✌ FREEME - ASTROLUX MF01S 15000lm Flashlight Group Buy - ENDED

As far as I know, you get max turbo with a double click.

Thanks! My blue 4k is arriving tomorrow, only 11 days after I ordered it from BG.

Your focus seems to be quite narrow. There are many factors in choosing what battery is best for you. You seemed to be focused on performance. I rank performance pretty low in my list. Most folks don’t care at all about performance because they can’t see the tiny differences in lumens and if they have a device that measures lumens, they may not care about bragging rights.

Factors to include would be:
Quality
Price
Availability
Type (high drain or high capacity)
Performance

The Molicel is great, but it’s only sold at one or two stores from what I remember. We don’t know where Rock lives so he may not even be able to get it if he wanted. It’s also a bit on the expensive side.

I think the 30Q is a good choice for this light because they are high quality, relatively cheap, commonly available and have a good mix of performance and capacity.

You could squeeze out some more lumens with a higher drain cell like the P26A, but is that really important?

If your objective is the longest run time you can go with a higher capacity cell like Samsung 35E or LG MG1 for example.

It all depends on your needs. Just don’t use protected cells in this light as it will definitely hurt performance or may not work at all.

The only reason I would purchase an 18 led 15000 lumen light is for performance and looks. That’d be like buying a Ferrari and putting grabbers on it for longer tread life. Not that you shouldn’t, but really? Anything after 5000 lumens is pure luxury.

Also, are you seriously burning through your battery juice that much in one go? I’ve yet to burn through my batteries and I work 12 hr night shifts. I’ll take max blast just for the hell of it, runtimes schmuntimes.

This is my MT18S, it’s 4S1P no?

This is my MT09R which is 2S2P right?

High Amp cells not only give more output but also get more high output usable runtimes, the Samsung 25S beat all those cells mentioned above in terms of output according to lygte-info.dk btw

In stock settings:

When light is off - double click to max ramp, double click again for max output

When light is on - double click once for max output

(you can set the max ramp to 100%, this lets your light go to max output with only one double click from off)

It is 2S2P on the Mateminco and Astrolux. You have to look at the Driver-Side Batteryboard too.

It has nothing to say that the springs are positioned diagonaly and not next to each other like Haikelite makes it on their 2S2P carriers. For haikelite it is true, you can see the if its 2S2P or 4S1P on the position of the springs.

Here you can see the other PCB:

Ahh you’re right.

Can I charge cells that I will use in this light separately? I only have 2 slot chargers. Is there something I should be aware of if I charge the cells 2 at a time?

It does and the 20S is even higher current but the capacity is too small. The P26A I believe is the optimal performance/capacity 18650. It maintains higher voltage over other similar cells for the majority of the discharge curve, which makes it more useful for the entire runtime.

Jason mentioned Molicels might not be readily available. I’m not sure about the rest of the world, but it’s now easily purchasable within the US. Many shops imported the Molicels after Mooch rated them as the best all around 18650 and 21700. Illumn in California stocks them now and ships super fast. Though for the price, the 30Q is still a very good choice and probably one of the easiest to purchase.

I’ll mention flat-top Sony VTC6 and VTC5, and also flat-top LG HG2 appear to work well on the MF01S too.

I got my molicels from Illumn and they arrived super quick. I’m in duke city.

The Molicel’s are available at NKON.nl they are flathead but as samsung Q30 flathead works,in the FM01s, they will probably also?

Mine are flat heads and they work

P26A and P28A flat heads both work in the MF01S. However, I only have 2 of the P26A so I tried putting 2x P26A and P28A in it and only got 40 lumens more than Sony VTC6. But the VTC6 is already higher power than the Samsung 30Q so still not bad I guess. The P26A makes much more difference in the E07 per my test results above. The VTC6 therefore is also a good choice for the MF01S. I tested it at about average 400mah more capacity than the P26A, 3120mah vs 2720mah despite the P26A is only rated at 2600mah.

Is this directed at me because I said performance was a low priority in my opinion? I will assume it is.

Let me give an example to better illustrate my point. Let’s say you were wanting to buy a high-performance car. Would you buy car A that does 0 to 60 mph in 3.1 seconds or would you buy car B that does 0 to 60 mph in 3.2 seconds?

Keep in mind these are factory ratings and in the real world the acceleration will vary based on driver experience, the road surface, tire temperature, whether there’s a full tank of gas or not, etc.

Would you buy the faster car A even though it cost 20% more, would take an extra six months to be delivered, was not quite as comfortable as the other car all for the bragging rights of being one tenth of a second faster?

It seems kind of silly doesn’t it?

Back to this flashlight, does this mean those interested in maximum performance will be buying the 6500K xp-g3 version because it is the brightest? Maybe, but I have a feeling some may put color temp as more important than max performance.

Is everyone buying the black version because it can shed heat the fastest and have the highest sustainable output? Maybe, but I have the feeling some may put aesthetics as more important than max performance.

When it comes right down to battery choice, does it really matter if one battery gives you 500 more lumen than another battery when you can’t even see it with your eyes? Our eyes probably couldn’t even see the difference between 14k and 15k lumen in side by side lights. The only way you would know which is which is to measure them in an integrating sphere.

I could even make a case that you don’t want maximum performance. In trying to squeeze out every last amp and lumen it’s quite possible you could burn up an led or damage the driver. If you are a skilled modder then it would be no big deal to fix it, but not everyone is a skilled modder.

Anyway, I hope I put some perspective on battery choice. Both Molicel P26A and P28A and 30Q are good choices. I hear the VTC6 tends to loose capacity quickly over time so that would not be a top choice in my opinion, but is probably no big deal. I think Rock will be just fine with his battery choice.

As long as you don’t pull the batteries out early, you should be fine. When batteries are used in parallel, like on the the MF01S, it’s important that the voltages are exactly the same. So let’s say your charger stops at exactly 4.19v. As long as both sets finish their charge, all 4 batteries will be at 4.19 volt and you are fine.

If you let 2 fully charge and pull 2 out early, at say 4.12 volt, then you put the 4.12 volt next to the 4.19 volt you will get a spark and 2 batteries will drain super fast and 2 batteries will charge up super fast as they try to equalize the voltage within a few seconds. This is bad for batteries and a bigger voltage difference may overheat a spring and collapse it. It just depends on how big the voltage difference is. 2 fully charged and 2 drained could be really bad. A difference of 0.01v or 0.02v should be no big deal.

So just let both groups of 2 batteries charge fully and you should be just fine.

It’s nice to hear that the Molicels are getting wider distribution. I’ll probably pick some up the next time I need to buy some 18650’s