WTS/GB: NICHIA 219B NVSL219BT-V1 R9080 EMITTERS! sw45k, sw40, sw35, sw30

Well that’s unfortunate

Datasheet might not be up to date.
I don’t know if spec are corrects but RovyVon : The Aurora A6 has a 4500K tint and a CRI of at least 90 thanks to the Nichia 219C R9050 LED.

There has never been 119C/219C 4500K R9050 since it was born and (soon) gone. If there was 4500K R9050, then I must have brought them to BLF. Unless there are special bin which is very unlikely to happen.

[Clemence]

If I’m not mistaken, the rank numbers just indicate a minimum CRI value, not maximum.

Ah I never thought of this because R8000 to R9050 is quite a difference. This is the beauty of having a Spectrophotometer :+1: :beer:
I really should start saving for one.

[Clemence]

For $250 I was able to get a used ColorMunki Photo. It is an entry level model that uses the same sensor as some of the higher X-Rite models. It also goes by the name i1Studio but that model generally costs a bit more. Given your location it may be harder to source a good price used one but worth looking at.

I know myself and 1 or 2 other forum members who use this hardware. I documented some of my early experience with it here and maukka was very helpful in his replies as well:

Thanks Contatcr =)

[Clemence]

I bought a modded light from Contactr and my measurements using the Sekonic C-800-U is pretty much the same as what he got with the ColorMunki Photo. I guess the only advantage of a portable dedicated spectrometer is that it is so easy to use and that it is portable and you can take it to your bedroom, living room, outdoors, to a store, etc.

Yes the downside is with mine you are tether to a device of some kind. PC/laptop/phone/tablet.

If you want something like the sekonic output you need $99 mobile app to get close.

It’s more of a color calibration tool stock but Argyll software brings that ambient sensor to life instead of Sekonic being portable and out of box suitable for ambient light.

Sorry, I meant, not guaranteed to be better than R8000. I guess you could buy a bunch, measure them, and bin them yourself.

I have the Xrite i1Display Pro. Is there any software or tricks I can use to utilize this device not just for monitor calibration?

You could probably get CCT but not any info about CRI since it’s a color meter not a spectral meter

How could I measure the CCT? Is there a way to do it with the i1Profiler?

You can actually hook up the ColorMunk/X-Rite devices to a phone and use ArgyllPRO to take measurements if you really want, but it’s $100 software and these devices are really not built to be used that way.

http://www.argyllcms.com/pro/

Put me down for 10 of the 4050e’s. Anything else coming along soon? I would rather pay shipping for more leds at a time than 10 of this and next week 10 of that…

Just trying to secure the 219b sw27/30 and 219c sm4050e at the moment. Other than those, I don’t have any other emitters coming along.

I’m interested in 10 pcs 219c sm4050e. What will be the price for them? Also, how much is international shipping?

I don’t have pricing on them just yet but my guess is around $3-4.
International shipping varies but you can PM me your shipping info for a quote.

That is my understanding.

However, it is also my understanding that most device manufacturers prioritize consistency versus a particular tint deviation, and if they are going to design to a specific tint deviation, they are likely to be conservative and prefer to stay close to the BBL.

Therefore, it is my assumption (but only an assumption), that emitters that are within 3 MacAdam steps of the BBL usually get sold in SM403 bins, meaning SM4050e bins should be less likely to contain SM403 emitters, and SM4070e bins should be less likely to contain SM4050e and SM403 emitters.

(1) Let me try a comparison table to help

219B SW45K 219C SM4050e* SST-20 FD2*
CRI 90 min 90 min 95 min
R9 Value 50 min 50 min No Spec
Ouput at 700ma 200 or 220 lm min 220 or 240 lm min 193 or 205 lm min
Tint at rated Current Very rosy Rosy?* Very slightly green to slightly rosy*
Tint at high currents Rosier Rosier? Rosier

* Most common bins (SM403, FB4 etc) have been reported to be slightly green

Based on BLF tests, it seems Luminus may be slightly more conservative than Nichia, so the output difference may be smaller than the specs suggest.

(2) There is a noticeable difference side-by-side. Not huge, but I definitely see the difference between the 3000K lights in my kitchen and the 2700K lights in my dining room.

(3) This really is a matter of preference to figure out on your own, but your attempt at balance makes sense

(4) Total Internal Reflection (TIR) optics seem to usually do a better job of smoothing tint out across the beam than reflectors. Reflectors usually produce a more defined hotspot and spill area that I find makes a versatile beam.

(5) As in the table, in many emitters, increasing the current tends to shift the tint to be rosier, but I don’t think this is universal to all emitter families.

(6) A PWM driver will have fairly consistent tint and efficiency within a single power channel. A current controlled driver will experience more tint variation, but should be more efficient at lower outputs.