Well, all this talk about forcing the FW3A to take on aux LED’s… and I just got my GITD insert. Standard Green. VERY bright! I couldn’t get over how strong it is for the first 5 mins. Can even use as a moonlight mode. The GITD insert hangs on for a very long time as it wanes. Great step up from GITD tape on the inside wall. Still thinking I may give tritium vials a try. Drill in some grooves across the GITD insert. The way it fits under the optic, there’s quite a bit of clearance so you wouldn’t need to drill deep enough to submerge the entire vial thickness.
Lexel board with green and pink led's, LDO and voltage monitor removed, 2kohm resistor.
High is still a bit bright but low is perfect and an added bonus is how it flashes one time low then the next high and so on (Idk if this is by design or not but it's cool as hell!)
Finally fixed my FW3A driver and added my Lexel Aux Board. I needed to replace the ATtiny85 chip after an unsuccessful flash. Thanks contactcr for the assistance! I was able to flash the chip by itself and then re-flow it onto the driver.
The Blue/Green one is on all the time
The “Fire” one can be on, off, or blinking.
Shrunk the FW3A battery tube (FW3A18350)
and I need to make it even shorter… 
Wow. I dreamed about 18350 FW3A…
Much like the Astrolux S43 has 18350 and 18650 tubes, I would also like to have an 18350 tube for the FW3A. Sometimes that little extra savings in length can make a nice difference. It’s a HUGE difference on the S43.
Can you get 18350s with decent capacity?
There are real 1100-1150 mAh cells from multiple rewrappers.
That’s not bad. I probably wouldn’t mind a shorty tube.
While not short enough for an 18350 you might be able to fit in a 18500.
Looks great!
Yep 18500 fit…… now the 18350 fits with a longer tail cap spring or stretch the stock spring… small as I could go with out getting into the taper of the body…
Maybe you could shorten the tailcap a bit?
No, it works fine with a longer BlueSword spring…2025lm is enough in this little guy… 
I thought about cutting into the taper…making it shorter but the same diameter as the straight shank of the stock body… then a sharper angle…re-taper to blend it, but then it would be bare aluminum and I would have to blast and polish it and use it on one of my 2 bare aluminum FW3’s… I wanted to see how it looked as a stock color… maybe on the next one…
Obsess much, KB? 
Man that 18350 tube/light looks great! I want one!
Making contact is one thing, shortening the light as much as possible is another. 
IMHO you have the most awesome FW3A on the planet already but maybe it’s possible to improve it still?
Maybe you could alternatively reduce taper depth?
Only with options… got to have a plan “B” maybe even a plan “C”
That would of been plan “B”…If I would of screwed up…….
I got a copper FW3C with working secodaries from JC,plus i have the normal CW version
The aux LED do ramp up/down, when put alongside my CW FW3 there isnt a lot of difference lumen wise but the tint is different due to LED swap