FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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mattlward
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
mattlward wrote:
Just ordered my third FW3A… I have dropped 219b sw40’s in one, left the stock SST-20 4000k in one and will be either trying LH351D’s or SST-20 4000k FD2’s in the next. One thing I have noticed, I have the FW3A in the stock SST-20 and I have the D4V2 in the stock SST-20, they are not the same tint bin! The D4V2 is quite a bit more green/yellow at all output ranges. The FW3A SST-20 4000k actually does not look terrible when compared side by side with the Nichia 4000k sw40’s. So hats off to whomever sourced the current 4000k SST-20’s.

Also when changing led’s I am updating to the latest firmware. The solder work on the drivers is very good as the SOIC-8 clip attaches very well to the chip. The more I use and carry the FW3A, the more I love the light. It has replaced my Zebralight in my rotation. Runtime is great as long as one stays in the range of current regulated output and with the 219b version being my EDC, there is not much to be gained by going to FET drive anyway. The final result will be to determine the led’s I want to use in it and then I will order that good looking purple one and build it for EDC.

I am hoping to get a chance to do some tint comparisons with the above led’s, my NW Zebralight and my old standby XM footprint XM-L2 4C light.

Did you limit the FET on your FW3A 219B? I have the same LED’s on the way for my current FW3A running 219C’s from Kaidomain. It draws 9.1A on turbo with a fresh Samsung 35E cells. It should be safe for the odd turbo blast with the higher Vf 219B’s, right?

I am running TK’s firmware version for the 219’s. That should be the version you have installed already. It is great for those leds, I have not had problems with short bursts of turbo, no blueness after 20 seconds, but she does get hot! If you are using a glow gasket, I would suggest seating it as high up into the optic as possible and then a drop of glue to hold it off of the mcpcb. My worry was cooking the leds with the glow gasket. I have not taken the time to figure out how to get a current reading from all the contact points yet. I am going to put it on a bench supply and see what the head alone draws, but I can’t get much more than 10 amps out of my supply.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

mattlward
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So, I have 3 of these now. Once change that I have noticed thru the various manufacturing times is a change in the tail switch, and I do not like it! My very early one has a very tactile feel, activation takes a good click. The next one purchased has a softer switch and the latest is even softer. I have requested a replacement board for the last one, I think it has a problem in the little switch as it activated setting on the file cabinet without being touched. Yes, I did switch nubs and covers and it still happens. With the board in hand the switch is way to soft. I do not have any of the new ones with the retaining ring in the tail. And my oldest does not have the brass ring in the head, the existing ring is tough to remove and reinstall without it trying to cross thread.

All in all, the best BLF/TLF light to come along, IMHO.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

KevinZA1988
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I doubt it’s that version that limits the FET. It’s one of the 1st models that I ordered with XP-L HI 7A’s and they are in my FW3C now. I had Kaidomain 4000K 219C’s from a previous triple build that I’m running in my FW3A now. On a 30Q it gladly draws 14A on turbo. After continuous testing I couldn’t get the light to draw more than 9.1A with the 35E cells. That’s just over 3A per emitter, and that’s about as hard as I would push the 219B’s. Maybe I should just attempt to flash it if I burn one of the LED’s.

Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

mattlward
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For me, it was a no brainer to flash it. The bins and tints of the 219b’s that I am using are not in production and are limited in numbers. I would hate to burn one up at this point.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

Klayking
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From the tests that have been done, SST-20 emitters seem to be putting out only slightly more than half of the lumens that the XP-L HI emitters can in this light. I’m assuming this is because they are also on a limited power version of the firmware. How much is it limited again, 70% FET? Theoretically, could I squeeze a bit more light out of it with a modified version of Andúril (still less than 100% FET) without frying the emitters?

KevinZA1988
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I bought the XP-LHI 7A version, 1st batch, and swapped in SST-20 3000K LED’s from BlueSwordM a shirt while after. They lasted lots of turbo runs then I went over to Nichia 219C’s. I’m waiting for a SST-20 version from the factory, then I can test the turbo current on both.

Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

ToyKeeper
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Klayking wrote:
From the tests that have been done, SST-20 emitters seem to be putting out only slightly more than half of the lumens that the XP-L HI emitters can … I’m assuming this is because they are also on a limited power version of the firmware.

