Why not. BBL is a reference and something we get used for long (depending on someone’s age) because of filaments bulbs, but it’s not an absolute requirement.
Most people are so get used to it that deviations from BBL are noticeable but above, on, or below BBL are a matter of preferences.
BTW, The cosmic microwave background frequency spectrum is a perfect black body at 2725 K
I also don’t like overly rosy, but as SKV89 mentioned a reflector usually pushes up the duv so choosing a bin further below the bbl should hopefully balance it out. Either way, any 4500k under BBL is good with me.
What does that mean? lol
The ideal CCT is 2725k?
In for 20 of the Nichia 219c sm4050e 4000k
If you’re willing to sell some of the Yuji 5mm, I’d buy a few. 5600k if you got any.
Sorry don’t have any.
Are the sm4050e r9050 or r9080?
According to the datasheet, I see r9050. These are just the minimum values. It’s very possible to get a bin as nice as the r9080 
Fingers crossed.
My mistake, i meant between sm4050e and sm4070e
Thanks!
Hi,
I have some questions:
- May I know the unique pro/con of the sm4050e/sm4550e compared to the Nichia 219B 9080, SST-20 FD2, or other highly recommended emitters?
- What is the difference between the 2700K and 3000K? They are so close together, is there a difference that people could preference between these two?
- What do you guys rate your preference when choosing and LED? (TINT:CRI out of 100) I am still learning about the importance of tint, so my preference is 60TINT:40CRI
- What are popular types of optics and how does each one affect the tint?
- How does current affect the tint?
- In relation to tint, What is the pro/con of a PWM driver compared to LINEAR driver?
I think I will purchase the top ~10 LEDs (including some “good CRI, bad tint” ones like SST-20 FB4) and put them all in a reference platform so I can finally end my misery.
I believe the 219C outputs more than the SST-20 95CRI, which is already noticeably brighter than the 219B. The 219C will likely have between 90 and 95CRI and R9 of 60 or so, whereas the SST-20 and 219B 9080 will have CRI of 95+ and R9 of 80+
Almost all of the warm or soft white led light bulbs I tested whether from Home Depot, Lowes, Costco, Ikea, are around 2700K. There is a noticeable difference between 2700K and 3000K
Tint 60/ CRI (R9) 40 is my preference too. Some of the 90CRI 219C and LH351D 4000K I’ve seen are so far above the BBL that everything looks lime color. yuck. R9 is more important than CRI because red rendering is most noticeable.
Reflectors usually raises tint more than optics. I have a 4000K 5A XHP70CRI that is super rosy without reflector and looked super yellowish with reflector, probably bumped it up by duv of +0.015 if not more. The MF01S SST-20 4000K without optics is super rosy also and with optic, it straddles the depending on current. I think the optic bumped up the DUV by about +0.007 if I remember correctly. This is the reason why I hope Azhu can source some 4070E instead of 4050E to ensure even with reflector and optic, it will not go above BBL.
Most emitters get rosier with higher current. SST-20 tint varies the most.
PWM can maintain the tint at different output levels. My TO46R with SST-20 has nearly the same tint at all output levels.
Man now I need to buy an MF01S with these rosy SST20s.
I thought the MacAdam ellipses were inclusive of all the preceding “quadrants”, i.e. sm4050e includes the bottom-right quadrant of sm403, sm4070e includes quadrants from sm4050e and the bottom-right quadrant of sm403. Or looking at it another way, the Rank defines how tight to the BBL the tint is. Is this correct? If so then sm4070e would not guarantee a significantly negative DUV but rather just increase the range of the potential tint further away from the BBL.
Hmmm good observation. You might be right… 
Put me down for 10 219C
I would be in for 10 219c
Put me down for 20 219C 4000K
Nichia 219c sm4050e 4000k - 10pcs
Please reserve
10pcs - Nichia 219c sm4050e 4000k
If it is 9080, I think ill get 20pcs