FW3A Useful Information.....

Just for clarification, your not talking about using them on Turbo are you cabfrank??

On Turbo my XP-L HI starts stepping down at about 12 seconds.

It has also been calibrated.

Usually turbo for just a few seconds, probably not 12.

I just checked mine, and yeah, step down at about 12ish seconds. We’re probably calibrated similarly. I do have a LG HG2 in right now. Step down occurs later with a Samsung 35E. I like the slightly higher capacity, lower drain cells better for these lights. They do work well with both though.

/\ OK, thanks cabfrank. I like the higher capacity cells for the FW3A too. It does sound like ours are calibrated about the same…. :beer:

You got me thinking, and I just rechecked. Two of my lights, a XPL and a SST, do not step down that quickly. My other XPL does. I think I have to recalibrate that one, as it steps down before it seems very hot when starting from room temp. Of course when it has been on and is already warm, it gets hot on turbo quicker. I’m going to reset it tomorrow.

Sounds like a plan.

Hey, teach - recently received my FW3C and wanted to thank you for organizing this Useful Information into one compilation.
Well done :+1:
Thank you again,
OG

Click happy muggles! Gifted my son in law FW3A. My mistake.

Have had to reset the ramp ceiling a couple times for him and his itchy switch fingers.

He gave me the light to check and it was acting really strange in the ramp with different intensity levels.

I couldn’t get into any adjustment settings and really was thinking light had a real problem. Nope muggle had put it in muggle mode on his own.

I did not recognize muggle mode because I think he managed to change the levels in muggle also. I haven’t actually checked that yet.
After I exited muggle I did have to reset the ramp ceilings again though.

I may have to take his away. Funny my daughter never has a problem with hers. And I still love my 2.

Yeah, it’s too easy to get into configuration modes accidentally, in Anduril. IMO, they should be tricky to get into; but once you’re in, easy to configure. Okay, we’ll never get “easy to configure” in a complex UI. But, at least, it should be difficult to accidentally configure.

IIRC, a reset feature was recently added. It was difficult to do accidentally, because I think you had to hold the button when inserting a battery. Something like that. I think all the configuration menus should only be activated that way.

yeah i have done that once or twice, reconfigured something accidentally,
then have to wade through levels again (the most tedious config)

so i would sort of agree with that

also i can;t remember the muggle and lockout sequences, since i don;t do them much

wle

Ah, for the days when such lights connected by USB would allow for programmatic access, and a backup of settings. This way if the config ever got screwed up, you reset and simply reload your backup. :+1:

Thanks Teacher and all other contributors.

Just thinking

How to remove driver with pill and Led MCPCBs after unscrewing the driver retaining ring to be swapped with another FW3A/B/T?

I guess it is just by pushing the driver/pill/led MCPCP from head to tail direction or not that simple ?

I want to purchase a few extra FW3A drivers because I mod and break things often. I have FW3A comming soon in the mail so I am unfamiliar with how it works.
I am unable to find where to purchase the drivers directly.

Also, are there other drivers that are compatible? The drivers I have are only the click ON/OFF tail switches.

I dont know what type of switch the FW3A uses. Is it always connected with momentary clicking, or direct ON/OFF, or something else entirely.

You would have to go to Neal or Lumintop directly for this. The driver is eswitch (“direct on/off” = mechanical switch) and an unusual size and placement of the eswitch area since it is not connected via a wire like most eswitch drivers.

Wait, doesn’t FW3A Andúril already have a ‘factory reset’ option? I know a lot of Narsil lights have that. I don’t own a FW3A, so I can’t test.

I believe it does now, but the original FW3A’s don’t have it. I’m not sure if the ones shipping now have the updated firmware with the reset function. Probably, but get confirmation before ordering if it’s important to you.

Yes, Illumn has been checking and calibrating each light. This is an awesome and helpful thing for them to do, but it’d be really nice if the factory would do it instead.

In any case, that makes Illumn the best place to buy from, if you’re in their shipping area.

Not that simple. :slight_smile:

There is a ‘shelf’ between the driver and LED MCPCB. This light is not a ‘pill’ design.

Remove bezel, lens, and optic from head.

Unsolder red and black wires from LED MCPCB.

Remove LED MCPCB.

If you are swapping just the LEDs, you can leave the driver in place. Otherwise, remove driver ring and remove driver.

Clean the old thermal compound from the shelf and the MCPCB. Use a small amount of new thermal compound.

Be careful not to twist the red and black wires when reinstalling the optic/lens/bezel.

Here is a photo from CRX’s FW3A Mods & Teardown thread:

and thank you for that heads up… most helpful regarding this noob’s purchasing decision…

Thank you for great info. Is anyone able to help which emitters should I pick. What are the pro and cons between XP-L HI 3D , SST 20, Nichia 219c for this beast?

Would like to have high lumen, high cri (will this matter?), good flood with enough throw, and keep it low temperature. But I know I cannot have it all.
I don’t have any experience other than XP-G2 S3 with my Mecarmy SGN5.

What is the good balance for overall EDC around the house and night street walk?

I sure do like the xp-l HI 3d’s…brightest of the bunch, “least” heat…