I don’t know for sure what firmware the SST-20 version uses, but I don’t think it’s limiting the FET. At least, I never sent Lumintop any firmware with a limit. The difference may be more related to the SST-20 high-CRI emitters simply being less efficient.

freq wrote:
does/will that firmware origin with you? – and reside (someday) in your reposit?

Yes. The last firmware I sent to Lumintop was this build:
http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-08-05.fw3a.hex

freq wrote:
expensive flatulence creation thru the magic of control voltage devices

It really has earned its reputation though, as a very expensive way to not make music. People dump in enough money to buy a new car, and then end up just using it to make self-generating ambient patches which either control themselves or are triggered by measuring the brain activity of house plants.

I get the appeal, since it really is enjoyable to make noise. It’s a rather zen meditative sort of experience. But a lot of people seem to be under the illusion that it’s something more than that, or that another piece of gear (rather than hard work and skill) will grant the power to make good music that other people will want to listen to.

Here’s one of the memes I see going around in synth communities:

thisnameisvalid
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Klayking wrote:
From the tests that have been done, SST-20 emitters seem to be putting out only slightly more than half of the lumens that the XP-L HI emitters can in this light. I’m assuming this is because they are also on a limited power version of the firmware. How much is it limited again, 70% FET? Theoretically, could I squeeze a bit more light out of it with a modified version of Andúril (still less than 100% FET) without frying the emitters?

I put J5 (highest high CRI) bin FD2 SST-20s in my XP-L HI FW3A (No FET limit) and got 1900 lumens otf

mattlward
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I would not think the SST-20’s would require any kind of restriction. I think that the difference in output is just the nature of the hi cri beast and just the limits of the particular led. My SST-20’s get the full on version and I have not cooked any yet, but I do get out of turbo when it is to hot to hold with my wimpy fingers! Smile

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

cabfrank
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I also think the difference comes down to just the emitters. The SST-20s are a great tint, but the lumen difference is definitely significant.

Klayking
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I see. Thanks for all the answers, folks. Smile

freq
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Yes. The last firmware I sent to Lumintop was this build: http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-08-05.fw3a.hex

ok, that answers that – glad I asked… a digikey order next… thx…

(off topic) and that meme – stop it, you’re killin’ me… tears in my eyes from laughing so hard (again) for reasons I won’t go into here… but yes, more blinking shiny furniture, please…

ToyKeeper
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freq wrote:
(off topic) … yes, more blinking shiny furniture, please…

I enjoy it, but I don’t expect anyone else to care about the noises I make. I have a Digitakt and a Blofeld and a keyboard… and I figure if I can’t make good music with that, no amount of gear would help. The main limiting factor isn’t my gear, but my skill. And that largely depends on how much time I put into it.

freq
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I enjoy it…

that’s all that matters…
tatasal
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Arrived today @ NEALSGADGETS

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Thanks for posting the pix. I’m anxious to get my order. Seeing the blue one, I wish I would have included one of those. I’m actually hoping a batch of “boring” black will be made. Then I have to order black and blue.

Enjoy the light show - LedTed

scosgt
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teacher wrote:
luckyeights wrote:
Even if you are to get it working with these instructions a reliable flashlight for every day use should not require constant adjusting especially new from the factory. Just by looking at how the inner tube is used for the switch and contacts with a bare contact point on the driver is cause for concern there is nothing pressing the driver into the tube like a spring to maintain proper contact from general wear. Simply unscrewing and re-screwing the head is going to wear that contact enough that it will not come into contact with the iner tube any more. If the tube was mounted on some sort of spring mechanism that compressed as you tightened it would be far more durable and robust. There is also no play, the head and tail tighten all the way down to the body so once it wears the only way you will be able to fix is to remove the driver retaining ring and driver and put a spacer in there behind the driver and reassemble. Tight tolerances as you say in this instance is bad, it invites unreliability which i do not want in a flashlight i rely on for daily use. If i pull a flashlight out of my pocket i expect it to turn on when i press the button consistently every time until the battery is dead.

