times (this is seen when in stepped ramping mode).

My FW3A from the first batch died last night. I was using it at work (at pretty low power, below 350mA) and all the sudden it got stuck on, I could go above 350mA but now below.
I took it apart today and found one of the 7135’s completely shorted between output and GND (I did have to strip them all to find that).

Got it going again with another 7135 but I think for many that’s above the level they’d be able to diagnose / repair.

Not upset in the least, I jumped on the fw3a train from the beginning, I knew going in there could be problems early on. What’s odd is all the soldering looked great, no bridges or solder balls or anything that stood out, no excess flux, nothing… That one bad 7135 seemed to die internally with nothing triggering the failure other than use/time.

Again not a complaint, don’t even plan to contact Neal, just reporting here. All’s well again.

7135 chips do seem to have a reputation for dying recently. I wonder if the clones of a clone of an original chip are just getting worse and worse. We may have to step up to using the more expensive (couple of cents more) resistor/resistor bank designs instead of 7135 chips. Reliability should be better and there’s no upper voltage limit of around 7 to 8 volts.

Can we get the XP-L 7A for the new aluminum releases at least?

Thanks Jason , the party strobe is more irritating to me because it’s not bright enough, I can get both strobes to freeze a fan ,although I don’t think they’re stable (in frequency speed )because it needs adjusting now & again to keep it froozed.
Edit
It must be the 3 fans I’ve tried it on that’s not stable in speed.
Unless the frequency is changing slightly as the cell gets depleted or as the light heats up & cool ?

Ordered Ti/Cu, same discount code as Ti and in theTi drop down options. This one should hold up to my rough handling. BLFFW3T