Any chance for long tubes for this light? That would make it very very usable for long hikes.
Agreed, id be interested.
Can you send me the code for the diffuser?
I could not keep up with the news all the time, how Lexel’s driver is different to the former TA driver?
BTW, I just got mine delivered today, it is freaking good - it smacks the ROT66 by being much brighter than the numbers difference would suggest - I own both 4000K SST-20 of these.
Regarding tint, it is certainly FD2 tint, as it is slightly warmer than the FB4 ROT-66 and also rosier.
Long tube works on mine.
Crazy two headed beast.
I don’t know. I have not seen the driver. There are no pictures of it either.
These do look gorgeous - wish they had the blue at 4000K in stock. All they got in 4000K is sand and silver.
As usual with Astrolux, it's as clear as mud what's under the hood. Very tempted...
That is the high frequency PWM causing some of the components to oscillate and make audible noise. Pretty common.
When I ordered my blue 4000k on aug-3, it said in the cart "last one" so maybe it was really true.
This is also common. It doesn’t mean the PWM frequency is 4k hertz, though. I’m sure both lights are much higher. You see the lines in the video due to a combination of shutter speed and the particular duty cycle/pulse width.
If you use the long battery tube will the lumens go up?
I don’t think the lumens go up but oddly my first thought was that it seemed brighter. Probably just my eyes playing tricks on me.
They should go up a little simply because you’ll have less voltage sag. The extra springs and contacts might add a bit more resistance, but doubling the batteries should more than compensate.
I’m guessing you can pretty much maintain near max output until the batteries drain?
Maybe I should try with my other battery carrier.
I had to put the head on the tail cap end of the tube. Once I did that, I placed the other head and both lights worked.
You will not see those flickering lines for non-pwm lights even it is at 1/4000s camera shuttle speed.
1/4000s is not the pwm freq. It is only a setting that i usually use to capture lights with low pwm freq. From my experience, pwm effect is already visible through naked eyes @ 1/1250s, when there are a lot of beam movements. An oscilloscope is definitely needed for more accurate pwm readings.
I took some comparison shots of my MT18S vs my ROT66
Of course not. PWM by definition is a flicker. No PWM equals no flicker. This should be clear.
- Note that 100% duty cycle on any PWM channel is essentially a solid signal, so this means no flicker, at least in theory.
What are some examples of lights that don’t use PWM? I can’t think of any.
But I don’t think the MF01S or D18 are using “low” PWM freq. The D18 uses 15.6K frequency. This is quite high. The duty cycle you set the light to makes a big difference.
Let me ask, on your camera, I assume a dslr, does it take pictures at 1/4000s only, or does it record video at that shutter speed as well? Video is maybe 30 frames per second? Maybe the frame rate also plays a factor? IDK, it seems pretty complicated.
I just think of it as a combination of shutter speed, duty cycle of the light and how they might sync up that causes the camera to pick up the lines.