If i have to mess with the tail cap and head all the time just to make it work it kind of defeats the purpose no ?

Facepalm Facepalm

It is not “if” you get it to work following the instructions. You will get it to work.

All due respect… the problem is not the FW3A, the problem is the man in your mirror…. you.

The light does not need redesigned according to your second guessing. The light is just fine as is.

So instead of moaning & groaning about the light, why don’t you just do what I & others have told you. Then yours light will work first time every time just like the rest of our lights do.

I have four (4) of them…. they all work first time every time. My four (4) are made exactly like yours, the only difference is you.

Complaining to Neal will not fix your lack of attention to this matter. Only you can “fix” that. Just do it & you will have a harmonious outcome that will beat complaining any day of the week….. Wink

EDIT: Again… follow these simple instructions step hy step & your FW3A’s will work just fine.

Many of us have had to do this with our FW3A’s, it is no big deal. Really, it’s not.
I did it to three (3) of mine….. once. No further issues after that. It only takes about a minute or two.

I know I am a little late to the party, but I discovered the real issue:
The driver board is sometimes not properly centered (this could be true of the board in the tailcap as well).
I had all the same issues and did all the steps several times.
The cure was to loosen the retaining ring on the head, CENTER the board by grabbing the spring with my needlenose pliers and getting it centered, and tightening it down. Since then, PERFECT.
Since the signal is carried in the tube, I am not certain if this was a bad contact issue, or more likely it was shorting out to the body through the ring. Whatever, this is the actual cure. All the other mechanations are probably just moving everything around until it somehow lines up.
Anyway, this is the issue when the light flickers screwing on the head (the flicker means there is indeed power) and the switch does nothing.
AND
If you crank it down too hard (your really don’t need to do that once everything is properly aligned) the easy way to get it apart is throw it into your freezer for about 5- 10 minutes, at which point it will unscrew with minimum effort (the metal contracts and it no longer grabs the shoulder).
Please, don’t ask me how I KNOW this works LOL.

scosgt
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I’ve heard that the hardware has had a revision in the most recent batch. Specifically it seems to have a retaining ring in the tail, and the nub has been replaced with a wider one. And a batch or two ago, they also switched to brass for the head retaining ring. These things should make it a bit more reliable.

Firmware also has been getting updated periodically. I think they have a version with factory reset now, but I’m not sure how long it’ll be before it’s actually shipped to anyone.

I got my copper yesterday. The ring in the head appears to be brass, and there is a ring in the tail. It is some kind of black metal.

scosgt
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And I ordered the purple one just because, Illumin shipped it out today.

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scosgt wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
I've heard that the hardware has had a revision in the most recent batch. Specifically it seems to have a retaining ring in the tail, and the nub has been replaced with a wider one. And a batch or two ago, they also switched to brass for the head retaining ring. These things should make it a bit more reliable. Firmware also has been getting updated periodically. I think they have a version with factory reset now, but I'm not sure how long it'll be before it's actually shipped to anyone.
I got my copper yesterday. The ring in the head appears to be brass, and there is a ring in the tail. It is some kind of black metal.

 

that's the latest version

got it from Amazon this week... 

 all new deals are posted here: 

deals.m4dm4x.com

ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will try to save you money!

delusional
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Is the newest Nubbin wider and thicker? We might need a new size drill bit to make new size nubbins.

Much Ado about Nubbin
I have not been posting for awhile, and thought I’d provide an update on my “nubbin situation” as if anybody cares.
The original orange gatorade replacement nubbin I made is still in the same FW3A. I just left it in there and it’s been fine.
On the first day I made it, I thought that the bottle-cap plastic may be too soft and it had deformed, but the nubbin just needed readjusted back into the correct position. I was thinking about making a nubbin from a rubber compound, but the plastic seems to be perfectly fine. Since then the light has been used in heavy rotation and I have had zero problems, of course always replacing the battery from the head.

Be thankful I didn’t hit you upside the cranium with a dozen extremely unfunny puns. In my post that got moved to the troubleshooting thread I had actually typed up possibilities and was attempting to work them into the post. Things like “Nubbin Lost, Nubbin Gained.” and “ True Knowledge Exists In Knowing You Know Nubbin.”. It was just too silly and in the end, I held myself down to only two puns! Consider yourself lucky.

