WTS/GB: NICHIA 219B NVSL219BT-V1 R9080 EMITTERS! sw45k, sw40, sw35, sw30

My mistake, i meant between sm4050e and sm4070e

Thanks!

Hi,

I have some questions:

  • May I know the unique pro/con of the sm4050e/sm4550e compared to the Nichia 219B 9080, SST-20 FD2, or other highly recommended emitters?
  • What is the difference between the 2700K and 3000K? They are so close together, is there a difference that people could preference between these two?
  • What do you guys rate your preference when choosing and LED? (TINT:CRI out of 100) I am still learning about the importance of tint, so my preference is 60TINT:40CRI
  • What are popular types of optics and how does each one affect the tint?
  • How does current affect the tint?
  • In relation to tint, What is the pro/con of a PWM driver compared to LINEAR driver?

I think I will purchase the top ~10 LEDs (including some “good CRI, bad tint” ones like SST-20 FB4) and put them all in a reference platform so I can finally end my misery.

I believe the 219C outputs more than the SST-20 95CRI, which is already noticeably brighter than the 219B. The 219C will likely have between 90 and 95CRI and R9 of 60 or so, whereas the SST-20 and 219B 9080 will have CRI of 95+ and R9 of 80+

Almost all of the warm or soft white led light bulbs I tested whether from Home Depot, Lowes, Costco, Ikea, are around 2700K. There is a noticeable difference between 2700K and 3000K

Tint 60/ CRI (R9) 40 is my preference too. Some of the 90CRI 219C and LH351D 4000K I’ve seen are so far above the BBL that everything looks lime color. yuck. R9 is more important than CRI because red rendering is most noticeable.

Reflectors usually raises tint more than optics. I have a 4000K 5A XHP70CRI that is super rosy without reflector and looked super yellowish with reflector, probably bumped it up by duv of +0.015 if not more. The MF01S SST-20 4000K without optics is super rosy also and with optic, it straddles the depending on current. I think the optic bumped up the DUV by about +0.007 if I remember correctly. This is the reason why I hope Azhu can source some 4070E instead of 4050E to ensure even with reflector and optic, it will not go above BBL.

Most emitters get rosier with higher current. SST-20 tint varies the most.

PWM can maintain the tint at different output levels. My TO46R with SST-20 has nearly the same tint at all output levels.

Man now I need to buy an MF01S with these rosy SST20s.

I thought the MacAdam ellipses were inclusive of all the preceding “quadrants”, i.e. sm4050e includes the bottom-right quadrant of sm403, sm4070e includes quadrants from sm4050e and the bottom-right quadrant of sm403. Or looking at it another way, the Rank defines how tight to the BBL the tint is. Is this correct? If so then sm4070e would not guarantee a significantly negative DUV but rather just increase the range of the potential tint further away from the BBL.

Hmmm good observation. You might be right… :frowning:

Put me down for 10 219C

I would be in for 10 219c

Put me down for 20 219C 4000K

Nichia 219c sm4050e 4000k - 10pcs

Please reserve

10pcs - Nichia 219c sm4050e 4000k

If it is 9080, I think ill get 20pcs

[Clemence]

I’m in for 20 sm40*0e.

Yup, like that.

Put me down for 20 x 219c 4500K :beer:

I’d be interested in 10 x sm4550e if they become available.

As per pm:

1× 219B-V1 sw40 R9080
4× 219C sw40 sm4050e

I’ll take 15x Nichia 219c sm4050e 4000k

azhu, I see you updated the OP - you’ve put me down for 219c 4000k but I’m only interested in 219c 4500k (if that happens).

Yes I saw your comment above so I added a note after your name (sm4550e)

I’m pretty sure we’ve never seen a 219C 4500K in a flashlight ever. Are you sure it’s even possible to source this? I realize it’s in the datasheet but sometimes finding these in the wild are like a unicorn.