ToyKeeper, I do not own any Synths, but I hear there’s nubbin better.

Woke up to this one day…

Good morning OCF&BD,
I’ve created a new disorder for you. OCF&BD
Obsessive Compulsive Flashlight & Battery Disorder – and of course, there is no known cure, because you keep recharging yourself.

ToyKeeper
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Yes, the new nub is wider. I haven’t gotten to see one yet, but Illumn took some apart to check for changes.

nobody
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delusional wrote:
Is the newest Nubbin wider and thicker? We might need a new size drill bit to make new size nubbins. Much Ado about Nubbin I have not been posting for awhile, and thought I’d provide an update on my “nubbin situation” as if anybody cares. The original orange gatorade replacement nubbin I made is still in the same FW3A. I just left it in there and it’s been fine. On the first day I made it, I thought that the bottle-cap plastic may be too soft and it had deformed, but the nubbin just needed readjusted back into the correct position. I was thinking about making a nubbin from a rubber compound, but the plastic seems to be perfectly fine. Since then the light has been used in heavy rotation and I have had zero problems, of course always replacing the battery from the head. Be thankful I didn’t hit you upside the cranium with a dozen extremely unfunny puns. In my post that got moved to the troubleshooting thread I had actually typed up possibilities and was attempting to work them into the post. Things like “Nubbin Lost, Nubbin Gained.” and “ True Knowledge Exists In Knowing You Know Nubbin.". It was just too silly and in the end, I held myself down to only two puns! Consider yourself lucky. ToyKeeper, I do not own any Synths, but I hear there's nubbin better.
I don’t know what you’re talking about — it means nubbin to me. 
M4D M4X
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Hello my dear friends!

this week i ordered a Lumintop FW3A from Amazon.de (reflink) and noticed many differences:

Overal both flashlights have same size and apperance (please ignore the blue button and the rubber cigar grip on my “V1”) but the “V2” (right) has a silver clip 
(note: the copper comes with silver clip too)

the V2 (right) has a bronce retaining ring in the head (silver in V1)

the V2 (left) has a black retaining ring in the tailcap (none/all loose in V1)

that black retainer in the tailcaps needs some space – thus the V2 (right!) has a shorter shoulder and the threads sit noticeable deeper… (the outer tailcap bodies are identically)

the inner tube of the V2 (left) has a much longer upper part then V1

V1 (left) uses a glas lens + carclo optic 
V2 (right) comes with Lumintops own optic (one pcs) 
-> i tested both optic setups vice versa in both lights and there is no difference in Lumen output!

all changes (i noticed so far) in one picture :

what did you notice?

 

 all new deals are posted here: 

deals.m4dm4x.com

ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will try to save you money!

freq
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M4D M4X… thank you for this very concise comparison with pics… so helpful… I’ve been waiting to see these differences… much appreciated…

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Thanks for detailed pictures! As far as I know the PCB should be a bit wider so that it is better centered.

Is the beam shape and throw also the same with both optics?

M4D M4X
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maybe 5% average more throw for the carclo

 all new deals are posted here: 

deals.m4dm4x.com

ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will try to save you money!

delusional
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I had specified that I would buy four FW3A’s in the pre-release list, but after I had big problems that turned out to be nubbin, I decided I would purchase only one at the cheaper price. In hindsight this was a mistake, but now I am quite happy to see the retaining ring in the tailcap, and plan to give FW3A’s for holiday gifts this year. I just couldn’t see giving a light to muggles with the nubbin falling out. It’s still only for adult muggles.

I hope the new design appears in the color-anodized versions soon.

Woke up to this one day…

Good morning OCF&BD,
I’ve created a new disorder for you. OCF&BD
Obsessive Compulsive Flashlight & Battery Disorder – and of course, there is no known cure, because you keep recharging yourself.

BOO5TED
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That’s funny because my FW3A I got from Neal has the silver clip, bronze ring in the head but no black retaining ring in the tail.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

byarnell05
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Does anyone know the size of O-ring that goes between the pocketclip and the tailcap? My Ti one I just received does not have one and the clip rotates too easily.

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